blackztpi

i have a rougher idle like a miss in timing. i checked all vaccum hoses and we're ok there. It's still a little rough at idle. i'm hearing i should try and open the throttle body blades a bit. it sounds like a miss at idle. it's hard to take off from a stop without stalling the motor. once you dip the rpms a bit, it goes down fast. i can't describe it any better than a miss at idle. i still have the light clacking. it is coming from only one thing, like a stuck lifter or something. i have a code 43 which i think is being caused by the clacking. the knock sensor is probably picking that up.
That should cause it to go into closed loop "limp home mode" dumping in extra gas and pulling timing. it is running rich right now. i road tested the car and it drove well and ran well other than the code and the idle. i don't know if closed loop effects idle or not, but i have a feeling all my problems are relevant. I also have a code 84, which is some driver output thing i've never heard of. My "ABS inop" light wont go off either. it's on for some reason. no burnouts or anything, just easy driving. i need to get the code 43 off and the clicking stopped. i'll try some stuff i;ve used before for getting rid of struck lifters. help!

blackztpi

anybody?

romoranger

you have comp r's. continure to adjust them. i have a true lack of experience with them but lately they have fallen out of favor. adjusting them and keeping them adjusted just seems to be very difficult.

blackztpi

i guess i'll try to adjust it while its running.

blackztpi

update..... i tested the knock sensor in the block because of the code 43 and the sensor met requirements for voltage and ohms

Loadre

Try adjusting the valves yet? Only go about 1/8 turn on Comp Rs.

Adjust the Intake when the Exhaust is opening.
Adjust the Exhaust when the Intake closes.

blackztpi

i set them all twice. i use the #1TDC AND #6TDC theory. it works easier.

Loadre

True, but if your piston isn't truly at TDC then you have problems.

SStrokerAce

You tighten the Comp R's down as you are pulling up on the middle of the rocker... when they stop moving put a very slight part of a turn (like 1/12-1/16th) on them and they will be good to go, if you put more preload in them you will have a lot of problems.

It helps to have the motor up to full oil pressure before this.

Bret

blackztpi

so this is with the motor off? and when you say "when they stop moving" you are referring to the lifters???? i need some more detail on this please. lol thanx again bret. if you have'nt noticed, i am sixspeed042@sbcglobal.net. thanks again for the endless help. take that back, i gave u a 2 week break.

blackztpi

i adjusted the comp r's twice, both using the spin the pushrod method. i twisted the pushrod by hand until i started to feel it snug. i then tightened it a hair past and 1/8 of a turn. lets say i did it wrong with too much or too little preload, could it have hurt my lifters terminally from about 50 miles of driving with the clacking? i must add it ran damn good for being on closed loop for the code 43

SStrokerAce

NOT THE PUSHROD! The rocker arm... you adjust the polylock on top of the rocker till the rocker can't be picked up on the rocker stud. The pushrod will still spin at this point which is what you want, then you put a slight turn on the polylock (I MEAN SLIGHT!) and then lock the set screw down. Make sure those are tight as well.

If it sounds like a miss and you have everything on the intake plugged in or plugged then check the ignition system.

Bret

blackztpi

?? i was describing the way i adjusted them. using the spinning the pushrod deal until you start to feel it get snug. then go an 1/8 of a turn from there.
I'll give it a shot the new way.

SStrokerAce

The rocker will be tight before the pushrod will be so do it that way.

Bret

blackztpi

bret, i adjusted them the way you stated. i can completely rock the rockers that are at TDC. i can pull the tip off the pushrud and off the valve. way too loose. ???