kirschman

Finally fired up new motor today and runs like crap! Motor; fresh bottom end,LE2 h/c,holley 58mm,#30svo's,pcmforless mail order tune. Car wont idle,pulled the plugs after bout 10 min. and they where dripping wet. When it gets below 1k rpm. it gets a violent "jerk", even makes a knocking noise. Its popping out the exhaust, you have to open the throttle to get it to start. I've borrowed a Tech2 scanner from a friend and got a p0154, replaced the O2, no light after 10 min. of feathering the gas but still runs the same. I'm not skilled with this scanner, can someone maybe tell me where to look at. TPS is .53, a/f was 14.1. All the plug wires are ran correctly,new plugs in and it wont fire on all 8 not even for a sec. It sounds like not in time. Tell me this, I had a machine shop build the bottom end and they degree'd the cam in. Should the cam be put in "staight up" and not degree'd?? During cranking it kinda hiccup's to. PLEASE HELP!! Rear O'2's are deleted, front 2 are reading from 50 all the way up to 900. Like I said, I'm not really sure how to take in all these readings the scanner is giving me, if someone could tell me what to look for I can give some more input.

CCCCCYA

Do you have the rockers too tight, hanging the valves open? How about the fuel pressure? Leave the vacuum line off to the regulator maybe?

Throwing out ideas...

Dave C.

kirschman

thanks for the ideas, keep em coming! Went through the valves twice, they should be ok, went 1/4 turn past zero. All vacuum lines are hooked up.

CCCCCYA

ok...

Hrmmm. I would start looking at ignition then. Wires good (as in not old and not arcing)? Ignition control module? Ground strap secure? good coil? Ignition connections secure (weatherPaks that is)? Is the opti good, or was it tweeked a little by accident when it was installed (cam dowel pin a little too long maybe)?

This all assumes that the cam is in there correctly. Sounds like it could be a tooth off though. No way to tell without minor sugery.

That's gonna be about all I've got to throw out for now.

Dave C.

1racerdude

If the cam has been moved from dot to dot then all the timing tables and fuel tables in the computer will have to be changed. If they degreed it to check if it was right and didn't move it it will be fine and only need a standard mail order tune to get it running.

DON'T run it with all that fuel in it 'cause it will ruin the rings.

Is the exhaust on it? Do you have the o2's in and simulators in the rear?

FastZinTennessee

I had a problem with similar issues to yours when I put my new motor in. Here's what all I did to fix:

Replaced 8 fouled plugs
Tested wires and found 6/8 showing infinite resistance-replaced all wires
Tested coil and it failed the test-replaced coil
Borrowed a timing light to make sure ignition was in time (my damper has timing marks)
Purged all the old fuel in my gas tank and replaced fuel filter
Re-adjusted rocker arms to zero lash plus 1/16-1/8 turn(comp R lifters)

At this point my car will start up and idle fine. The passenger bank is running pretty lean though, I think there is a leak between the head and intake manifold on that side. I'm going to have the intake milled to make sure it's sealing correctly.

Hope this helps.