Help me get something straight (long sorry)
#1
Help me get something straight (long sorry)
My short block is nearing its final day in the machine shop. Today i dropped off a stock LT1 flywheel so these guys can balance the rotating assembly. Now i have EXHAUSTED the search feature on this forum and I trust some of you guys to the fullest. From what i gathered since i am using a STOCK ROTATING ASSEMBLY accept new pistons of course (not sure that matters) the proper way to have it all balanced would be to have the front end internally balanced and have the back end balanced with only the flywheel. Is this accurate?
The reason i ask is because the head machinist at the place i took my shortblock to wanted the flywheel AND the clutch/pressure plate to do the balancing with. Now from what I read is that you dont want to do this because then the flywheel and the clutch assembly would be inseperable and would potentially cause balancing issues later on down the road when i get a new clutch assembly that might not be of the same balance. Does this sound correct.
He was reluctant but the machinist finally admitted that this would probably be okay if the dampner and clutch assembly were zero balanced. He kinda had that "however you want it" kinda attatude though. So am i okay with just leaving the flywheel him for the balancing? Ill later have my damner checked for zero balance and have whatever clutch assembly (spec stg 3) i end up with zero balanced as well. Think that will work? Im just trying to do things right the first time.
Thanks for any feedback.
Steve
The reason i ask is because the head machinist at the place i took my shortblock to wanted the flywheel AND the clutch/pressure plate to do the balancing with. Now from what I read is that you dont want to do this because then the flywheel and the clutch assembly would be inseperable and would potentially cause balancing issues later on down the road when i get a new clutch assembly that might not be of the same balance. Does this sound correct.
He was reluctant but the machinist finally admitted that this would probably be okay if the dampner and clutch assembly were zero balanced. He kinda had that "however you want it" kinda attatude though. So am i okay with just leaving the flywheel him for the balancing? Ill later have my damner checked for zero balance and have whatever clutch assembly (spec stg 3) i end up with zero balanced as well. Think that will work? Im just trying to do things right the first time.
Thanks for any feedback.
Steve
#2
Re: Help me get something straight (long sorry)
Originally Posted by blackz97
My short block is nearing its final day in the machine shop. Today i dropped off a stock LT1 flywheel so these guys can balance the rotating assembly. Now i have EXHAUSTED the search feature on this forum and I trust some of you guys to the fullest. From what i gathered since i am using a STOCK ROTATING ASSEMBLY accept new pistons of course (not sure that matters) the proper way to have it all balanced would be to have the front end internally balanced and have the back end balanced with only the flywheel. Is this accurate?
The reason i ask is because the head machinist at the place i took my shortblock to wanted the flywheel AND the clutch/pressure plate to do the balancing with. Now from what I read is that you dont want to do this because then the flywheel and the clutch assembly would be inseperable and would potentially cause balancing issues later on down the road when i get a new clutch assembly that might not be of the same balance. Does this sound correct.
He was reluctant but the machinist finally admitted that this would probably be okay if the dampner and clutch assembly were zero balanced. He kinda had that "however you want it" kinda attatude though. So am i okay with just leaving the flywheel him for the balancing? Ill later have my damner checked for zero balance and have whatever clutch assembly (spec stg 3) i end up with zero balanced as well. Think that will work? Im just trying to do things right the first time.
Thanks for any feedback.
Steve
The reason i ask is because the head machinist at the place i took my shortblock to wanted the flywheel AND the clutch/pressure plate to do the balancing with. Now from what I read is that you dont want to do this because then the flywheel and the clutch assembly would be inseperable and would potentially cause balancing issues later on down the road when i get a new clutch assembly that might not be of the same balance. Does this sound correct.
He was reluctant but the machinist finally admitted that this would probably be okay if the dampner and clutch assembly were zero balanced. He kinda had that "however you want it" kinda attatude though. So am i okay with just leaving the flywheel him for the balancing? Ill later have my damner checked for zero balance and have whatever clutch assembly (spec stg 3) i end up with zero balanced as well. Think that will work? Im just trying to do things right the first time.
Thanks for any feedback.
Steve
In order to be confident the work is done right I would supply the machine shop with the flywheel and damper/hub you intend to use in your build.
sounds like fun, good luck!
#3
Re: Help me get something straight (long sorry)
Yep you got it all straight there...
I like to neutral balance the whole setup and neutral balance the flywheel. You have less inertia with a setup like that and at any point in time you can put a new flywheel on that is neutrally balanced and have a perfectly balanced motor rather than one that is just close.
Bret
I like to neutral balance the whole setup and neutral balance the flywheel. You have less inertia with a setup like that and at any point in time you can put a new flywheel on that is neutrally balanced and have a perfectly balanced motor rather than one that is just close.
Bret
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