how can i tell if i spun a bearing?
11-12-2002, 09:34 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 50
how can i tell if i spun a bearing?
i was driving my car back from the shop where they adjusted my rr's that i put on wrong (
), and replaced my broken oil pressure sending unit. i drove it for about an hour, stopped for a while and hopped back on the highway. i was driving at about 4-5k rpm when my oil pressure gauge crashed to zero, and the car stalled out. car wont start at all, so im pretty sure its not the new sending unit. i just finished my first heads and cam install, so im afraid that now ive trashed my motor good. i was reading this post, and im not sure how to even tell if i spun a bearing. also, how can you spot a collapsed lifter? lol, it looks like i spent all my money breaking my car, so now ive got none left to fix it. wish me luck.
cody
), and replaced my broken oil pressure sending unit. i drove it for about an hour, stopped for a while and hopped back on the highway. i was driving at about 4-5k rpm when my oil pressure gauge crashed to zero, and the car stalled out. car wont start at all, so im pretty sure its not the new sending unit. i just finished my first heads and cam install, so im afraid that now ive trashed my motor good. i was reading this post, and im not sure how to even tell if i spun a bearing. also, how can you spot a collapsed lifter? lol, it looks like i spent all my money breaking my car, so now ive got none left to fix it. wish me luck.cody
11-12-2002, 11:26 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,714
It depends on whether the engine died first or the oil pressure did. Do the normal things and check for spark and fuel before jumping to any conclusions. If it cranks, the engine is obviously not seized.
11-12-2002, 11:43 PM
#3
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 623
If the engine started making really loud metallic rapping and or ticking noises then yes I would say its fried for sure. If it just shut off like it was out of gas or if it cranks fine then the motor itself is fine. If/when you get it started and there are no apparent knocking noises at first take a broom stick and put it against the oil pan and the other end to your ear (someone correct me if I'm a bit off on this test). If you hear knocking type noises (believe me you'll know it when you hear it) theres a rod bearing or 2 thats fried. If you hear otherwise then you're fine. good luck
Jason
Jason
11-13-2002, 12:48 AM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Mountain View, CA
Posts: 64
well, how long was it after the oil pressure crashed, and your car stalled?
The rockers might have backed out - which is bad, but.. nowhere near as bad as a spun bearing.
I'm going to throw in my guess and say that if oil pressure crashed first, then its probably a problem related to oil starvation.. spun bearing or so. If its the other way around, get those rockers checked - i had #5's exhaust rocker back out on me a couple times. So I used threadlocker blue on it
(stay away from threadlocker red.. guess how I know)
The rockers might have backed out - which is bad, but.. nowhere near as bad as a spun bearing.
I'm going to throw in my guess and say that if oil pressure crashed first, then its probably a problem related to oil starvation.. spun bearing or so. If its the other way around, get those rockers checked - i had #5's exhaust rocker back out on me a couple times. So I used threadlocker blue on it
(stay away from threadlocker red.. guess how I know)
11-13-2002, 07:52 AM
#6
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Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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Originally posted by kertong
well, how long was it after the oil pressure crashed, and your car stalled?
well, how long was it after the oil pressure crashed, and your car stalled?
cody
11-13-2002, 09:14 AM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: jacksonville, fl usa
Posts: 287
here's what happened to me recently...
i broke in my heads/cam/LT's/clutch install for almost 500 miles of easy shifting street driving before getting on it. after ~450~ miles i hammered it a few times on the street and then took it to the track. on the 3rd pass at the track the car nosed over in 3rd gear and eventually shut itself off. after i got the car home i pulled off both valve covers and checked the rockers, pushrods, etc., and much to my relief everything was ok up there, so i decided to fire it up. it started and ran fine (normal idle and oil pressure) for 3-5 minutes, after which the idle worsened (600-700) and oil pressure dropped to ~20~ psi. there were no loud noises coming from the engine, nor did it seize up, but it never regained idle rpm and oil pressure after the initial drop. i was tempted to drive it, but figured i'd pull the filter first to see what i found. after pulling the filter this weekend, i found metal shavings present almost everywhere in the filter element.
the moral of the story is, when something like this happens, stop driving the car and check everything you can. you can easily get the valve covers and intake off (if necessary) in your driveway, along with the oil filter. by following some helpful advice from friends (as well as not trying to drive the car), i probably kept my engine from completely seizing. in the process i probably saved several hundred dollars by not causing any more damage than had already been done. i'd hate to see what the shortblock would have looked like if i had tried to drive the car while it was in the process of spinning a bearing. i'll post what we find as soon as my engine is torn down.
i broke in my heads/cam/LT's/clutch install for almost 500 miles of easy shifting street driving before getting on it. after ~450~ miles i hammered it a few times on the street and then took it to the track. on the 3rd pass at the track the car nosed over in 3rd gear and eventually shut itself off. after i got the car home i pulled off both valve covers and checked the rockers, pushrods, etc., and much to my relief everything was ok up there, so i decided to fire it up. it started and ran fine (normal idle and oil pressure) for 3-5 minutes, after which the idle worsened (600-700) and oil pressure dropped to ~20~ psi. there were no loud noises coming from the engine, nor did it seize up, but it never regained idle rpm and oil pressure after the initial drop. i was tempted to drive it, but figured i'd pull the filter first to see what i found. after pulling the filter this weekend, i found metal shavings present almost everywhere in the filter element.
the moral of the story is, when something like this happens, stop driving the car and check everything you can. you can easily get the valve covers and intake off (if necessary) in your driveway, along with the oil filter. by following some helpful advice from friends (as well as not trying to drive the car), i probably kept my engine from completely seizing. in the process i probably saved several hundred dollars by not causing any more damage than had already been done. i'd hate to see what the shortblock would have looked like if i had tried to drive the car while it was in the process of spinning a bearing. i'll post what we find as soon as my engine is torn down.
