headers
#2
Wanna know the best?
www.stainlessworks.net
They are expensive, but well worth the money. If you are interested, I am a dealer and can give you a good deal.
Thanks
Jake
Cook Performance Engines www.cpengines.com 317-697-6061
www.stainlessworks.net
They are expensive, but well worth the money. If you are interested, I am a dealer and can give you a good deal.
Thanks
Jake
Cook Performance Engines www.cpengines.com 317-697-6061
#7
I have pacesetter coated headers. Very happy with them. They are long tubes by the way. Also the best gaskets I have came accross were the paper mr.gasket ones believe it or not. I've tryed the aluminum and copper ones and had bad luck with them.
#9
Fred's asking all the right questions here.
Things to look for:
Be aware, several versions offer varying degrees of spark plug access, installation difficulty and the ability to roast your stock wiring harness.
MAC's (Mid length) are known to have some of the smaller primaries and occasionally less than pristine looking welds but they offer some of the best spark plug access.
SLP's have good primary size and are stainless but roasted my wiring harness and spark plug boot on cylinder #5. Spark plug access was extremely limited on some cylinders.
Hooker Long tubes dragged on everything, even with stock springs(I took off my Eibachs JUST for these headers). On the plus side, spark plug access was decent and they made great power.
- Want every last bit of power, don't care if the headers drag on every tall ant, don't care if you have to fab up the "Y" pipe cuz no one makes a "one size fits" all/cheap Y pipe? Don't care if you have Catalytic converters? Then buy the hooker long tubes.
- Want something short of the long tubes and to get an included "Y" pipe(in most kits) and it should bolt up to your Cat/Off Road Pipe? Lots of choices, though I would suggest staying far away from SLP's version.
Things to look for:
- Thick flanges. They will help seal (and stay sealed) the headers to the head.
- Ground clearance
- Y Pipe included
- Bolts to stock cat
- If going long tube and you're going to daily drive, I would forego the 'coated' versions. The lowest points of the primaries/collectors will get dinged, exposing metal and the rust will begin there and grow up the headers.
Be aware, several versions offer varying degrees of spark plug access, installation difficulty and the ability to roast your stock wiring harness.
MAC's (Mid length) are known to have some of the smaller primaries and occasionally less than pristine looking welds but they offer some of the best spark plug access.
SLP's have good primary size and are stainless but roasted my wiring harness and spark plug boot on cylinder #5. Spark plug access was extremely limited on some cylinders.
Hooker Long tubes dragged on everything, even with stock springs(I took off my Eibachs JUST for these headers). On the plus side, spark plug access was decent and they made great power.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY: Dalton, GA: Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,026
What are your goals, and how much are you looking to spend?
If you decide to get longtubes, Kooks makes a very good header. When I bought mine a few years ago, the consensus seemed to be that they were the best long tube available for the LT1.
http://kookscustomheaders.com/
I got mine through Maryland Speed. I think they're a registered vendor here, but I'm not sure.
And what's up with the angry smileys? Are you already pissed at your LT1?
If you decide to get longtubes, Kooks makes a very good header. When I bought mine a few years ago, the consensus seemed to be that they were the best long tube available for the LT1.
http://kookscustomheaders.com/
I got mine through Maryland Speed. I think they're a registered vendor here, but I'm not sure.
And what's up with the angry smileys? Are you already pissed at your LT1?
Last edited by BTC; 11-03-2009 at 09:19 AM.
#11
headers
hey fred i think my emissions test has to meet an .18 or lower in carbon monoxide when i took it last year to get it smogged it failed i had a .20 in carbon monoxide,but now i have a 96 LT1 crate engine and my registration renewal is coming up so i have to get it smogged again but i hope it passed now.is a true dual exhaust good? and no my car isnt lowered all stock..thanks buddy!!
oh and bill naw im not pissed at my LT1 lol i just like using that smiley cuz im always a angry lil man lol im so hella happy with my LT1 thanks 4 looking out.
i am looking for the ones with the Best POWER i dont care the cost either!!!
oh and bill naw im not pissed at my LT1 lol i just like using that smiley cuz im always a angry lil man lol im so hella happy with my LT1 thanks 4 looking out.
i am looking for the ones with the Best POWER i dont care the cost either!!!
Last edited by 94Z28LS1toLT1; 11-03-2009 at 08:34 PM.
#12
Do you have to pass emissions every year? if it's coming up soon enough, I would wait and go with what you have now. Then go with a set of mid tubes if you need to pass emissions again next year.. otherwise long tubes all the way!
#14
If you have emissions inspection - do they do a visual inspection to see if all your emissions systems (EGR, AIR, EVAP) are intact? Do they check the location and number of cats? If you have aftermarket engine parts, do they look for the CARB-EO certification number?
Headers don't hurt what comes out of the tailpipe, at least not with a good tune and cats. But they are not emissions legal if they don't have all of the emissions connections in place, if they move the cat(s) or they change the number of cats.
What kind of headers you can run depends a lot on what your exact emissions procedures are. If you live in CA, its a lot different than living in mid-America rural areas.
Long tubes relocate the cats. They generally help with low end torque, so they are good for the street. But I've seen mid-lengths out-dyno a set of LT's on an LT1 track car, that only ran in the range of 5,000-7,500rpm at the track. Odd enough, when the engine went past the 900HP level the Hooker LT's regained the edge (and I put his cast-off, modified AS&M's on my 800HP setup). When he pushed it to 1,350 HP (no longer an LT1), he ran a set of 2" Lemons custom SS headers.
The answer as to what is "the best" is not a simple answer, and not the same for each specific application.
Headers don't hurt what comes out of the tailpipe, at least not with a good tune and cats. But they are not emissions legal if they don't have all of the emissions connections in place, if they move the cat(s) or they change the number of cats.
What kind of headers you can run depends a lot on what your exact emissions procedures are. If you live in CA, its a lot different than living in mid-America rural areas.
Long tubes relocate the cats. They generally help with low end torque, so they are good for the street. But I've seen mid-lengths out-dyno a set of LT's on an LT1 track car, that only ran in the range of 5,000-7,500rpm at the track. Odd enough, when the engine went past the 900HP level the Hooker LT's regained the edge (and I put his cast-off, modified AS&M's on my 800HP setup). When he pushed it to 1,350 HP (no longer an LT1), he ran a set of 2" Lemons custom SS headers.
The answer as to what is "the best" is not a simple answer, and not the same for each specific application.
#15
headers
naw they dont do any visual all they do is put something in the tailpipe and rev the gas to the RPM that the computer tells them to put it at. and i think thats its but im thinking about what u said and i want to go with the long tubes. i have a question fred if i get long tubes after they are installed will my engine lite come on right now i dont have an engine lite on and id like to keep it that way if its possible man, i appreciate what u told me thank u