Not sure what your funding is like but chandler motorsports offers a decent optispark for in around $130 on ebay. If it turns out thats what you need. I beleive they have a lifetime warranty as well

 

Yea I found that vendor on another forum not sure if they're on this one or not. $168 for opti with lifetime warranty.

 

Just bought an opti from Chandler motorsports and installed it the other day. Price was pretty attractive compared to the alternative of replacing the cap and rotor for my 97. $89.99 for my vented is what I paid but we will see if it lasts. I was getting severe hesitation at different RPM's under WOT so i figured the old opti i had was arcing. This seems to be a common problem with these opti's. As for Chandler some of the other forums gave mixed reviews, most of the bad ones are due to their unresponsivness to customer concerns about their product in a timely manner, but we will see if their product stands up, thats what matters.

 

I asked around on another forum with positive feedback, people have been running chandler opti units for quite some time now with no problems performance wise which is what matters most. But can't beat the price they give with the lifetime warranty. Since I had an intake leak I know my opti is filthy throughout and IDK how long it's been on there from previous owner so it's a good bet it needs changed anyways. the WP seems fine though.

Found more info thanks to Injuneer on the chandler opti's. hmmmm it's a gamble.

 

OK, got m cable from Moates today and have it all working good. So I did my first test scan just to see if I had everything installed like I'm suppose to and I do. I pulled 3 codes using Freescan that didn't set off my SES light. I have codes 48(MAF failure) 42(EST grounded) and 22(Throttle Position Low).

As for actually running a full scan I have yet to do that. I still need to install my new left O2 sensor, and also figure out how to save the freescan data file to share with you all. Let me know what to do. Thanks.

***I know I'll probably need a new MAF, and I'll need to slot the TPS correctly, but as for the est grounded or shorting thing no clue.

***I reset my codes on freescan and none of them came back up?

 

Sorry to burst your bubble but a 22 and a 48 WILL set an SES. They were most likely stored in memory.

 

Yea, but awhile back I cleared all the codes when I did a check at Oreilly and the SES light has never came back on so these codes should've been cleared then.

Also, tell me if I'm on the right track. My tps voltage while idling was .82 and I believe that checks ok correct? But my IAC position number was extremely high at 128. What should the IAC position number be? Those numbers are what you're all referring to as the IAC counts yes? So, if I slowly back the stop screw out while watching these numbers I should be able to fine tune it into the correct range?

And how would I go about the code 22? The icm tested good at oreilly and the coil tested fine when I checked it following the haynes manual.

 

Many times a ICM will test good but fail under use. They get hot and can't dissapte the heat. Take a hair dryer to the parts store and heat that bugger. I read where just testing it multiple times will cause them to fail also.
I got lucky when I adjusted my TPS. I know you are NOT supposed to adjust the stop screw but I did. I cut a slot in my stop with a dremel. I then used a screwdriver to turn the set screw -IN- This lowered my IAC count to 30 or so, and my idle speed about 100 rpm.

 

We tested the icm 6 times at oreilly is tested fine everytime, that and the problem I'm having happens at all temps. I was told to not adjust the stop screw until I got data and was able to visually check the numbers while I adjusted it, if I had to at all.

 

I'm going to use freescan to reset my IAC steps to factory settings so the valve and pcm are matching, since it says the pcm can read the steps differently from what the valve is actually at. So I'll reset them on freescan and see my numbers then. If I need to adjust I've found the ranges of .5-.6 volts for the tps range and the iac counts needing to be somewhere around 155 or so, does that sound correct. And when adjusting as mentioned before, can I just watch these numbers while backing out the stop screw until these numbers are in range or do I need to slot the tps until it falls into the correct volt range? I can manually set the rpm idle range on freescan but it already reads 800.

***Also, the knock count was really high. I did a few scans and the lowest I think it got was 2700**needs clarification, the increase in increments seemed to be spurratic and jumping. I'll have to scan more and pay closer attention here***. There was no spark retard number and the last spark advance number I could recall was 36.

 

Just real quick, I totally feel your pain with this nightmare I was having nearly the exact same problem that i noticed in july after getting my car from my parents after sitting the past 7 years. Changed just about every sensor all hoses plugs wires egr maf yadda yadda yadda, finally just had to stop throwing money at it and i pulled the motor and am going crate with all new components. Hopefully you figure this out man mine is a 94 as well and like you originally said everyone who has this problem seems to fix it a different way.

 

First scan data link. Not quite sure yet what everything means but I'll get the hang of it eventually. If someone could take a look at it, hopefully it works, and let me know what they see. Thanks.

http://www.mediafire.com/?u8djpoyvmdgv70f

Here is a second scan:

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?b1ybh9a66ba4kwc

 

Last two scan were taken while idle in the garage. This log was taken while on a short drive just to get the symptoms to occur and show data.

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ps587621a4qychd

 

I've seen a link on here numerous times, usually posted by the same member. Can't quite recall his name, maybe it's Duayne? His member tag is something with Caprice in it I believe. Anyways, he posts a link that refers to the stock TB and aftermarket TB and how aftermarket does not have a ported hole through it above the iac housing like the stock TB does and how this may effect the flow of air. Does anyone else know what I'm referring to and show me the link? Thanks.

***Found the link, nvm.

 

After all my scans have my IAC jumping around everywhere I went back and tested it again. With my ohms meter set to 200ohm, I checked resistance across a-b and c-d and it says it is suppose to be 40-80ohms. Well mine keeps fluctuating anywhere between 9-11 basically and I can't get a solid reading, it stays in that range. I also have NO continuity across a-d and b-c like it's suppose to be. So since I'm not getting the correct resistance does that mean the harness/wiring is bad or what? It's a new sensor, it's the second "new" sensor I've had to put it because the readings on the last one were bad as well.

**now I can pull 63ohms? hard to get an accurate reading I guess, it fluctuates and drops all the time.