GM 847 in a 383. Streetability questions within.
04-28-2004, 08:48 PM
#1
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Location: Kingsport, TN
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GM 847 in a 383. Streetability questions within.
Was recommended this cam for my 383. I don't want to lose a lot of driveability as it is an everyday driver. Anybody have an opinion on it? I would be using 1.6 rockers as well with a 2800-3000 stall a true duals with bullets. That is about the extent of loss of driveability that I want.
04-28-2004, 09:31 PM
#2
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With all the other stuff you have I would think it would work pretty well. A 383 would require a bigger cam just to give it that stock LT1 feel, and with a stall it should keep you out of the dead zone of the bigger cams. I'm assuming you have a good p&p job/aftermarket heads?
04-29-2004, 07:53 AM
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Running that set-up right now, no friveability problems whatsoever, and I'm running a mail order tune. Only surges occationally (in the right situation). it does drink the gas though around town, but gets right around 20 on the highway. I'm sure a dyno tune would help it out a little, but I havent had occation to (so its not bad at all).
I went to the track and in my full weight full optioned 97 WS6 T/A (even had the car seat still in place) I ran an 11.92 @ 115.4 mph (on a 1.72 60 foot).
On the street from stop light to stop light I have rarely been matched. And only then by a nitrous toting or heavily modded car.
I went to the track and in my full weight full optioned 97 WS6 T/A (even had the car seat still in place) I ran an 11.92 @ 115.4 mph (on a 1.72 60 foot).
On the street from stop light to stop light I have rarely been matched. And only then by a nitrous toting or heavily modded car.
04-29-2004, 03:29 PM
#8
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Originally posted by WS Sick
On the street from stop light to stop light I have rarely been matched. And only then by a nitrous toting or heavily modded car.
On the street from stop light to stop light I have rarely been matched. And only then by a nitrous toting or heavily modded car.
Thanks for your help guys.
04-29-2004, 05:16 PM
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Location: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
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Just a thought: I find it interesting that it doesn't cost any more for a small cam than a large cam and yet the bigger cams provide more HP, but at the expense (so I understand) of pushing the TQ and HP up the rev scale.
To me that just means that I am going to (more than likely) suffer drivability and put more strain on the bottom end, i.e, jeopardize the longevity.
On the other hand, I've seen engines, including my own with a little bitty cam spin a bearing with less than 7 grand on the clock.
What's it all about ralphie?
To me that just means that I am going to (more than likely) suffer drivability and put more strain on the bottom end, i.e, jeopardize the longevity.
On the other hand, I've seen engines, including my own with a little bitty cam spin a bearing with less than 7 grand on the clock.
What's it all about ralphie?
04-29-2004, 05:37 PM
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Originally posted by BUBBA
Just a thought: I find it interesting that it doesn't cost any more for a small cam than a large cam and yet the bigger cams provide more HP, but at the expense (so I understand) of pushing the TQ and HP up the rev scale.
To me that just means that I am going to (more than likely) suffer drivability and put more strain on the bottom end, i.e, jeopardize the longevity.
On the other hand, I've seen engines, including my own with a little bitty cam spin a bearing with less than 7 grand on the clock.
What's it all about ralphie?
Just a thought: I find it interesting that it doesn't cost any more for a small cam than a large cam and yet the bigger cams provide more HP, but at the expense (so I understand) of pushing the TQ and HP up the rev scale.
To me that just means that I am going to (more than likely) suffer drivability and put more strain on the bottom end, i.e, jeopardize the longevity.
On the other hand, I've seen engines, including my own with a little bitty cam spin a bearing with less than 7 grand on the clock.
What's it all about ralphie?
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