heads/BRE cam not right??
#31
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Believe me the cam and heads are fine... I think this is the stuff you picked up off of Kyle, so those parts are killer. Those are some of the best LT1 heads i've ever had on the bench EVER, they are in line with Lloyds LE3 stuff. You basically got a set of heads that were $3000 for a song, so spend that money you saved on them fixing the other issues in this setup. FWIW I've sent out cams with more overlap that mail order guys can get to idle fine.
The key here is to FIX all the issues that Injuneer highlighted, that's why the setup doesn't run properly.
You have an EXHAUST LEAK, I don't care how well the tuner thinks the tune is, it's going to not work because of that.
The mechanical parts of heads and cam here are not at fault. I would have run a Mr Gasket head gasket on that install. You also need to run VERY little preload with that cam, 1/8th of a turn or less. The setup might be noisy but it will work best there and not cause any problems.
Bret
The key here is to FIX all the issues that Injuneer highlighted, that's why the setup doesn't run properly.
You have an EXHAUST LEAK, I don't care how well the tuner thinks the tune is, it's going to not work because of that.
The mechanical parts of heads and cam here are not at fault. I would have run a Mr Gasket head gasket on that install. You also need to run VERY little preload with that cam, 1/8th of a turn or less. The setup might be noisy but it will work best there and not cause any problems.
Bret
#32
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
THE ROCKERS NEED TO BE AT 1/8TH OR LESS!, I've said that before. It's not going to find the lost power, but it will work as designed then.
Bret
Bret
#33
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Unfortunately the car would not start today. It kicked over for awhile and it wouldnt start. White smoke started coming out of the hood and underneath the car. I opened the hood and couldnt tell exactly where it was coming from but it looked to be down where the CAI is. I gave it a few more tries then it eventually started and was fine, which was weird. The exhaust fumes smell of gas badly. I've also noticed the longer Ive driven the car the more it backfires, even at WOT it is popping profusely and holding back . Sorry Andy and Tim not whining about the car, just describing the symptoms.
#34
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Bring it back and we can check it out. We can re-adjust the rockers as well.
#35
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
You have an EXHAUST LEAK, I don't care how well the tuner thinks the tune is, it's going to not work because of that.
Bret
Bret
Injectors
intake
throttle body
lower end
compression ratio
tq converter stall speed
rear tires
The lower end will not survive at the rpm that combo will need to be shifted at. Street tires are not going to hook up in first gear from a dead stop. 11.5-12.3:1 CR would be ideal for the H/C. I have tuned quite a few LT1's in that CR range. Every one ran great on pump gas. The stock intake and TB is not going to cut it. The injectors are at 50-60% DC. That means the injectors are too big. I really think a 4000-4500rpm stall would produce the best ET's at the track unless the CI was increased.
If there is something wrong with the install or tune, Redline and I will find it. Nobody is perfect and a mistake could of been made. Really doubt it though. Hang in there Hark_z. Once the issues you are having are resolved, it will be worth it.
#36
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
I take it he's local?
#37
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
If the performance is getting worse and there is a fuel smell its usually a sign of a fouling plug or shorting plug wires. Check em again
#38
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
I've spoken with them and I'm going to be dropping the car off soon in the next few days. Going to try and test the car with the stock injectors, rotate rockers etc., see what we can figure out.
Bret: What size stall do you recommend with this setup??
Bret: What size stall do you recommend with this setup??
#39
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by razor02097
If the performance is getting worse and there is a fuel smell its usually a sign of a fouling plug or shorting plug wires. Check em again
#40
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by Hark_z
Bret: What size stall do you recommend with this setup??
Not Bret, but yours should be plenty.
#41
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by speed_demon24
I guess I shouldn't post drunk.
As Mad Science pointed out, the combo is a little ruff being a mismatch of parts with a few weak areas. You have to find what's restricting hp and certainly the TB and intake would be my first place to start after tuning.
Compression was brought up and I've ran as high as 13.3 to 1 on pump gas with no issues. Tight quench and reverse cooling seems to do wonders in terms of being able to run a lot of compression. The only issue I ran into was the car wanted to run a little hotter than I liked and in 100 degree heat it did get a little ping. No ping if it was cooler.
#42
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by marshall93z
Not Bret, but yours should be plenty.
#43
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by Hark_z
Well just got my car back today with all the mods in the sig and I am scared and worried. The car sounds awesome and performs well but not NEAR what it should. My friend's bolt on LS1 hung with me dead even 30-100. My car should have damn near 400 rwhp, his maybe 320ish. so 7k later my car is a low 13 sec car?? Thought it was supposed to be in the 11's..Is my stock TB holding me back that much?? Tuning was done by a local reputable tuner.
#44
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Originally Posted by Hark_z
It was first reaction after the swap to highlight the new cam and be hesistant. I can tell it most likely isnt a problem with the heads or Bret's work by now. I just hadnt vented when I titled the thread.
#45
Re: heads/BRE cam not right??
Poping could be loose rockers, i've seen that be the case before.
Yes a exhaust leak ANYPLACE can cause issues with sensors. The gas in the exhaust system doesn't just flow out to the tailpipe, it also travels in waves back towards the chamber. When you have issues with LT headers in 2000-3000rpm it can easily be exhaust issues. Especially if the car has cats or something very restrictive for an exhaust, not to mention a pin hole exhaust leak is about your worst nightmare in terms of losing power for no reason. a 30" x 1.75" OD primary has very bad wave tuning in that RPM range so it is causing issues there, especially if it's rich it's going crazy maybe even pushing unburnt fuel back into the chamber and causing these issues. It can happen.
As for a stall for a street car, a 3000-3400 is what that is designed around. Beleive me it will make more TQ than any other cam thru that RPM range. More converter will make for better ET's, and so would more compression but it's not as durable. The only way you were going to get more compression is a thinner head gasket or milling the heads, AGAIN. Those things have been milled enough already.
Bret
Yes a exhaust leak ANYPLACE can cause issues with sensors. The gas in the exhaust system doesn't just flow out to the tailpipe, it also travels in waves back towards the chamber. When you have issues with LT headers in 2000-3000rpm it can easily be exhaust issues. Especially if the car has cats or something very restrictive for an exhaust, not to mention a pin hole exhaust leak is about your worst nightmare in terms of losing power for no reason. a 30" x 1.75" OD primary has very bad wave tuning in that RPM range so it is causing issues there, especially if it's rich it's going crazy maybe even pushing unburnt fuel back into the chamber and causing these issues. It can happen.
As for a stall for a street car, a 3000-3400 is what that is designed around. Beleive me it will make more TQ than any other cam thru that RPM range. More converter will make for better ET's, and so would more compression but it's not as durable. The only way you were going to get more compression is a thinner head gasket or milling the heads, AGAIN. Those things have been milled enough already.
Bret