LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

gosh darn arp head studs!!!

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Old 02-07-2008, 09:47 PM
  #16  
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Unhappy bad news

Well I guess I was a little too quick to blame arp. I just assumed it was those damn studs.

I left out the drain plug for a few days. I let all the oil drip out. Ive been going into the garage a few times an evening and pumping the cooling system full of pressure and letting it sit. Well tonight I did that and Im getting a few drops of water out of the pan

So Im now hoping its just a head gasket. I only got this thing to 220 the other day before I was able to shut it down. I dont think that would blow a gasket.

So off with the heads. I guess Ill take them to a machine shop and have them water tested. Is there anything more than a visual inspection that I can do to check the block?

The bastard part of this is the R&R of heads in car with studs. I guess this is my chance to switch back to bolts, lol.
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Old 02-08-2008, 01:20 AM
  #17  
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It may have been a blown gasket that caused the overheating. Definitely have the heads pressure tested; especially on ported heads, hitting a water jacket can happen.

Avoid the Mr. Gasket head gaskets, they tend to have some gasket material stick to the packaging. Victor Reinz (available at NAPA) makes a reasonably priced .029 thick head gasket.
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:06 PM
  #18  
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Your right, pulling the heads off an F body with head studs sucks! Better off to go back together with a bolt kit. Make sure you have the heads checked out by a good shop. I have had good luck with Fel Pro 1074 head gaskets. Use either Permatex number 2 non hardening or ARP thread sealant and you will not have coolant leaking from your bolts or studs. Good luck
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Old 02-09-2008, 08:58 AM
  #19  
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Used bolts here, no problems. Sure glad I did now since I didnt really notice an issue with studs. I simply coated them with the permatex and torqued them down.
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Old 02-09-2008, 12:44 PM
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I have studs and have no leaks. It has to be the way there installed. How much different is this engine compared to any other (besides reversed cooling) that studs will leak.
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:01 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Josh'95Z28conv
Well I guess I was a little too quick to blame arp. I just assumed it was those damn studs.

I left out the drain plug for a few days. I let all the oil drip out. Ive been going into the garage a few times an evening and pumping the cooling system full of pressure and letting it sit. Well tonight I did that and Im getting a few drops of water out of the pan

So Im now hoping its just a head gasket. I only got this thing to 220 the other day before I was able to shut it down. I dont think that would blow a gasket.

So off with the heads. I guess Ill take them to a machine shop and have them water tested. Is there anything more than a visual inspection that I can do to check the block?

The bastard part of this is the R&R of heads in car with studs. I guess this is my chance to switch back to bolts, lol.
Josh,
who did your block work? maybe they went into the coolant jacket and its leaking?
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Old 03-13-2008, 06:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by AHARTZ28
Josh,
who did your block work? maybe they went into the coolant jacket and its leaking?
Victory Racing did the shortblock. Its all fine.

After I took everything apart I found that it was in fact the head studs. The threads were rusty, and a few had some rust up the stud. I expected to see water at the nuts, but instead it followed the head gasket to the lifter valley. After pressurizing the cooling system for an hour the head gaskets got wet at the lifter valley.

I think the problem was I took many peoples advice and used permatex #2 on the threads. That crap isnt even a thread sealant, its a gasket maker. When I took it apart there was no more permatex #2, it all washed away. I should have just waited a few more days and ordered the arp sealant.

Its back together with bolts and real thread sealant now, and Im daily driving it

ps: I plan on heading to the track tomorrow night. You run that car of yours yet?
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:45 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Josh'95Z28conv
Victory Racing did the shortblock. Its all fine.

After I took everything apart I found that it was in fact the head studs. The threads were rusty, and a few had some rust up the stud. I expected to see water at the nuts, but instead it followed the head gasket to the lifter valley. After pressurizing the cooling system for an hour the head gaskets got wet at the lifter valley.

I think the problem was I took many peoples advice and used permatex #2 on the threads. That crap isnt even a thread sealant, its a gasket maker. When I took it apart there was no more permatex #2, it all washed away. I should have just waited a few more days and ordered the arp sealant.

Its back together with bolts and real thread sealant now, and Im daily driving it

ps: I plan on heading to the track tomorrow night. You run that car of yours yet?
COOL thats good news! i am putting LT's on it saturday then gonna dyno tune at corys on the 30th then i will take it out and run it..
LMK what you run...
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