LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

heads/BRE cam not right??

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Old 09-01-2006, 11:13 AM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by camzaro28
u say his is a bolt on car, full bolt on, or just some small stuff?
a near full bolton 6spd LS1 will trap 112-114. so if it was a close race i would think u are right where u should be.

edit: just read ur kill story thread. that car might trap 105-107. so, yeah i would say get to a dyno and see what u can find there.
He is running his car today if the ran holds off. I probably wont I have stock suspension and bald tires so yeah...His car will probably pull low 13's tonight at best and I'll let ya know.
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Old 09-01-2006, 12:28 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by Hark_z
He is running his car today if the ran holds off. I probably wont I have stock suspension and bald tires so yeah...His car will probably pull low 13's tonight at best and I'll let ya know.
Are you going to slip 'n slide errr moroso tonight? I'm going to try to go if its not raining.
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Old 09-01-2006, 01:21 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Are you going to slip 'n slide errr moroso tonight? I'm going to try to go if its not raining.
I take it he's local?
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Old 09-01-2006, 02:05 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
I take it he's local?
I didn't think so because Hark_z is from Missouri. I really didn't understand the statement speed_demon24 made.
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Old 09-01-2006, 04:27 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

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Old 09-01-2006, 04:58 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by Sweetred95ta
Did Tim do the tuning? If so, then the tuner is definitely reputable. He does all street tuning. He'll do dyno tuning, but prefers street tuning. Redline did the install, right? If so, then they're reputable also. Did they degree the cam? Where did the heads come from? Stock castings? 225 on the exhaust is a ton for a stock casting head at .600". I'd say get it to the track or on a dyno before you get too worried.
The problem with street tuning is you have no objective baseline to see exactly where you’re at. Done the street tuning thing in the past with a wideband 02 and someone tuning at different loads while driving, but except for scanning there is nothing to compare. I perfer to dyno tune for power/sorting out new combo's and street tuning for drivability.

Until you have the car sorted out on the dyno, I’m personally not a big fan of track diagnostics to find problems. If you had a baseline, a weather station, meticulous notes, exceptionally consistent driver and your very track savvy, then your fine. That’s all some people need, but they are much better mechanics/drivers than most of us and have a ton of racing experience.

Get your car dynoed with a wideband 02 to see exactly where you’re at. Post a dyno sheet as it would provide enough information to get an idea of where you’re at compared to comparable cars and information on how your car is performing by the shape of the curve and the 02 readings.

Anyone with experience reading dyno sheets many times can pick up problems with a quick glance.
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Old 09-02-2006, 02:40 AM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by Denny McLain
The problem with street tuning is you have no objective baseline to see exactly where you’re at. Done the street tuning thing in the past with a wideband 02 and someone tuning at different loads while driving, but except for scanning there is nothing to compare. I perfer to dyno tune for power/sorting out new combo's and street tuning for drivability.

Until you have the car sorted out on the dyno, I’m personally not a big fan of track diagnostics to find problems. If you had a baseline, a weather station, meticulous notes, exceptionally consistent driver and your very track savvy, then your fine. That’s all some people need, but they are much better mechanics/drivers than most of us and have a ton of racing experience.

Get your car dynoed with a wideband 02 to see exactly where you’re at. Post a dyno sheet as it would provide enough information to get an idea of where you’re at compared to comparable cars and information on how your car is performing by the shape of the curve and the 02 readings.

Anyone with experience reading dyno sheets many times can pick up problems with a quick glance.
A dyno tune is expensive

Today I did notice too things. My converter wouldnt lock..it was at 3k at 60mph and the needle was hovering and jumping slightly.

Other: My car has a gassy smeel to it. I believe I'm running rich.

Other: The longer I have driven my car since the cam the more chopppy the car gets. 2500 its fine, but once it hits 3k I dont know if it is backfiring or what but the exhaust pops and rumbles and I think Im losing performance there. (LT's,3'' Xpipe,3"true duals,dynomax bullets) The fuel cuts out consistently as well right between normal driving and WOT, every time. The tuner spent countless hrs because my PCM had a problem before and was cutting out because he didnt have the latest Tunercat software; he had to tune out the 'cooling/throttle postion sensor' code because the car was running lean before.

