ENRKyle20

Sorry I have negleted this thread a little.. but I didnt forget about it..

I had some tranny problems I am working out right now (trans is appart on my table).. so I need to get that taken care of before I build the motor, but I do want to order the stuff now.

So I have exactly $2,639 I am willing to put into the car right now. But I will need about $400 for a good clutch and $200 for trans rebuild kit. So with $2,000 What would YOU order for it? Remember its not a daily driver, and im not worred about drivablity or fuel econmy and I want a rough idle. See my sig to see what the car has already. dont add those to the total. for now I definatly want to put the stroker crank in it, other mods I can do with the engine in.


Thanks..

Here is my rough plan:
STROKER KIT (Ebay. $719 LINK
Bore 30over = $200 Rough Estimate?
Balance Flywheel? (no idea on price, if I even need it)
Delphi/Lucas 42# injectors = $330
Tuner Program = $70
Tuner Cable = $75 shipped (used from member of this site - thanks)
Cam= $250 (have exactly decided yet)
valve springs = ?
Valve spring compressor = about $60 (i dont have one)
Timing Chain (If my enine ends up being a interference engine where valves will hit if not timed right, then I will do it, but for now I would keep it stock if I can, I can always do it with the motor in the car later)
ARP Head Bolts = $60
antifreese, oil, trans = $100
I will be modifying the oil pan myself, I have all the tools for it.

I dont know if I need a ballanced flywheel or I can get mine balanced. I read that all LT1's were internall balanced and I dont need to do anything as long as I get a internally ballanced crank.. but I dont know?.. do I need to do anything to it? I also dont know if I will need a bigger fuel pump?

this price needs to include fluids and bolts

reamo04

man, thats an expensive tuning cable, i can get you one for 43 shipped.....
PM me for info

anyways, i wouldnt get that stroker kit, talk to the machine shop that will be doing the work. I know around here, most places wont do it unless you buy some of the parts from them anyways.

And, i'd just run a 355. Your going to go through the $$ you have in just machine work, and your trans.

ENRKyle20

i will be doing it all myself. I will also be clearencing the block myself. my only thing I need a machine shop to do is bore the cylinders 30 over.

reamo04

and balance the rotating assembly. IDC how many say "balanced", id still get them checked

ENRKyle20

$$$$?.. I dont think that will fit in my budget.. plus the kit I will order comes with a balance sheet. so I know it will be balanced

reamo04

what are you doing for heads/cam

A camswap is a grand if done right, and then heads are another grand or more.....

Your going to need more $$ man

ENRKyle20

how is a cam swap $1000... what do you mean done right?.. comp cams cam is 250, springs 250. I have new hyd roller lifters already.. what else is there?
I know heads are more than a grand, but im not doing that yet.

reamo04

cam - 250
springs
pushrods
locs, retainers, etc
then if you include roller rockers too, guideplates, etc.

Trust me, stuff adds up FAST

1996camaroSSclone

He's right. I've been doing alot of research and it all does add up. All that stuff is needed to insure a proper cam swap.....

IrocSS85

you WILL need to get the flywheel balanced. the LT1 is a halfbreed. the front half of the eng. is neutral balanced from the factory, hence no need to rebalance the balancer. but the rear is still externally balanced. look at that ebay website it references the fact that you will need to remove the weight from the flexplate. I don tthink the flywheel has the same welded on weight as the flexplate. but if it does, it'll need to start there. any machine shop that can reface a flywheel can also balance a flywheel after you remove the weight. for your type of build, Id probably trust the "balance" job the rotating assembly comes with. but if this were a compititon engine, or you wanted every last HP, then have the rotating assembly rebalanced.

I also agree though, since your on a fixed budget, just building a 355 would be a better idea.

you dont have any gaskets in your list yet. all those gaskets and seals will add up to a few Hundred dollars.

my eng. boring/torqueplate honeing cost $260. there prolly are places that will do it cheaper, but make sure to find a reputable shop that will check all tolerances. the holes need to match EACH piston. not just drill them to .030 and call it a day. the final bore size will need to reflect the actual dimension of each piston, and its material and use. IE. N/A or nitrous use, hyper. or cast or forged pistons are all diff.

if you break the timing chain, your engine WILL self destruct by crashing the valves into the pistons. so atleast get a good single roller chain.

Im a tech at a pontiac dealership, and guess what? no mention of the head bolts being torque to yield in the manual, OR the parts department. the manual specifically says, remove head bolts, remove AND DISCARD head gaskets. then in the reassemble side, it says to coat the bolts with "XXXXX" thread sealer. new bolts come with the sealer already on them. just more proof that they are not torque to yield. just because they are torqued to an agle, instead of just a torque spec, doesnt mean they stretch like a torque to yield bolt. my heavy guy here has always reused the stock head bolts on the LT1's whenever he's done head gaskets. so you can clean and reuse the head bolts. just make sure to put the thread sealer in there, and torque to factory spec's.

add brake fluid and power steerin fluid.
add brake parts cleaner.
add degreaser/cleaners.
add paint.
add freeze plugs.
add cam bearings and install price.
add push rods


you can reuse the stock rockers and skip the pushrod guide platesrocker studs, but at the expense of HP. but like you said, you need to get the lower end done first, worry about the top end later. easily upgraded later.

ENRKyle20

UPS droped off a something for me.. YAY!. and I got the engine out:

IrocSS85

let the thrashing begin.

ENRKyle20

lol, no thats not for about 2 weeks when I put i back in.. (after breakin..)

ENRKyle20

I was reading that a NEW stock LT1 timing chain would be enough.. is that true?. would you recomend it?.. Mine has 80K so I will not reuse it. but a new stock chain would be cheap.

My machine shop will clearence everyhting for $21.50 per cyliner. wich is $175 ish before taxes, plus ballance the flywheel for $60-80.

Yea. I was looking at gasket sets and its over $200 for it. Where is a good place to get a gasket set?

slomarao

sumitracing. or gm parts direct.