OK, one is supply, another return - and the third goes to a line running across the front of the motor to the passenger side - the EVAP line from what I understand. The EVAP connection is jumped from the third "fuel" line to the above mentioned small diameter line by a 1/4" rubber hose - which is all deteriorated and dried out.
Just want to make sure, this is just vacuum right? I will not see any fuel drippage, or pressure release if I remove the deteriorated piece to replace it?

 

Shouldn't be a problem. It is connected to your charcoal canister located by the rear wheel well on the driver's side. You can disconnect it and replace the rubber with no problem.

 

I was about to post about this as well. Does the "third fuel line" connect into the EVAP module on the intake? Does it connect on the top or bottom nipple? Then the other one goes into the throttle body? What is EVAP anyway?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Depends on the year how it is routed. On the OBD-I cars, the plastic line in the fuel bundle connects to the metal tube that wraps around the front of the engine, then to the lower connection on the solenoid. The top connection on the solenoid routes to the throttle body. On the OBD-II models, they added a vacuum detection switch on the line that goes to the bottom of the solenoid.

EVAP collects the hydrocarbon vapors that vent from the fuel tank, in a charcoal canister. Then, under certain operating conditions, the PCM opens the EVAP solenoid and vacuum pulls air through the charcoal, picking up the HC vapor, and pulls it into the intake manifold so it can be burned.

As usual, Shoebox has all the info available:

 

Mine is a 97 and apparently I am missing the number 11 and 12 in the pic along with 14. What will it affect not being hooked up?

 

I would think you would have been throwing a DTC. Curious to see who chimes in.

The car hasn't been converted to OBD I has it?

 

Without the vacuum switch being active, it would probably set P0441 and/or P1441. The first one sets if the vacuum switch is closed for more than 5 seconds when EVAP is purging, and the second one sets when the switch does not stay closed when the EVAP is not purging. If you tried to jumper the pins in the connector, it would be in the wrong state during non-purge.

 

Yes it has codes. The car has been modded and I just reinstalled the engine after a rebuild. I still have it in the air. It is going Friday for a dynotune and I was wondering if I need to hurry and get those parts. I guess the dealer is the only place for those pieces.