Finished XE236/242 install, now BIG problems...VIDEO WITHIN!!!
#16
I'm headed back to the shop today to readjust the valve lash and check the plug wire order. As far as I know, everything has been accounted for. Maybe I'll swap back on the stock 48mm and see if that helps for anything while I am at it...
I should also mention that the optispark is essentially brand new. As far as valve lash, I went less than 1/8th turn since I have Comp Rs. I'll be headed over there later this afternoon to recheck everything.
Anyone else? Thanks guys!
I should also mention that the optispark is essentially brand new. As far as valve lash, I went less than 1/8th turn since I have Comp Rs. I'll be headed over there later this afternoon to recheck everything.
Anyone else? Thanks guys!
#17
Originally posted by scoobysnax83
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There's no way you would get that much popping for a bad IAC motor or the fact that it has open headers. NO WAY IN HELL.....
.
There's no way you would get that much popping for a bad IAC motor or the fact that it has open headers. NO WAY IN HELL.....
im sorry
you dont know whayt your talking about. have you ever had one go bad and stuck all the way open.
i havent watched the vid but going by what he was describing that is exactlly what happen to us.
#18
Originally posted by 97Z-M6
im sorry
you dont know whayt your talking about. have you ever had one go bad and stuck all the way open.
i havent watched the vid but going by what he was describing that is exactlly what happen to us.
im sorry
you dont know whayt your talking about. have you ever had one go bad and stuck all the way open.
i havent watched the vid but going by what he was describing that is exactlly what happen to us.
It's possible, I guess (Can't really prove that it isn't) But from the popping only at idle and the way the car runs while revved, I call ignition problem, indexing of cam, opti installed wrong, or plug wires... Not necessarily checking in that order...
Edit: Also if thats the case, disconnect the damn thing. Even if its stuck all the way open disconnected, all you will get is a higher than normal idle.
Last edited by scoobysnax83; 05-25-2004 at 06:50 AM.
#19
Originally posted by a walker
He's using the 52mm, not the 58mm.
I wish I could help Joe, but without being there looking at the car, it could be a hundred different things. Did you make sure everything was plugged in, like sensors, etc.?
He's using the 52mm, not the 58mm.
I wish I could help Joe, but without being there looking at the car, it could be a hundred different things. Did you make sure everything was plugged in, like sensors, etc.?
Makes no difference, any HOlley TB needs major altering of the IAC tables.
BTW best way to adjust Comp R' lifters is when engine is up to temp adjust each rocker to zero lash while its idleing.
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Albuquerque,NM--5,600 feet above you sea-level cats
Posts: 440
Originally posted by T/A lt1
I would say missed a tooth on the cam when installing it or used the wrong tooth for timing (crank gear has several marks you could use) like I did a couple months ago.
I would say missed a tooth on the cam when installing it or used the wrong tooth for timing (crank gear has several marks you could use) like I did a couple months ago.
#23
if your running open headers and the O2 sims are right there the computer may be telling the motor something diff than it needs to do I.E more fuel and it may be loading up???? maybe when you mget exhaust fully instaled it may be better.......just a thought dude GOOD LUCK
#24
Originally posted by bski224
if your running open headers and the O2 sims are right there the computer may be telling the motor something diff than it needs to do I.E more fuel and it may be loading up???? maybe when you mget exhaust fully instaled it may be better.......just a thought dude GOOD LUCK
if your running open headers and the O2 sims are right there the computer may be telling the motor something diff than it needs to do I.E more fuel and it may be loading up???? maybe when you mget exhaust fully instaled it may be better.......just a thought dude GOOD LUCK
#25
Originally posted by bunker
Makes no difference, any HOlley TB needs major altering of the IAC tables.
BTW best way to adjust Comp R' lifters is when engine is up to temp adjust each rocker to zero lash while its idleing.
Makes no difference, any HOlley TB needs major altering of the IAC tables.
BTW best way to adjust Comp R' lifters is when engine is up to temp adjust each rocker to zero lash while its idleing.
-B
#26
in regards to what 97Z-M6 was talking about, that was MY car that had the bad IAC. i am a mech by trade and have taken extensive diagnostic and electrical component corses to learn about these cars. i too said their is no way that the IAC could couse that. my car was a new engine and run fine for the first week with open headers and no o2's. i put my exhoust on and wired the o2's up the car drove perect. then i went to crank it the next day it didnt idle at all. the only way it would run was if you floored it while cranking then after ir fires up it was flooding so bad the whole yard filled up with smoke in a few seconds. the it wouls eventually clear up a little. it wouldnt run at all under 1500 rpm until it warmed up and cleared out. it would then run good enough to drive but idled at 30mph. my IAC was stuck closed actually, not allowing enough air into the engine. while it was running like this it would pop and soud like it was hitting on about 2 cylinders. it sounded like a cross between a harly and a poping johny tractor.
i have slow dial uo so i'm ot about to watch the vid, but if what i described was your problem then i would check the IAC counts mine were 135-150.
someone mentiond the holley needs IAC adjustment, this may be the problem. throttle body's are easy to do change that and see what it does.
the way i understand it the comp. tells the IAC to move to a predeterminde point(from what the comp is programmed to do) and if the IAC is stuck the comp think your getting this amount of air but it really isnt, so it adds fuel for the amount of air it thinks your getting, cousing the car to run like crap.
thats what my problem was, hope yous is as simple.
i have slow dial uo so i'm ot about to watch the vid, but if what i described was your problem then i would check the IAC counts mine were 135-150.
someone mentiond the holley needs IAC adjustment, this may be the problem. throttle body's are easy to do change that and see what it does.
the way i understand it the comp. tells the IAC to move to a predeterminde point(from what the comp is programmed to do) and if the IAC is stuck the comp think your getting this amount of air but it really isnt, so it adds fuel for the amount of air it thinks your getting, cousing the car to run like crap.
thats what my problem was, hope yous is as simple.
#27
I installed the cam dot-to-dot with the dowel pin on the cam at 3 o'clock, just like everyone else. Is there still a way that the timing can be off? I don't see how...
Also, it does pop when it is moderately revved, but I haven't tried a WOT blast with it yet, for fear of something exploding.
I'm headed to the garage to check for the obvious (plug wires, etc.), and I'll be back. I'll also be sure to scan the IAC counts.
Thanks again!
Also, it does pop when it is moderately revved, but I haven't tried a WOT blast with it yet, for fear of something exploding.
I'm headed to the garage to check for the obvious (plug wires, etc.), and I'll be back. I'll also be sure to scan the IAC counts.
Thanks again!
#28
My car did the exact same thing when I started it for the first time after the cam install many years ago. The car would not hold idle unless the throttle was tipped in and it popped and sputtered. I had the vacuum line underneath the throttle body on the front of the intake manifold unplugged.
-Chris
-Chris
#29
Most common mistakes are misadjusted valves, wires on wrong, timing chain off a tooth.....or opti installed wrong(ie...instead of the pin being in the pin slot its in one of the clover leafs).