help me with this hub
#1
help me with this hub
i cant get the crankshaft pulley hub off the crank. i even got a 3 arm 5 Ton puller and cranked it as much as i could with just a 1/2 inch ratchet, nothing. then i put a 1 1/2 foot breaker bar on there and cranked as hard as i could, still nothing.
and before you say it im not the typical 100lb slouch. im a pretty big dude and this hub is laughing at me.
please help any suggestions would be great
thanks a lot
and before you say it im not the typical 100lb slouch. im a pretty big dude and this hub is laughing at me.
please help any suggestions would be great
thanks a lot
#2
you need to thread a bolt into the end of the crank and push against that... preferably a bolt longer than the one you tighten the hub down with but that will work as long as you are careful not to mess up the threads putting that much pressure on so few.
#5
The hub looks like this . That is why you cannot just slap a puller on there without putting something in the middle of the hole to push against. You might think the threaded portion of your puller is pushing on the end of the crank, when it is actually pushing on the hub. You can bust an ear of the hub that way.
#8
Originally posted by Compstall
I don't understand, seems like so many people have trouble with this, but yet I can get mine off with my bare hands every time.
I don't understand, seems like so many people have trouble with this, but yet I can get mine off with my bare hands every time.
#10
Uh...i would replace your hub if you can pull it off with hands. Thats not good.
Mine it takes a 2.5 ton 3 toe puller, and a breaker bar over a foot and half long to turn the puller, and its still hard. Its been off 3 or 4 times too.
Mine it takes a 2.5 ton 3 toe puller, and a breaker bar over a foot and half long to turn the puller, and its still hard. Its been off 3 or 4 times too.
#12
well its me again, and with a 5 ton puller and a 2 bent grade 8 bolts later my hub is still holding strong any other suggestions??
i havent tried heating yet because i dont have a torch, ill have to borrow one.
but can i just buy a new one, and install it on my new crank??
im doing a 383 and getting pretty much new everything crank timing chain, cover, etc. so would that work??? cause im tired of this one.
so does anyone know where i could get a new one? price or PN??
thanks
i havent tried heating yet because i dont have a torch, ill have to borrow one.
but can i just buy a new one, and install it on my new crank??
im doing a 383 and getting pretty much new everything crank timing chain, cover, etc. so would that work??? cause im tired of this one.
so does anyone know where i could get a new one? price or PN??
thanks
#13
Originally posted by BadAssed93Z
well its me again, and with a 5 ton puller and a 2 bent grade 8 bolts later my hub is still holding strong any other suggestions??
i havent tried heating yet because i dont have a torch, ill have to borrow one.
but can i just buy a new one, and install it on my new crank??
im doing a 383 and getting pretty much new everything crank timing chain, cover, etc. so would that work??? cause im tired of this one.
so does anyone know where i could get a new one? price or PN??
thanks
well its me again, and with a 5 ton puller and a 2 bent grade 8 bolts later my hub is still holding strong any other suggestions??
i havent tried heating yet because i dont have a torch, ill have to borrow one.
but can i just buy a new one, and install it on my new crank??
im doing a 383 and getting pretty much new everything crank timing chain, cover, etc. so would that work??? cause im tired of this one.
so does anyone know where i could get a new one? price or PN??
thanks
Once it is out you need a long skinny bolt (to small to thread in the hub itself -- 4+ inch, 5/16 should do). Stick it in there an let the beveled tip of the puller push on the head of the bolt. I used "regular", cheap *** bolts, but some suggest using allen head bolts, grade 8. The allen head will give you a better seat for the tip of the puller, and may prevent the bolt from moving and thus bending.
I removed the balancer from the hub before attempting to pull it. That was a PITA on mine. 2 hours of WD40 and a prybar (against the opti I was replacing anyway). Steady and gentle, no heavy torque action. I don't know if you have to get the balancer off first, but for some reason I thought so
#14
yes i removed the bolt and i even had a friend of mine weld an inch long peice of pipe on the end of the 2nd grade 8 bolt to keep it straight but it still bent.
thanks though
anyone else??/
thanks though
anyone else??/
#15
I got two grade 8 bolts to pull mine (7/16 thread 20 tpi). One bolt was about 1" longer than the stock bolt the other about 1 1/2" longer. I first removed the stock bolt and put in the grade 8 bolt that was 1" longer and broke the hub loose with a puller. I pull the hub using the puller until it touches the 1" longer bolt head I then pull the 1" longer bolt and put in the 1 1/2" longer bolt and pull the hub the rest of the way off. Starting with the shorter bolt reduces chances of the bolt bending like yours did. Also when you are putting tension on the hub and it won't break free, tap around the hub with a hammer and continue to apply more and more pressure. Heat will also help but watch the seal as mentioned.
Good luck
Good luck
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cyteone
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02-07-2015 06:04 PM