help with new lt1
10-13-2008, 08:22 PM
#1
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Location: Toronto, Canada
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help with new lt1
hey guy, i haven't been on in a long time as ive been out of the scene for a while. Anyways i picked up a 95 z28 M6 with 50km on it. The coolant light is on, was told it just recently came on, on the way home i had to fill up gas, i got to the gas station then noticed my coolant overflow bottle was overflowing from the top cap, i removed it to see the overflow bottle full to the rim. I started the car up, check the overflow bottle and it has sucked all that coolant back into the engine, hasn't done it since then, but light is still on. The engine doesn't overheat, cant figure out why the light would be one, maybe air in the system?
the check engine light comes on every so often then turns off, comes on randomly. The engine is a bit hesitant, or the timing may be off? Im not sure, from the passenger side of the engine bay i can hear a ticking, but its not constant like a lose rocker, just random 'tick..tick...........tick........tick tick" you get the idea. Almost sounds like a spark arcing, maybe one of the spark plugs.
Just wondering if anyone had any ideas as to how i cant go about checking to find out whats wrong, or maybe some suggestions and what you think?
thanks in advance for any input.
Matt
the check engine light comes on every so often then turns off, comes on randomly. The engine is a bit hesitant, or the timing may be off? Im not sure, from the passenger side of the engine bay i can hear a ticking, but its not constant like a lose rocker, just random 'tick..tick...........tick........tick tick" you get the idea. Almost sounds like a spark arcing, maybe one of the spark plugs.
Just wondering if anyone had any ideas as to how i cant go about checking to find out whats wrong, or maybe some suggestions and what you think?
thanks in advance for any input.
Matt
10-13-2008, 09:39 PM
#2
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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To find out why the SES light is coming on, put a scanner on it.
As far as the coolant level switch, they are a common problem, often indicating low coolant when the coolant isn't actually low. However based on your description, appears you may have boiling in the cooling system. That could be caused by overheating, a faulty radiator pressure cap, or even a head gasket leak. You need to check the level in the radiator, not in the overflow reservoir, since the level sensor is on the radiator, not on the reservoir.
Is it possible the "tick" is from an exhaust leak?
As far as the coolant level switch, they are a common problem, often indicating low coolant when the coolant isn't actually low. However based on your description, appears you may have boiling in the cooling system. That could be caused by overheating, a faulty radiator pressure cap, or even a head gasket leak. You need to check the level in the radiator, not in the overflow reservoir, since the level sensor is on the radiator, not on the reservoir.
Is it possible the "tick" is from an exhaust leak?
10-13-2008, 10:32 PM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
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To find out why the SES light is coming on, put a scanner on it.
As far as the coolant level switch, they are a common problem, often indicating low coolant when the coolant isn't actually low. However based on your description, appears you may have boiling in the cooling system. That could be caused by overheating, a faulty radiator pressure cap, or even a head gasket leak. You need to check the level in the radiator, not in the overflow reservoir, since the level sensor is on the radiator, not on the reservoir.
Is it possible the "tick" is from an exhaust leak?
As far as the coolant level switch, they are a common problem, often indicating low coolant when the coolant isn't actually low. However based on your description, appears you may have boiling in the cooling system. That could be caused by overheating, a faulty radiator pressure cap, or even a head gasket leak. You need to check the level in the radiator, not in the overflow reservoir, since the level sensor is on the radiator, not on the reservoir.
Is it possible the "tick" is from an exhaust leak?
10-14-2008, 04:18 PM
#4
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 137
so i did some playing around with the car today. pulled the rad cap off, rad is full, im assuming the low coolant sensor is done, and if im not mistaken its on the rad itself?
next when i start the car up, theirs no check engine light on. after about 5-10 seconds it comes on. Car idols a little rough, but doesn't bounce around. i was playing with the intake elbow while the car was running and anytime i moved the intake tubing up or down the car would start to die, i unplugged the maf and tried again, nothing happened this time. Does this mean my MAF is toast and i need a new one?
any suggestions would be great.
Matt
next when i start the car up, theirs no check engine light on. after about 5-10 seconds it comes on. Car idols a little rough, but doesn't bounce around. i was playing with the intake elbow while the car was running and anytime i moved the intake tubing up or down the car would start to die, i unplugged the maf and tried again, nothing happened this time. Does this mean my MAF is toast and i need a new one?
any suggestions would be great.
Matt
10-14-2008, 04:37 PM
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Mine wouldnt run without the MAF unless I pulled the PCM fuses to reset it.. I would go get some MAF sensor cleaner at autozone and clean it.. an over oiled KN can cake those pretty quick.. also check and make sure the bellows is on all the way on the bottom of the throttle body. Also move the wires on the connector to the maf after you have done the other stuff to rule out a harness/connector issue..
10-14-2008, 07:41 PM
#6
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Mine wouldnt run without the MAF unless I pulled the PCM fuses to reset it.. I would go get some MAF sensor cleaner at autozone and clean it.. an over oiled KN can cake those pretty quick.. also check and make sure the bellows is on all the way on the bottom of the throttle body. Also move the wires on the connector to the maf after you have done the other stuff to rule out a harness/connector issue..
