hard start when cold?
#1
hard start when cold?
my car takes a while to start when its first started after sitting for any longer then 20 minutes. But it starts right up if the car is started within 20 minutes of being started. By taking a while i mean, it has to turn over for about 5 sec before it starts. the problem seems to get worse with the lower amount of gas i have in the tank. I dont think its the feul pump cause i have no loss of power or any stuttering at all ones running. And the car doesnt have to be warm for the problem to go away. If its cold, and you start it, turn it off right away, and start it agian, it will start right up. Any ideas? This is a very consistent problem, its never started right up when cold for 8 months.
#2
Re: hard start when cold?
You're right and you're wrong about the fuel pump. The pump itself is pumping fine and gives you good pressure. But the bump assembly also has a check ball that helps maintain the fuel supply at the fuel rails for quick starting. Kind of like putting your finger on the end of a straw to keep it full of liguid. Only on the bottom instead of the top.
When the ball sticks or is held partly open by dirt, the fuel quickly drains away from the fuel rails. The longer it sits, the further the fuel runs away from the rails. This problem can be evidenced by putting a fuel pressure gage on the fuel rail. After the engine is shut down, you will see the fuel pressure drop pretty quickly compared to one that has a good check ball.
The tell tail sign of this problem is cycling power on and off but not cranking the engine several times before cranking the engine. Each time you do that, you power up the pump for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel lines. Once the fuel rails are pressurized and you then crank it, it starts right up. You may want to try the power cycling method to confirm the problem.
There are 2 other causes for this problem, both of which are unlikely in your case since they lead to poor drivability or poor fuel mileage or both. They could also lead to eventual crankcase dilution so if your oil is not contaminated with fuel, again those 2 causes are unlikely.
Sorry but the only fix that I know of is to replace the pump assembly. Even if it could be cleaned, you would still have to remove it and it would be foolish to be right there and not replace it. Oh yeah, if you do replace it, be sure to put a new sock on it, otherwise it may damage the new one and will probably void the warranty.
Now the fun begins.
When the ball sticks or is held partly open by dirt, the fuel quickly drains away from the fuel rails. The longer it sits, the further the fuel runs away from the rails. This problem can be evidenced by putting a fuel pressure gage on the fuel rail. After the engine is shut down, you will see the fuel pressure drop pretty quickly compared to one that has a good check ball.
The tell tail sign of this problem is cycling power on and off but not cranking the engine several times before cranking the engine. Each time you do that, you power up the pump for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel lines. Once the fuel rails are pressurized and you then crank it, it starts right up. You may want to try the power cycling method to confirm the problem.
There are 2 other causes for this problem, both of which are unlikely in your case since they lead to poor drivability or poor fuel mileage or both. They could also lead to eventual crankcase dilution so if your oil is not contaminated with fuel, again those 2 causes are unlikely.
Sorry but the only fix that I know of is to replace the pump assembly. Even if it could be cleaned, you would still have to remove it and it would be foolish to be right there and not replace it. Oh yeah, if you do replace it, be sure to put a new sock on it, otherwise it may damage the new one and will probably void the warranty.
Now the fun begins.
Last edited by Guest47904; 02-19-2006 at 07:25 AM.
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