96LT1TX

Well the first 3 times I did my heads I installed without anything other than some locktite. I never had a head leak since doing this, but now I am using ARP head bolts and want to do it perfect. They say to get their own Moly based lube or use thread sealer. I am also reading to do the "stretch method" meaning tq to spec, then loosen, then do again.. I have 3 questions,
1: do I go in the order of tightening and tighten them all down and then back them all out and repeat?
2: is there any extra turn like on the stock head bolts (XX lb/ft + 60degree turn or whatever it is)?
3: how important is it to use arp moly lube over oil (I have tq specs for both given by ARP), or is something like threadlocker just as good as the moly lube?

thanks for reading

Javier97Z28

3 step torque, use some hi temp thread sealant like permatex, motor oil under the bolt heads, and I called it a day.

I did not retighten.

96LT1TX

3 step tq, meaning tq to 26, tq to XX(2nd tq spec) then do the extra turn? do I use the 2nd tq spec of stock or the 2nd tq spec given by ARP (and for oil tq spec or for moly lube?)

thanks for quick response!

METALBEAST

I am using the ARP head bolts on my LE2 heads. I used the ARP thread sealant. Torque the heads to 65 lb/fts. The torque specs are HIGHER using a permatex sealant according to ARP. I talked to a representative to confirm if this was the proper torque.

1racerdude

On ARP bolts use the specified torque and not the stretch/angle TTY method. There is no way to measure stretch on head bolts or studs,unless ya got my set up that I made from a Starett lab electronic test indicator. I don't think ARP will give ya stretch spec's for head studs.
I have always used ARP moly lube on the threads and heads of the bolts.
The threads need to be clean and retaped in the block and tightened at least twice. Ya pull them all down then loosen one at a time then retorque. That should be enough. They say to do it 4-5 times to seat the threads,but if ya were to do that I would use an old gasket for the seating process,then put the new ones on. The type of gasket for the thread seating doesn't matter.

That makes my wrist hurt.

Joe B

if you use permatex,(which I always use) use the number 2 non-hardning pliable sealant.......RTV silicone types make a mess inside the motor and bolt threads if you ever remove the bolts again...............Joe

shoebox

Don't ever use Loctite on head bolts.

96LT1TX

well, now I know. One shop once told me "your head is leaking because you didnt put any loctite on your head bolts" and that is why I do not go to shops anymore. It was my intake manifold that was leaking because I didnt put a full strip of gasket maker on the back. I did that once, and never will again.. what damage could I have caused doing this? (I now have new block and everything, but same cooling system)

thanks again

1racerdude

Loctite DOES make a pipe sealer. It is liquid Teflon and there are three kinds. One has regular locktite in it for firm hold,one is medium hold and one has no locktite in it. Ya have to read the tube to see which one ya have bought.
Locktite thread locker will make the bolts hard as hell to get out and if ya use their bearing mount ya won't get the bolts out till ya heat around the bolt to 300* which is hard to get there on head bolts. Soooo the head will be permanently attached.

METALBEAST

Yeah, I did not see where you said that. NEVER use loctite on head bolts. They go into the water jacket. Just order the ARP thread sealer from Summitt.

bowtiepwr

>yeah why pinch pennies now??? order their moly lube and their thread sealer (tip) I colored the cap on the moly lube since the tubes look a like... so I had quick reference when I applied the lube.

And the torque to yield is a 3 step tightning proceedure do not loosen these bolts! Once you torque them unless you are removing the bolts to replace them.

shoebox

I think they have been referring to the bolt stretching exercise that ARP recommends. This is not the regular TTY procedure.

one eyed willy

what is the part # for the lt1 head bolt kit?

lt4_transam

i spoke to arp about how to torque their head studs. they told me to use their moly and to torque it down in 3 steps 22degrees 44 degrees then go to 65 dergrees they told me to do this then to loosen them up one at a time and retorque them then once it was running to bring it up to norm op temp and let it cool overnight and one at a time loosen them and retorque them.

1racerdude

From ARP site



Using a Torque Wrench

If the stretch method cannot be used in a particular installation, and the fasteners must be installed by torque alone, there are certain factors that should be taken into account. ARP research has verified the following “rules” pertaining to use of a torque wrench:

1. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing.

2. The lubricant used is the main factor in determining friction, and therefore, the torque for a particular installation. Motor oil is a commonly used lubricant because of it’s ready availability. If less friction is desired in order to install the fasteners with less torque, special low friction lubricants are available. With special lubes, the required torque can be reduced as much as 20 to 30 percent. It is important to keep in mind that the reverse is also true. If the torque value has been specified for a particular fastener on the basis of low friction lube, installing the fastener with motor oil will result in insufficient preload; the torque has to be increased to compensate for the extra friction caused by the motor oil.

3. Surface finish is also important. For example, black oxide behaves differently than a polished fastener. It is therefore important to observe the torque recommendations supplied with each fastener.

NOTE: It is possible for even the most expensive of torque wrenches to lose accuracy. We have seen fluctuations of as much as ten (10) foot pounds of torque from wrench to wrench. Please have your torque wrench checked periodically for accuracy.