Header gaskets leaking...
11-16-2003, 09:54 AM
#31
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Location: Elk Grove Vlg, IL
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alright Im going back out to continue. Ill definately try the jack idea. And no I didnt unbolt the tensioner. Are you guys saying that I should jack the y pipe up? or are you saying use leverage and push it up and backwards? what would i lever it against?
11-16-2003, 10:42 AM
#32
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I figured out a way to lever the y pipe towards the rear, and was able to get the front bolt in from underneath, but now i just need to find somebody around here to hold the lever (peice of wood between y pipe and crossmember) while i put the rearmost bolt in and go from there
11-16-2003, 10:46 AM
#33
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but in reality, im only doing the drivers side right now and havent removed the alternator yet to get to the passenger side. The whole problem was that I wasnt aware of the fact that you can leave the end bolts in and just slide the gasket out, thats definately what ill be doing on the passenger side. Still cant move the tensioner though. Just put a socket on it and push up? doesnt seem to be working, i have a mechanic that lives next door so ill have him come over in a little bit if i cant get it off myself
11-16-2003, 11:18 AM
#34
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Originally posted by b-stevens
He replied to my email and said that he would use felpro or mr gasket and that he has the ones id need in stock. I think ill just go there and pick up a set, clear up a few things with him and get to installing them. Even if I go through a couple gasket sets it would still be cheaper than paying them for labor.
Im also going to ask him if he went through the proper heat cycles for the copper gaskets before installing them.
When I do it, how much should i torque the bolts to?
He replied to my email and said that he would use felpro or mr gasket and that he has the ones id need in stock. I think ill just go there and pick up a set, clear up a few things with him and get to installing them. Even if I go through a couple gasket sets it would still be cheaper than paying them for labor.
Im also going to ask him if he went through the proper heat cycles for the copper gaskets before installing them.
When I do it, how much should i torque the bolts to?
I, also, replaced the collector gaskets with copper ones at the same time. I'd be leary about using copper gaskets on Al heads, though. I'd be afraid of buggering the threaded holes in the head by overtightening them to the copper gasket's crushing point.
11-16-2003, 11:39 AM
#35
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to get the belt off. I forget which direction you have to pull the tensioner. I think u have to pull it down. (i can remember if its pull or push). put a socket on the big bolt in the center, then use a ratchet and some big rod (i used my jack handle) to make sure u have plenty of leverage and pull it down and slide the belt off.
second, when do the other side and keep the front and back bolts in, you will need to use a crow bar to give yourself enough room to drop the gasket in. (use headers and valve covers as the leverage places).
second, when do the other side and keep the front and back bolts in, you will need to use a crow bar to give yourself enough room to drop the gasket in. (use headers and valve covers as the leverage places).
11-16-2003, 12:49 PM
#36
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Originally posted by fozziez28
to get the belt off. I forget which direction you have to pull the tensioner. I think u have to pull it down. (i can remember if its pull or push). put a socket on the big bolt in the center, then use a ratchet and some big rod (i used my jack handle) to make sure u have plenty of leverage and pull it down and slide the belt off.
second, when do the other side and keep the front and back bolts in, you will need to use a crow bar to give yourself enough room to drop the gasket in. (use headers and valve covers as the leverage places).
to get the belt off. I forget which direction you have to pull the tensioner. I think u have to pull it down. (i can remember if its pull or push). put a socket on the big bolt in the center, then use a ratchet and some big rod (i used my jack handle) to make sure u have plenty of leverage and pull it down and slide the belt off.
second, when do the other side and keep the front and back bolts in, you will need to use a crow bar to give yourself enough room to drop the gasket in. (use headers and valve covers as the leverage places).
11-16-2003, 01:03 PM
#37
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Header Gasket Replacement on 94 Z28
Originally posted by b-stevens
Im kind of hesitant to start the other one now because i need the car tomorrow. I know most of you will think im crazy not thinking i have enough time, but i never would have guessed it would take me a day and a half for one gasket. But now i know better and how to do it
Im kind of hesitant to start the other one now because i need the car tomorrow. I know most of you will think im crazy not thinking i have enough time, but i never would have guessed it would take me a day and a half for one gasket. But now i know better and how to do it
11-16-2003, 01:15 PM
#38
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Re: Header Gasket Replacement on 94 Z28
Originally posted by JPSartre12
Understood. It took LTLHOMER and me the better part of a whole day to replace mine. The passenger side was worse than the driver-side by far. I had to lie across the engine with my knees on the radiator shroud and extend my left arm as far as it would go in order to start the rear bolt. That alone took the better part of an hour and a half to figure out.
Understood. It took LTLHOMER and me the better part of a whole day to replace mine. The passenger side was worse than the driver-side by far. I had to lie across the engine with my knees on the radiator shroud and extend my left arm as far as it would go in order to start the rear bolt. That alone took the better part of an hour and a half to figure out.
plus i dont want to start it because I mihgt not have all the tools i need. I'd have to go look down the street and in other peoples yards if I had to use them. "Excuse me, sir? Have you seen a ratchet lying in your yard, or perhaps lodged in your window? No? oh, well thanks anyways."
Last edited by b-stevens; 11-16-2003 at 01:18 PM.
11-16-2003, 06:42 PM
#40
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Location: Oklahoma
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Thats what I like to hear. you resulted to throwing stuff. I figured out the jack thing on friday when I realized i couldnt pull the damn header as hard as i could and thread in a bolt at the same time. The passenger isnt too bad either. i've done both sides a few times now. i think ive got it down pretty good now. A shop will rape you if u try to have them fix it. They wanted to charge me at least a $100 plus a gasket. I was like the hell with that. let us know how it turns out. -Michael
11-16-2003, 07:08 PM
#41
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yeah the shop i was going to tried to charge me somewhere around 180 plus the gaskets... **** that! Now I wish i would have installed my headers myself and just saved myself the 4 bills. I almost went through all the steps of reinstalling them anyways, good thing i didnt get around to disconnecting the y-pipe and all that
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