WeirdRich

Ok heres my story. Went out and blew my motor at the beginning of summer...oh damn, had to build a stroker .

Money was a concern, so Im skimping on some stuff at the moment, with future plans of upgrading. Heres the list...

Forged Eagle Crank
Forged Eagle 6" H Beam Rods
Forged -16CC Inverted Dome Pistons
Milodon Splayed Main Caps
CC306 Cam w/ springs to match
Crane Gold 1.6 RR's
BBK 58MM TB
K&N Intake (FIPK)
Aftermarket MAF Ends
Borla Cat Back Exhaust
160* Stat
CSR Electric WP
LT4 Knock Module
MadZ28 Tune

So stock heads, headers (I know...sucks dont it), injectors, fuel pump, etc. etc. etc... Its kinda hard being 17 and working off my budget......

So question is....what will I be looking at as far as HP, Torque and 1/4 mile are concerned? Ive searched all over the forums but really havnt found a setup similar to mine... Guesses are welcome!!!!

Also, tips for a beginner are welcome as well. I dont have the exoerience that most of you do as far as what to expect when assembling the shortblock and etc... (yup, doing it myself....dont try to talk me out of it, lol) If Im missing anything CRUCIAL, some tips would help as well.

Thanks in advance, I need all the help I can get!!!

Zigroid

don't get -16cc dish pistons. i have them and I'm looking at a max of 10.7:1 c/r. get something like 12 or 14.
Or get flat tops with 5cc valve reliefs, get a thick head gasket (like felpros), In the future for headwork keep the heads at or above 54cc, and with the CC306 you should still be able to run pump gas. All with around 12:1 c/r.

tips: do searches for dynamic compression ratio and quench. plan stuff out before you buy and listen to the big dogs here! Wish I did when I was buying parts for my build

89385formula

Is this stuff you already have? I would not skip the things you are skipping. If you haven't bought this stuff yet. I am gonna ask what your goals are for this engine. IMO you don't need Milodon Splayed caps, or a Eagle forged crank. Also, you can save some money by going with a scat I 4340 I beam...they are plenty strong for your needs. The crank...unless you plan on spraying a real big shot or boost...you could go with a Scat cast steel crank......that will save you a good amount of money too. Same thing applies for the splayed caps....converting to plain 4 bolt mains would be cheaper...but cheaper yet is just studding your 2 bolt mains. The MAF ends are not needed. Headers...are crutial..you need them..don't skip out on em...use the money that I have saved you to at least get some pascestter LT's. I am not trying to critique you here....but i think your build needs priority. Borla's are expensive...you would be better of running your stock exhaust, with headers and ORY and keeping the money from the borla for something else. Your gonna need the bigger injectors quickly because your stockers will most likely be maxed out. Think about it..otherwise you will be dissapointed when its together.

WeirdRich

Thats the list of stuff I already have. The reason I got it is because I got a good deal on it all, plus I have big plans for the future. Im talking crucial as in if I dont get it, the engine wont run. I dont care what my power output it, I just want to know what it is.

WeirdRich

So no guesses as to what power it will be making?

RamAir95TA

This isn't the way to go about building an engine.

brain

Ok, to be the first to actually answer the question, I will guess about 270 rwhp, maybe 300 rwtq. That should put you about a 13.5 - 13.9 @ around 100 mph or 102. Is the car an auto or m6? That will make a difference in both hp and performance. My guesses are with an auto. I'd say add about 20 for an M6. Unfortunately, you skimped on the parts you shouldn't have skimped on. The induction is the most important part of the build. FWIW, if you spent more than $850 on the rotating assembly, you spent too much, even with a deal. The forged crank is over kill, unless you plan on over 550 rwhp. I would have used a scat cast crank, some decent i-beam rods, and a lightweight cast piston (hyper if N/A, forged if nitrous or FI). The stock heads and manifolds are gonna hurt you BAD, especially with that cam. I picked up 40 rwhp from headers alone, and the added displacement (you did say stroker right?) is just gonna make the heads that much worse. You won't need to worry about the injectors until you get headers at least, nor the fuel pump. I wouldn't spray it though. I'm tempted to lower my guess even more, considering the dish on the pistons. Why so low? I guess you plan for a blower or turbo at some point? I would have said go with a flat top, and then used a larger head later on to reduce the compression. I'm not an engine builder though, so your choice may have been the right way. Also, I wouldn't have done the splayed caps unless you plan on having at least 500 rwhp. Again, I'm going from the book of, "put the money where the power is made." One of the instructors at SAM said that there is no power in the bottom end of a motor, its just needs to support the power the heads and cam make. Now, granted you can get into the details of coatings and whatnot, but unless you are building a motor like N20dave, or Mindgame, I don't think you need to worry about those things.

WeirdRich

Why not? This is a great way to begin building an engine. Im not done yet.

My only goal with building the bottom end like this is for strength. I have big plans for it...AFR 210-220 heads, big shot of nitrous, etc etc. I just put the money into parts that are harder to change later on. I'll buy heads and everything else this winter, but for now I wanted to build it so it would support the huge amount of power I plan on throwing at it. I understand that it wont be making anything huge at the moment....duh, but I dont want to rebuild the bottom end twice.

Im not gonna go and do what the normal retard does and just spread their small amount of money evenly throughout the engine. Im only 17, I have some time to save for heads, rear end, etc...

And about going with the dished pistons, I only did this because if I were to go flat top, I would be running about a 14:1 compression ratio. Thats not good.

1racerdude

Get flattops with 4CC's reliefs,"0" deck and 56CC heads with a 224/230@50 on a 108+4,.039 Felpro gaskets depending on the cam that will put ya way under the max DCR of 9.0 for pump gas,probably low 8's.Ain't a good way to make HP.

WeirdRich

Do you guys understand what "I already have the parts" means? How about telling me ways of improving my current set up without trying to waste more of my money.

1racerdude

Trying to,ya won't listen.

WeirdRich

I have already bought -16CC pistons.

WeirdRich

First off, may I ask how you come to this conclusion for the power it will be making? I mean, is there any knowledge in there or just guessing?
Second, its an M6 like the signature says.

hsyr

The stock heads are not going to kill you, just won't make anything awesome right now. I think the stock manifolds WILL kill your power output though! Save up a little more cash even for used uncoated LTs ($200 ish) . Then I would guess around ~360rwhp. But what do i know

WeirdRich

OMG THANK YOU FOR A SEMI POSITIVE POST!!! lol
Id be happy to buy some cheap manifolds if it well help out a bunch, any suggestions for brand our place to buy? Id go used as well if anyone has anything