rustv8

the gas was ran through like new and was cleaned up but it doesnt explain at top end 5k or 6k rpm breaking and popping then shifting. i will try and see if i can get the cable and software to see what it does.

rustv8

update: i put a brand new petris enterprise optispark in and it still did not get rid of the code 36 and it costed me already 600 for a new opti and went big on it and added a new acdelco coil in, i still have new plugs and msd wires on and i tried with the msd box and without the msd box and it now just hesitates and idles low at like 600ish but im guessing thats normal cuz when it goes into drive its at 600 500rpm. havent tried wop to get a log yet. but now im confused. i think it might be pcm or something i do not know. but it starts right up after 3 seconds which is normal. only thing is still the hesitation when i give it more gas it still hesitates at like 1500 2000rpm then it ups and goes. i have no clue and im lost. i still have a maf delete and all that but i honestly dont know anymore...

ps: just filled it with gas as well brand new gas and i might just do maintenance with fuel filter and air filter.

Injuneer

Could be the Opti harness, the socket in the PCM, the connector for the Opti. Try this:

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

Scroll down to "Optispark Harness":

http://shbox.com/1/95_ign_system_schematic.jpg

rustv8

i dont know why its so important on a different thread i was talking about the scan9495 i ordered a usb to obd1 harness but i gotta get a laptop geez....

reposted: i tested everything and used a dummy harness i made to test the pcm and the opti harness to the pcm is fine and even the icm except the ohms i dont really know how to do but i tried to see if it was grounded but it kept staying around .3 i dont know if i did it right but it seems like the optispark harness is fine but around the icm and such i cant get a read on yet but when i get my laptop and the usb to obdi scanner part i ordered im gunna try and get a log to see whats going on with it, because it seems like its still breaking up at 5k to 6k still but hesistation abit when it cold starts.

Injuneer

OK…. If you think it's not important to read and follow the advice you are given, or to keep your responses in one thread rather than scatter gunning it in three different threads, there's not much more I can do to help you.

rustv8

ive been needing help and was asking questions even while using both threads constantly i bought the scanner tool for the other thread asked questions as well as trying to figure out how to use the software to see the high and low resolution signals...but course as usual no one wants to help me...thanks.

rustv8

alright im sorry but i got a log after learning how to use it. i just wanty this car to stop giving me issues...can you look at the log to see why...
thank you and again im sorry

Injuneer

I looked at the log and it's not adequate tp make any meaningful analysis. You need to follow my guide for running a data log:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...-guide-886891/

That link was posted above.

Normally I say don't reset the PCM. But in this case you have three codes - 16, 36, 41 - and you need to clear them (pull PCM BAT fuse for 30 seconds, or use Scan9495). That way I can see if and when they appear again.

Injuneer

I'm going to copy and paste this here, because to get anything meaningful, particularly with a high speed miss, you have to follow this procedure.

DATA LOG GUIDELINES

Do not reset PCM. Do not remove a battery cable. Do not pull the PCM BAT fuse. (IN THIS CASE, YOU SHOULD CLEAR THE PCM)

Start COLD engine. Do NOT turn on A/C or Defrost. Turn off traction control (ASR / TCS) if vehicle equipped.

Leave the accel pedal alone. Do NOT rev the engine while it is warming up. Leave it alone. (There is nothing to be learned by revving the **** out of a cold engine, without a load on the engine. It will do more damage than good)

Allow engine to idle for at least 4 minutes. Should be long enough to warm up and put PCM in closed loop.

Start driving car for about 10 minutes. Vary the accel pedal position and RPM. Make at least one WOT pull from a roll up to at least 5,000 RPM.

Mentally note (or have a passenger write down) when the engine exhibited the problem you are chasing.

Stop driving, let it idle for about 30 seconds, without touching the accel pedal.

= = = = = = = = = = = = =

I'll also add - don't keep stopping and starting and the engine during the log. Just screws things up.

The log has no readings for the MAF sensor. Has the PCM been reprogrammed to run in speed-density? You should have a code for no MAF signal, but there is none..

Idle air counts are way too high at idle. This can be a problem with aftermarket throttle bodies, or the IAC may not be working. There is no feedback for the actual IAC position, and no codes if it is not working, idle air passage is plugged up, etc..

rustv8

okay i will get the new pcm probably today or so and i have a maf delete so yes it is in s.d mode right now, i am not sure about the iac i will take a look at that and get the voltage off it and see if i can replace it if that is the case. but as well as the procedure for the rest of it once i get the pcm i will do that and get the log and send it over. hopefully in my area people wont hate me after i do the logs on the highway

Injuneer

The procedure does not require you to drive unsafely, or in an irresponsible manner. The WOT pull can be in 1st gear, where you probably won’t have to break the speed limit. Pulling out on a highway from an entrance ramp should be reasonable. But if you feel it’s unsafe, don’t do it.

rustv8

ok so i got the drive in with a 5k pull but i also went on the highway for a full pull in 2nd gear, only thing is it saved two wierdly so hopefully there good enough...please let me know it still is trying to die everytime i blip the gas or tap it normall i have to feather it to go. and course up top still it breaks up abit. but it seems after the drive it works abit more just needs to figure out the resolution and all that, mass airflow sensor is installed as well. please help.

Injuneer

Who tuned it to run in speed-density (no MAF)? Why? What other ENGINE modifications does it have?

Injuneer

But, looking quickly at the above logs, MAF appears to have been reconnected. What’s going on? Why are you switching back and forth?

rustv8

it was a maf delete the first time and it was tuned to use speed density, then i put a new pcm in and it reset so i put everything back.
but the mods it currently has is there following in the 95 camaro:
2500 stall no lockup w built trans,
shorty pacesetter headers with no cats just offroad y pipe
spark plugs were new like 3000 or so miles ago
egr delete
ac delete with replacement pulley
knn cold air intake kit
msd wires, new coil acdelco,
brand new petris enterprise optispark kit with new tubes for the vacum hoses and intake.
maf was deleted but now its back temporarily till i fix this resolution issue.
bottom end of motor was aparently refreshened up
air foil install a small mod with coolant bypass with throttlebody
and a new pcm as i said in post #40

i am not sure as far as i know from suspension and such i was planning to put long tube headers on after i fixed the issue...but i guess there is more to it then i thought?
please let me know if i missed any other questions.

EDIT: sorry and someone in my town who tunes on a dynojet he put it in speed density mode so it got alittle bit more fuel when i removed the maf so it didnt idle stupidly or act dumb and he also turned off traction control since i dont have a switch for it.