Green Coolant Vs. Orange
02-22-2003, 06:04 PM
#31
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Cleveland,OH
Posts: 1,335
Originally posted by JohnD
Perhaps I can contribute a little hard data to this discussion. I check the ph of my Dexcool about ever 3-6 mo. Fresh Dexcool mixed with distilled water has a ph of 8-9 (this is slightly alkaline, 7 is neutral). I notice that it gradually acidifies over time. I am told this is the radiator hoses curing process leaves residual sulfur and that they gradually acidify the water. Once the ph drops below 8 I add a little pure dexcool to bring it up to above 8 again. The stuff in my car continues to look like orang Coolaid so maybe I'm on to something here. Another test is to take a good digital DVM and put one lead on the block ground and another in the radiatir liquid. The resulting voltage should be under .5 volt. I notice this voltage rises as the liquid starts to acidify. I still change coolant at the 3 year mark just to be safe. I'm soon to change over to silicone hoses. It will be interesting to see if anything changes then.
Perhaps I can contribute a little hard data to this discussion. I check the ph of my Dexcool about ever 3-6 mo. Fresh Dexcool mixed with distilled water has a ph of 8-9 (this is slightly alkaline, 7 is neutral). I notice that it gradually acidifies over time. I am told this is the radiator hoses curing process leaves residual sulfur and that they gradually acidify the water. Once the ph drops below 8 I add a little pure dexcool to bring it up to above 8 again. The stuff in my car continues to look like orang Coolaid so maybe I'm on to something here. Another test is to take a good digital DVM and put one lead on the block ground and another in the radiatir liquid. The resulting voltage should be under .5 volt. I notice this voltage rises as the liquid starts to acidify. I still change coolant at the 3 year mark just to be safe. I'm soon to change over to silicone hoses. It will be interesting to see if anything changes then.
02-22-2003, 06:42 PM
#32
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 752
MY engine builder recomends DEX-COOL with cars that have aluminum radiators such as our F-bodys. As for the 100,000 mile claim I wouldnt trust it that long. I belive new corvettes come with platinum spark plugs that are good and do not need a tune up for 100,000 miles. However I would never wait that long for new plugs. I usually replace my plugs every 20,000 miles.
I will nto make a claim to what is better or the so called sludge problem with DeX-CooL. All I know is my own personal experience.
I have had dex-cool in my TA since it was new. As we were tearing it down to rebuild it to a 383 we drained the DEX-COOL out and it was nice and orange and absolutly no sludge or any deposits in the block or radiator. Ofcourse the car only had 35,000 miles on it when we tore it down. I will personally stick with DEX-COOL. the Green Stuff is old skool just like non-sythetic petrolium based engine oil.
DeX-COOL and Mobil One Synthetic
I will nto make a claim to what is better or the so called sludge problem with DeX-CooL. All I know is my own personal experience.
I have had dex-cool in my TA since it was new. As we were tearing it down to rebuild it to a 383 we drained the DEX-COOL out and it was nice and orange and absolutly no sludge or any deposits in the block or radiator. Ofcourse the car only had 35,000 miles on it when we tore it down. I will personally stick with DEX-COOL. the Green Stuff is old skool just like non-sythetic petrolium based engine oil.
DeX-COOL and Mobil One Synthetic
02-22-2003, 08:10 PM
#33
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
Posts: 8
Dexcool in 4 vehicles and no problems whatsoever.
My opinion on Dexcool...most of the critics cite nothing but rumor, 2nd hand BS from some wrench turner or even worse.
My wife's 95 Monte has Dexcool, 116k and the original water pump. The cooling system is as solid and clean as (changed every 60k miles) the day the car was brought home from the dealer.
My opinion on Dexcool...most of the critics cite nothing but rumor, 2nd hand BS from some wrench turner or even worse.
My wife's 95 Monte has Dexcool, 116k and the original water pump. The cooling system is as solid and clean as (changed every 60k miles) the day the car was brought home from the dealer.
02-23-2003, 01:56 AM
#35
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Dartmouth, MA
Posts: 334
I thought of other things like the radiator cap and the heater core but I replaced the radiator cap and the heater core shows no signs of being bad i.e: no coolant on my passenger floor, no coolant in engine compartment side firewall, etc. And the 2-3 times I flushed the heater core it worked fine for about a week but it got really cold during the day on a couple days and thats when it seemed to slowly produce less hot air till finally it was cool air. Dunno what else would produce those symptoms other than the coolant. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. I just wish it would be spring already.
02-23-2003, 02:03 AM
#36
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 2,201
Originally posted by SnkEatr
Holy Sheeyit man did you just tell a guy in MA to use straight water..... Do you want him to crack his block or blow out the freeze plugs???? Good thing he's smarter than the average bear.
Holy Sheeyit man did you just tell a guy in MA to use straight water..... Do you want him to crack his block or blow out the freeze plugs???? Good thing he's smarter than the average bear.
02-23-2003, 09:05 AM
#37
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Rosslyn, VA (originally fm Heber, CA)
Posts: 40
control value?
Just thinking about your issue..
You mentioned less hot air... Are you refering to less volume or less heat?
