header install
#1
header install
hey guys...i have been a member here for a little while, haven't posted much though cause i've been doing a lot of reading and you guys know WAY more than i do, haha. but anyway, i know this has been asked and i know they come with general instructions, but i'm looking for tips and tricks for installing headers as easy as possible. i know its going to be a job and beer will be a necessity but any helpful pointers would be super! idk if it says it in my signature but i got a 97 ss and pacesetter headers with the emissions hookups and an ORY pipe. thanks!
#2
You might get more answers if you post in the exhaust section . Anyway, just finished my Kooks install, and I got some pointers. Make sure you have EVERYTHING before starting! And give yourself plenty of time. Make sure the y-pipe actually slips onto the headers (cuz mine gave me trouble and now I'm running straight headers for a week )
With emissions hookups, you WILL have to raise the engine for the passenger side. Not hard, just pull out the passenger side motor mount bolt and jack it up. Both headers should install from underneath. And soak every bolt and nut in PB Blaster, or you risk breaking them. I used PB Blaster liberally and didn't break a single one. And prepare to get your hands scratched up. What header bolts did you go with? Some have better clearance than others. I went with the ARP stainless and was using a 5/16" box end to tighten things up.
With emissions hookups, you WILL have to raise the engine for the passenger side. Not hard, just pull out the passenger side motor mount bolt and jack it up. Both headers should install from underneath. And soak every bolt and nut in PB Blaster, or you risk breaking them. I used PB Blaster liberally and didn't break a single one. And prepare to get your hands scratched up. What header bolts did you go with? Some have better clearance than others. I went with the ARP stainless and was using a 5/16" box end to tighten things up.
#4
get the front end as high in the air as you can because you will have to angle the headers to slip them in and pulling the motor mount bolts and lifting the engine a bit makes it ALOT easier. agree with the header bolts make sure you have some that you can get a box end or socket on or you will never get them tight enough. change your plugs and wires while you are at it.
#6
The easiest way to do headers on our cars is to drop out the front end and motor with it. That process takes about an hr or so and obviously your going to need access to a lift. If thats not an option then like the guy before me said you just have to be able to jack the motor up enough. I would also get plugs and wires (look into the over the valve cover kit it will keep the wires away from the header heat and make it much easier to work on in the future). Get locking header bolts as well, there like $45 but well worth it as they will save you from having to worry about always having to tighten them or in my case having one rattle loose.
#7
yeah i thought about putting it in the exhaust section but it seems to me like i'd get more responses in this section, haha. and i guess i don't know about the ARP bolts...where do you get them? and thanks for the tips so far guys!
#8
hey guys sorry for the hijack. quick question. my engine will be out soon, should I put my longtubes on then, or after the engine is back in? I dont know if the engine will go back in with the longtubes attached.
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