11-03-2003, 01:25 PM
#8
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quad Cities
Posts: 609
Originally posted by rumair
here's what happened to me recently...
i broke in my heads/cam/LT's/clutch install for almost 500 miles of easy shifting street driving before getting on it. after ~450~ miles i hammered it a few times on the street and then took it to the track. on the 3rd pass at the track the car nosed over in 3rd gear and eventually shut itself off. after i got the car home i pulled off both valve covers and checked the rockers, pushrods, etc., and much to my relief everything was ok up there, so i decided to fire it up. it started and ran fine (normal idle and oil pressure) for 3-5 minutes, after which the idle worsened (600-700) and oil pressure dropped to ~20~ psi. there were no loud noises coming from the engine, nor did it seize up, but it never regained idle rpm and oil pressure after the initial drop. i was tempted to drive it, but figured i'd pull the filter first to see what i found. after pulling the filter this weekend, i found metal shavings present almost everywhere in the filter element.
the moral of the story is, when something like this happens, stop driving the car and check everything you can. you can easily get the valve covers and intake off (if necessary) in your driveway, along with the oil filter. by following some helpful advice from friends (as well as not trying to drive the car), i probably kept my engine from completely seizing. in the process i probably saved several hundred dollars by not causing any more damage than had already been done. i'd hate to see what the shortblock would have looked like if i had tried to drive the car while it was in the process of spinning a bearing. i'll post what we find as soon as my engine is torn down.
here's what happened to me recently...
i broke in my heads/cam/LT's/clutch install for almost 500 miles of easy shifting street driving before getting on it. after ~450~ miles i hammered it a few times on the street and then took it to the track. on the 3rd pass at the track the car nosed over in 3rd gear and eventually shut itself off. after i got the car home i pulled off both valve covers and checked the rockers, pushrods, etc., and much to my relief everything was ok up there, so i decided to fire it up. it started and ran fine (normal idle and oil pressure) for 3-5 minutes, after which the idle worsened (600-700) and oil pressure dropped to ~20~ psi. there were no loud noises coming from the engine, nor did it seize up, but it never regained idle rpm and oil pressure after the initial drop. i was tempted to drive it, but figured i'd pull the filter first to see what i found. after pulling the filter this weekend, i found metal shavings present almost everywhere in the filter element.
the moral of the story is, when something like this happens, stop driving the car and check everything you can. you can easily get the valve covers and intake off (if necessary) in your driveway, along with the oil filter. by following some helpful advice from friends (as well as not trying to drive the car), i probably kept my engine from completely seizing. in the process i probably saved several hundred dollars by not causing any more damage than had already been done. i'd hate to see what the shortblock would have looked like if i had tried to drive the car while it was in the process of spinning a bearing. i'll post what we find as soon as my engine is torn down.
I hope I get lucky and its something simple.. Any updates???
11-03-2003, 01:30 PM
#9
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: HI.
Posts: 2,201
The quickest way to find out if you have a spun bearing is crail the oil. You'll see shavings in it for sure. I spun mine about 3 months ago and there was no knocking until the car was really warmed up and the oil thinned out. Then you could hear the man at the door. But if your saying that it all happened at once than I bout its a spun bearing. Your car wouldnt just dead knock out with a spun bearing unless it seized which would me it wouldnt crank over.
I would do like good ol SHoebox said and eliminate everything else first.
I would do like good ol SHoebox said and eliminate everything else first.
11-03-2003, 01:40 PM
#10
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quad Cities
Posts: 609
Originally posted by S.J.S.
The quickest way to find out if you have a spun bearing is crail the oil. You'll see shavings in it for sure. I spun mine about 3 months ago and there was no knocking until the car was really warmed up and the oil thinned out. Then you could hear the man at the door. But if your saying that it all happened at once than I bout its a spun bearing. Your car wouldnt just dead knock out with a spun bearing unless it seized which would me it wouldnt crank over.
I would do like good ol SHoebox said and eliminate everything else first.
The quickest way to find out if you have a spun bearing is crail the oil. You'll see shavings in it for sure. I spun mine about 3 months ago and there was no knocking until the car was really warmed up and the oil thinned out. Then you could hear the man at the door. But if your saying that it all happened at once than I bout its a spun bearing. Your car wouldnt just dead knock out with a spun bearing unless it seized which would me it wouldnt crank over.
I would do like good ol SHoebox said and eliminate everything else first.
11-03-2003, 01:53 PM
#11
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: HI.
Posts: 2,201
Lil fine dust you mean. If so than that aint bad...kinda normal inother words. In mine you could see thread size like shimmers of metal. When you drain the oil into a pan....pour it out of the pan into something else and you see what remains on the bottom of the pan.
11-03-2003, 02:03 PM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
Posts: 3,499
I hope its not too bad, but if you just finished your "first" heads and cam install and wound it up to 4-5 K, if you boogered your bearings you might start looking for a new short block.
Next time, take it easy long enough to see if everything is running well. Let me temper this with "you just never know when things will go to hell and for no apparent reason". $hi+ happens.
Next time, take it easy long enough to see if everything is running well. Let me temper this with "you just never know when things will go to hell and for no apparent reason". $hi+ happens.
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