Is there a way to check the operationalability of the controls... could it be the values or any loose cables and such?
You mentioned less hot air... Are you refering to less volume or less heat?
Is there a way to check the operationalability of the controls... could it be the values or any loose cables and such?
Last edited by pasmado15; 02-23-2003 at 09:08 AM.
02-23-2003, 11:28 AM
#38
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: $#&!@$
Posts: 151
I have worked with mechanics before and a lot of times when they get a Chevy car with an antifreeze leak, and its a newer car, its most likely has something to do with DEX-COOL. What some people dont know is that it corrodes away the aluminum after time. Usually the gasket is the first thing to go. It is hard on the aluminum however and I do not recomend it unless your car absolutely requires it. I use the green stuff, never had problems. My parents bought a 02 Olds, used....when it hit 35k, sprung a leak, turned out to be a gasket on intake (most common thing ever with DEX-COOL). Goes to show, it really does get down to working on corroding that aluminum and eating away at that gasket wanting to leak. I dont trust the stuff, but if it required, not much you can do.
02-23-2003, 12:01 PM
#39
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Webberville, MI USA
Posts: 148
I'm familiar with the intake leak issue as well. It has nothing to do with the coolant and everything to do with an el-cheapo intake manifold gasket. DexCool is formulated to protect aluminum unlike the silicated coolants that just put a coating over it. If you have ever seen where aluminum contacts iorn on an engine that has had the "green stuff" in it, you would have seen the pitting and erosion from electolytic corrosion. You don't see that with DexCool.
Last edited by dave1w41; 02-23-2003 at 12:03 PM.
02-23-2003, 12:24 PM
#40
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Westport Island,Maine
Posts: 69
Mizz. Ive Been reading and I still cant figure out what is what. This is what i did. My 1995 LT1 Formula's heat quit at 33k miles. I attempted to flush it at home and just like you I got brown sludge.I flushed it twice and filled it with Prestone.I got heat and it works fine. I flushed it last winter in the cold. This summer I brought it to a A/C and Radiator shop to have it power flushed because of the possability of not getting it all out. The pros at the shop said that Dex Cool was **** and that they have replaced it with prestone on all of their custumers cars. I have had no problems with my heat since and the coolant is still bright green. I never changed my antifreeze when I grew up and I cant see why they came up with an alternate Antifreeze. Must have to do with Money.Change it to Prestone and your worries are over. Make sure they power flush it....Mark
02-23-2003, 08:56 PM
#42
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Rosslyn, VA (originally fm Heber, CA)
Posts: 40
volume & heat
There must be a way to check the temperature value's operation. SO no hot air from either the floor or any top vent, right?
Let me check the maintenance book.
Any ideas from other's... Seems the cause is not the type of coolant --- either type would transfer heat. It must be something else.
I'll be back
Let me check the maintenance book.
Any ideas from other's... Seems the cause is not the type of coolant --- either type would transfer heat. It must be something else.
I'll be back
02-23-2003, 09:05 PM
#43
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Rosslyn, VA (originally fm Heber, CA)
Posts: 40
per Clinton's 93-98 repair manual
No coolant flow thru heater core:
Restricted return inlet in water pump.
Heater hose collapsed or restricted.
Restricted heater core.
Restricted outlet in thermostat housing.
Intake manifold bypass hole in cylinder head restricted.
Faulty heater control valve.
Intake manifold coolant passage restricted.
Solutions: "remove restriction" ... or "replace hose, core, value, intake manifold---ouch.
Seems the key word is restrictive...
Keep us informed
Restricted return inlet in water pump.
Heater hose collapsed or restricted.
Restricted heater core.
Restricted outlet in thermostat housing.
Intake manifold bypass hole in cylinder head restricted.
Faulty heater control valve.
Intake manifold coolant passage restricted.
Solutions: "remove restriction" ... or "replace hose, core, value, intake manifold---ouch.
Seems the key word is restrictive...
Keep us informed
Last edited by pasmado15; 02-23-2003 at 10:05 PM.
02-23-2003, 10:01 PM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Winnipeg,MB,Canada
Posts: 388
I work at a gm dealer in Winnipeg, Manitoba the orange stuff
(dex-cool) breaks down before the 5yr period, we have had numweous vehicles coming in with poor heat problems due to heater cores being plugged because of this crap, if you can clean out the old heater core, either by taking it out or using a chemical coolant flush, do it and you can change the system to green. Their
is no problem if the green mixes with any residual dex, it just brings the overall life of the cooling system to a two year maintenance period. Gm has posted bulletins on the dex-cool for
the problems you are having, but on different vehicles.
Hope this helps.
(dex-cool) breaks down before the 5yr period, we have had numweous vehicles coming in with poor heat problems due to heater cores being plugged because of this crap, if you can clean out the old heater core, either by taking it out or using a chemical coolant flush, do it and you can change the system to green. Their
is no problem if the green mixes with any residual dex, it just brings the overall life of the cooling system to a two year maintenance period. Gm has posted bulletins on the dex-cool for
the problems you are having, but on different vehicles.
Hope this helps.
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