Last edited by Hark_z; 09-02-2006 at 02:42 AM.
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Old 09-02-2006, 11:10 AM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

[QUOTE=Hark_z]A dyno tune is expensive

QUOTE]

Cheap hp in my opinion and the only way you're ever going to get the true performance out of the expensive parts you already have.

Have a bud who races in the Texas Outlaw King of the Hill circuit. He’s got a big block Reher Morrison with two stages of nitrous in a second gen F-body. I'll hang with him between rounds and actually might end up helping at a couple of tracks as he's having problems with turnaround for next round.

He has a weather station, a data acquisition system that records cylinder temps and engine/drive train rpm (along with a bunch of other stuff), adjusts the valves after each run and checks the plugs looking for color and burn line after each run. He also has a log in which all the data is recorded that he can go back to at any time.

If you can do that………track tune it. If not, just spend the money on some dyno time and get the car sorted out. Best money you will ever spend. Just be sure to find someone who really knows what they are doing and will spend the time getting the car sorted out. And, three dyno runs isn’t sorting out a car.
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Old 09-02-2006, 11:17 AM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by Hark_z
A dyno tune is expensive

Other: My car has a gassy smeel to it. I believe I'm running rich.

Other: The longer I have driven my car since the cam the more chopppy the car gets. 2500 its fine, but once it hits 3k I dont know if it is backfiring or what but the exhaust pops and rumbles and I think Im losing performance there. (LT's,3'' Xpipe,3"true duals,dynomax bullets) The fuel cuts out consistently as well right between normal driving and WOT, every time. The tuner spent countless hrs because my PCM had a problem before and was cutting out because he didnt have the latest Tunercat software; he had to tune out the 'cooling/throttle postion sensor' code because the car was running lean before.
The operating conditons are that poor, the tune is screwed up, and you are questioning the heads/BRE cam as "not right"? You can't be serious.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:21 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

The tune is not at fault. I'm the one that did the work. The cam is on a 108lsa though. It's going to be choppy. I also think his friend will trap closer to 110+. But if it does not seen right, we will go through everything again. The injectors might need to be swapped out . They was at 50% dc @ 13:1 AFR...
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:29 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Believe me the cam and heads are fine... I think this is the stuff you picked up off of Kyle, so those parts are killer. Those are some of the best LT1 heads i've ever had on the bench EVER, they are in line with Lloyds LE3 stuff. You basically got a set of heads that were $3000 for a song, so spend that money you saved on them fixing the other issues in this setup. FWIW I've sent out cams with more overlap that mail order guys can get to idle fine.

The key here is to FIX all the issues that Injuneer highlighted, that's why the setup doesn't run properly.

You have an EXHAUST LEAK, I don't care how well the tuner thinks the tune is, it's going to not work because of that.

The mechanical parts of heads and cam here are not at fault. I would have run a Mr Gasket head gasket on that install. You also need to run VERY little preload with that cam, 1/8th of a turn or less. The setup might be noisy but it will work best there and not cause any problems.

Bret

Last edited by SStrokerAce; 09-02-2006 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 09-02-2006, 01:00 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by Hark_z
Thanks for the support. Yes Tim tuned it and Redline did the install. They are stock castings.

If the heads are the stock LT1 castings I wouldn't expect 11's from the car. Sounds like you have some minor issues to work out but for a bolt on and cam only car dosn't sound that far off. If you had a set of ported heads that would be a different story.

Edit: Sorry I now see they are ported.

Last edited by 97pontta; 09-02-2006 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 09-02-2006, 01:34 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by Injuneer
The operating conditons are that poor, the tune is screwed up, and you are questioning the heads/BRE cam as "not right"? You can't be serious.
It was first reaction after the swap to highlight the new cam and be hesistant. I can tell it most likely isnt a problem with the heads or Bret's work by now. I just hadnt vented when I titled the thread.
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Old 09-02-2006, 03:08 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Just get all the issues worked out and the car should fly. The parts are only part of it, tweaking everything is what gets you the results.

Bret
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Old 09-02-2006, 03:42 PM
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Re: heads/BRE cam not right??

Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Just get all the issues worked out and the car should fly. The parts are only part of it, tweaking everything is what gets you the results.

Bret
No kidding.......the easy part is buying parts, the hard part is making them work.
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