Z95m6

He said he's at 383 rwhp. He had it dyno'ed at thunder racing if i remember correctly. I guess he just can't drive and thats why his mph sucks. I can't believe he was still in 3rd at the end of the track, i thought for sure he would of had to of been in 4th.

89TramsAmGTA

I see mid 12's in your future when you get your driving skills down and the car to hook up.

Sweetred95ta

I've run et streets with the stock rearend (3.73 Motives) and never had a problem. I babied mine out of the hole and pulled 1.85 60 fts. Crossing the traps in 3rd is insane. I'm afraid of having to shift to 5th in mine. Your times definitely will improve.

SS MPSTR

honestly missed that part...what gears were stock in an M6? 3.42's? Even with that gear, it should mph well above 110 with 380+rwhp IMO. His 60-foot really isn't that bad for no gear, tires or with his limited seat time in the car. I think my first time dragging the Z resulted in a 2.20 60-foot on RSA's.

SS RRR

You definately need gears. As long as you take into consideration that the 10-bolt is made out of glass when you launch you will be fine. Putting 15" DR's on your setup will break it just as easily.
Out of curiosity... is this heads/cam package "emissions legal/pass sniffer" if you were to have catyletic converters?

RealQuick

I race at sea level (New England Dragway) and I raced on two seperate days (two weeks apart). I made no changes to the car and ran consistent 111mph on one day and consistent 114mph the 2nd day. Weather plays a huge role as most of you know. It would help if we knew what the DA was the day the thread starter went to the track. BTW, my 114mph was with 368rwhp/336rwtq M6 w/3.73's.

Z-RATED94

bringBackCamaro, M6s are alot of fun but if your wanting lower ETs a real rearend with the right gears are your only option when it comes to traction. That and some of the other things the guys have mentioned. Where it say LE in your sig, does that mean the package as in H/C? Nice #s by the way. With a little work it will be test and tune only for you. Or the 5 or 6 point roll bar will be in order.

bringBackCamaro

Yes, the LE is Lloyd Elliot LE1 package, im still running 3.43 gears, and I do have some huge control arms, but no relocation brackets.

I also ran a 109mph in 4th, so it was right between 3rd and 4th when I got to the trap

March 11th is the next time they are having Test-N-Tune, so Ill take some of your advice and see If i can run better next month. (whats the differance with Trophy Test-N-Tune)

Right now figure I need a shift light, !front swaybar, relocation brackets, and alot of help on my technique

Also, are bolt on relocation brackets almost as good, (i dont know how to weld)

What else might you suggest

danhr

practice makes perfect.... You def have a mid-low 12 sec car....

def get rid of the front sway bar
did you bypass the coolant in the throttle body yet?
maybe pull out the spare tire/rear seats?

I'd start saving up for a new rear now.... a new rear and sticky tires will do wonders for you. I ran a 8.9 in the 1/8 on street tires, and my mickey's brought me down to a 8.5

Critter

man reading this got me bummed out i was hoping for mid 12's and i know your making more power than me

Z95m6

You have an auto though, that'll help out a bunch.

bringBackCamaro

OH, dont get bummed out, im a horrible horrible driver,

before the heads/cam i ran a best of 14.4 @ 96 mph with long tubes and all other mods

I picked up 1.35 sec and 14 mph with just LE1

I already pulled out spare tire/jack/rear seats/rear belts

I really wish I had an auto about now, infact im considering selling/parting out my car, and getting an auto LS1

Critter

whats your asking price?

buzz12586

Definetly pick up some Nitto DRs. They hook great but last a long time. Plus they will probably spin before you break the rear.

bringBackCamaro

I would ask 7,200 considering I just spent 2k on heads/cam

If i part it out, I could probably get 1500 for parts at least plus 6k for the car
Its got 71,850 miles on it, new dash, tires