Forged piston question
#31
Re: Forged piston question
You need to come up with a budget. If you post that and give us an idea of how you plan to use the car you might get some good suggestions. Alternative is to post a goal (a certain power or performance level) and ask how much you need to spend and what you need to do to achieve it. I'd like to help but what you posted is pretty non-specific.
BTW - Wiseco is one of the very best piston manufacturers. But how did you decide on 20 over? You really can't decide on how much overbore, if any, is needed until the engine is torn down and the cylinder walls inspected. Horsepower gains are primarily the result of improvements in the induction system, or the use of a power-adder. The relatively small displacement increase from boring the block does little to change the power output of the motor.
Rich
BTW - Wiseco is one of the very best piston manufacturers. But how did you decide on 20 over? You really can't decide on how much overbore, if any, is needed until the engine is torn down and the cylinder walls inspected. Horsepower gains are primarily the result of improvements in the induction system, or the use of a power-adder. The relatively small displacement increase from boring the block does little to change the power output of the motor.
Rich
#32
Re: Forged piston question
well the place i was talking about earlier in the thread national speed said they would only bore it over 20 nothing more so i figured 20 over. and im thinking my budget will be about $3-$4000
#33
Re: Forged piston question
If the cylinders are in good shape, 10 over is better. It leaves more room for future rebuilds and a thicker cylinder is always better for ring seal. You won't know until it's torn down what it needs. The first thing to decide is does it even need to be rebuilt.
Is it using oil, is the oil pressure low, have you run a leak down or cranking compression test? If the answers are no, no, and yes and the test was good you may need a rebuild at all. Or once you get it apart you may find you just need a light hone and new rings. And so on. Ditto for the crank, rods, and pistons. You need to know what kind of shape the bottom end is in so you know what is needed. The money left can go into the top (power producing) end.
Rich
Is it using oil, is the oil pressure low, have you run a leak down or cranking compression test? If the answers are no, no, and yes and the test was good you may need a rebuild at all. Or once you get it apart you may find you just need a light hone and new rings. And so on. Ditto for the crank, rods, and pistons. You need to know what kind of shape the bottom end is in so you know what is needed. The money left can go into the top (power producing) end.
Rich
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