Hard starting
#31
Originally posted by slopokrodrigez
Then I would say the tests are the only way to find out for sure.
Then I would say the tests are the only way to find out for sure.
#32
Originally posted by slopokrodrigez
Then I would say the tests are the only way to find out for sure.
Then I would say the tests are the only way to find out for sure.
#33
Yes, you have to remove the fuel rail- the fpr is under the cowl, its a pita just to put a gauge back there, and No, it's not very hard at all- Take the fuel lines and four screws off and pull off the fuel rails (carefully) with the injectors... after you unplug and label them, of course...
#36
Originally posted by z28poweredlt1
no i jsut went with oem becuase i'm an ac delco wholesale distributor and it was real cheap
no i jsut went with oem becuase i'm an ac delco wholesale distributor and it was real cheap
#37
Originally posted by scoobysnax83
well, atleast you have the access hole for when you want to upgrade later. So you can get stuff wholesale, ehh. Wanna make some friends.
well, atleast you have the access hole for when you want to upgrade later. So you can get stuff wholesale, ehh. Wanna make some friends.
#39
Originally posted by scoobysnax83
OMG, like the first 10 posts in this thread were full of such BS I was gritting my teeth reading it.... Slopok, thank you for ending the garbage..... Definitely FPR or Injectors
OMG, like the first 10 posts in this thread were full of such BS I was gritting my teeth reading it.... Slopok, thank you for ending the garbage..... Definitely FPR or Injectors
#41
my problem is similar (not trying to hijack thread )
1. the car, in general, takes around 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, much slower than other fbods i've owned/ridden. but it starts strong after that.
2. if the car sits in a 15min-1hour window, it will start very slow with low stumbling rpms followed by 15-20secs of high revs at 2000rpm. if i turn it off and try again, it's fine.
3. i've cleaned the tb, iac, replaced a slightly ripped intake elbow with a new 1LE, have nto yet replaced fuel filter
4. i notice that in the 'ON' position (when the pump primes with that whirring sound), the pressure is at ZERO. i read somewhere it should be at ~40psi? the guage shows pressure when driving though.
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THIS. please help
how do you check if the fpr is good/bad? something about a shraeder valve very noob @ fuel syst. thanks
Brian
1. the car, in general, takes around 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, much slower than other fbods i've owned/ridden. but it starts strong after that.
2. if the car sits in a 15min-1hour window, it will start very slow with low stumbling rpms followed by 15-20secs of high revs at 2000rpm. if i turn it off and try again, it's fine.
3. i've cleaned the tb, iac, replaced a slightly ripped intake elbow with a new 1LE, have nto yet replaced fuel filter
4. i notice that in the 'ON' position (when the pump primes with that whirring sound), the pressure is at ZERO. i read somewhere it should be at ~40psi? the guage shows pressure when driving though.
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THIS. please help
how do you check if the fpr is good/bad? something about a shraeder valve very noob @ fuel syst. thanks
Brian
#42
Originally posted by pvkn1ght
4. i notice that in the 'ON' position (when the pump primes with that whirring sound), the pressure is at ZERO. i read somewhere it should be at ~40psi? the guage shows pressure when driving though.
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THIS. please help
how do you check if the fpr is good/bad? something about a shraeder valve very noob @ fuel syst. thanks
Brian
4. i notice that in the 'ON' position (when the pump primes with that whirring sound), the pressure is at ZERO. i read somewhere it should be at ~40psi? the guage shows pressure when driving though.
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THIS. please help
how do you check if the fpr is good/bad? something about a shraeder valve very noob @ fuel syst. thanks
Brian
#43
Originally posted by slopokrodrigez
Then I would say the tests are the only way to find out for sure.
Then I would say the tests are the only way to find out for sure.
-Mark
#44
all that matters is that its fixed. Hey how much does a shop generally charge for cleaning injectors. And, would it be cheaper if I brought them in already off the fuel rail?
I'm thinking of doing it for the hell of it
I'm thinking of doing it for the hell of it