10-15-2008, 02:50 AM
#7
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no exhaust would get in there, the air pump has a totally different function.. its just connected to the intake so the air pump will pull clean air to heat the cats upon the first few minutes its running.. thats all it does.. you can pull the relay for it but leave the fuse and you will get no check engine light I believe on a 94 and just cap where the AIR hose goes into the intake.. personally I ripped all that crap out of my car because its soo much clutter and make things hard to get to. good luck!
10-15-2008, 05:15 AM
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If the SES light comes on at startup, YOU NEED TO SCAN THE PCM. The code will be stored and you can read it, even though the light goes back out. If you want to just try guesses to fix it, check the fuse for the AIR pump.
If the engine stalls when you jiggle the inlet elbow, could be the wiring for the MAF, or it could be as simple as the intake elbow having a tear in it, or not being fully on the bottom of the throttle body.
The line from the AIR pump to the air inlet duct is not a breather. That's where the AIR pump gets the air it blows into the exhaust manifolds. It IS possible for exhaust to get back through the pump and through that line, but ONLY if the check valves at the manifolds fail. If that happens, you will usually end up with melted rubber hoses at the check valve.
If the engine stalls when you jiggle the inlet elbow, could be the wiring for the MAF, or it could be as simple as the intake elbow having a tear in it, or not being fully on the bottom of the throttle body.
The line from the AIR pump to the air inlet duct is not a breather. That's where the AIR pump gets the air it blows into the exhaust manifolds. It IS possible for exhaust to get back through the pump and through that line, but ONLY if the check valves at the manifolds fail. If that happens, you will usually end up with melted rubber hoses at the check valve.
10-15-2008, 09:17 PM
#9
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no exhaust would get in there, the air pump has a totally different function.. its just connected to the intake so the air pump will pull clean air to heat the cats upon the first few minutes its running.. thats all it does.. you can pull the relay for it but leave the fuse and you will get no check engine light I believe on a 94 and just cap where the AIR hose goes into the intake.. personally I ripped all that crap out of my car because its soo much clutter and make things hard to get to. good luck!
also made 460hp...
If the SES light comes on at startup, YOU NEED TO SCAN THE PCM. The code will be stored and you can read it, even though the light goes back out. If you want to just try guesses to fix it, check the fuse for the AIR pump.
If the engine stalls when you jiggle the inlet elbow, could be the wiring for the MAF, or it could be as simple as the intake elbow having a tear in it, or not being fully on the bottom of the throttle body.
The line from the AIR pump to the air inlet duct is not a breather. That's where the AIR pump gets the air it blows into the exhaust manifolds. It IS possible for exhaust to get back through the pump and through that line, but ONLY if the check valves at the manifolds fail. If that happens, you will usually end up with melted rubber hoses at the check valve.
If the engine stalls when you jiggle the inlet elbow, could be the wiring for the MAF, or it could be as simple as the intake elbow having a tear in it, or not being fully on the bottom of the throttle body.
The line from the AIR pump to the air inlet duct is not a breather. That's where the AIR pump gets the air it blows into the exhaust manifolds. It IS possible for exhaust to get back through the pump and through that line, but ONLY if the check valves at the manifolds fail. If that happens, you will usually end up with melted rubber hoses at the check valve.
yea, ive been trying to find someone with a scanner, and also the time to get it scanned. The intake elbow had a bad seal around the throttle body due to a tear. Thankfully i still have my old intake, just need to swap it. See what that does.
10-23-2008, 05:47 PM
#10
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intake issue has been fixed.
well i finally got out there and warmed the system up, then i bleed the coolant of air. Turns out their was no air, but i seem to be at another problem, the coolant overflow bottle has now overflowed twice on me and i haven't added more coolant. When i turned the car off i could hear the coolant boiling in the rad and the overflow bottle pouring fluid.
This leads me to believe that the thermostat is broken and no longer opening thus needs replacing?This is just what i think im no mechanic and im asking if this sounds to be a thermostat issue?
any comments appreciated.
well i finally got out there and warmed the system up, then i bleed the coolant of air. Turns out their was no air, but i seem to be at another problem, the coolant overflow bottle has now overflowed twice on me and i haven't added more coolant. When i turned the car off i could hear the coolant boiling in the rad and the overflow bottle pouring fluid.
This leads me to believe that the thermostat is broken and no longer opening thus needs replacing?This is just what i think im no mechanic and im asking if this sounds to be a thermostat issue?
any comments appreciated.
10-25-2008, 10:39 AM
#13
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well last night Z28 MeTaL HeAd came over and we replaced the rad cap, installed a 160 degree thermostat and bleed the system of air. Also turns out the rad fan fuse was blown, replaced that and the cooling system is running like new now.
Check engine light also turned off...weird. Theirs an spark coming from the opti, can hear it arching randomly, so tonight while it was dark did some looking around and could see the spark coming off the opti, appears to be the top left area of the opti. Just hoping i dont have to pull the opti, thinking maybe a cracked cap on the opti or a lose or cracked spark plug wire. Arch seems to be coming from where the PCM connects to the opti, can see it at the top left.
Check engine light also turned off...weird. Theirs an spark coming from the opti, can hear it arching randomly, so tonight while it was dark did some looking around and could see the spark coming off the opti, appears to be the top left area of the opti. Just hoping i dont have to pull the opti, thinking maybe a cracked cap on the opti or a lose or cracked spark plug wire. Arch seems to be coming from where the PCM connects to the opti, can see it at the top left.
10-27-2008, 05:26 AM
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