How to check if my EGR valve is bad?
#2
egr?
start car,push in on diaphram inside of valve,car should almost die.if rpm doesnt seriously drop,valve is bad,if it sounds like you are choking the **** out of youre car thats because,well you are,but then valve is good.but just because valve is good doesnt mean another component isnt failing.what kinda problems you having?
#4
Re: egr?
Originally posted by whopper
start car,push in on diaphram inside of valve,car should almost die.if rpm doesnt seriously drop,valve is bad,if it sounds like you are choking the **** out of youre car thats because,well you are,but then valve is good.but just because valve is good doesnt mean another component isnt failing.what kinda problems you having?
start car,push in on diaphram inside of valve,car should almost die.if rpm doesnt seriously drop,valve is bad,if it sounds like you are choking the **** out of youre car thats because,well you are,but then valve is good.but just because valve is good doesnt mean another component isnt failing.what kinda problems you having?
#5
Where is this diaphragm? Truly on the valve or on the solenoid?
Because I can't feel anything that will "push in" on the valve on the rear of the manifold.
I'm wondering if my EGR setup is bad too, cause of a stumble. Can't tell if it's tuning so I want to rule out EGR first.
Because I can't feel anything that will "push in" on the valve on the rear of the manifold.
I'm wondering if my EGR setup is bad too, cause of a stumble. Can't tell if it's tuning so I want to rule out EGR first.
#8
Rob, by front side, you mean the side of the valve closest to the front of the car?
If so, then I think I know what you mean... like little indentations in the valve where you can fit a finger or two?
If that's the diaphragm, and it won't move at ALL when I push on it, does this mean the valve is dead? I mean, it feels as hard as the outer part of the valve. I am checking it when the engine is off. Would it be differently with the engine running, or is it still a sign of a bad valve?
Thanks, and sorry for butting into your thread, Alex.
If so, then I think I know what you mean... like little indentations in the valve where you can fit a finger or two?
If that's the diaphragm, and it won't move at ALL when I push on it, does this mean the valve is dead? I mean, it feels as hard as the outer part of the valve. I am checking it when the engine is off. Would it be differently with the engine running, or is it still a sign of a bad valve?
Thanks, and sorry for butting into your thread, Alex.
#9
Originally posted by JSK333
Rob, by front side, you mean the side of the valve closest to the front of the car?
If so, then I think I know what you mean... like little indentations in the valve where you can fit a finger or two?
If that's the diaphragm, and it won't move at ALL when I push on it, does this mean the valve is dead? I mean, it feels as hard as the outer part of the valve. I am checking it when the engine is off. Would it be differently with the engine running, or is it still a sign of a bad valve?
Thanks, and sorry for butting into your thread, Alex.
Rob, by front side, you mean the side of the valve closest to the front of the car?
If so, then I think I know what you mean... like little indentations in the valve where you can fit a finger or two?
If that's the diaphragm, and it won't move at ALL when I push on it, does this mean the valve is dead? I mean, it feels as hard as the outer part of the valve. I am checking it when the engine is off. Would it be differently with the engine running, or is it still a sign of a bad valve?
Thanks, and sorry for butting into your thread, Alex.
Possibly even better/easier is to use a vacuum tester to put vacuum on the valve and then you can watch if it moves when the vacuum is applied. Then you will know if it holds vacuum and also that it is not sticking.
#11
I think its lack of air, the engine would spin faster the more air enters the manifolds...
(Someone correct me if im wrong
I'm also interrested in checking my EGR...
I just did my PCV valve, the old one looked sorta ok, but was pretty gunked up. Getting a pair of needle nose pliers helpd with that a LOT.
Wonder if my EGR Is ok, i'm troubleshooting a spurratic stumble at low rpm as well and have heard a bad egr could lead to it
(Someone correct me if im wrong
I'm also interrested in checking my EGR...
I just did my PCV valve, the old one looked sorta ok, but was pretty gunked up. Getting a pair of needle nose pliers helpd with that a LOT.
Wonder if my EGR Is ok, i'm troubleshooting a spurratic stumble at low rpm as well and have heard a bad egr could lead to it
#12
Originally posted by toby360
I think its lack of air, the engine would spin faster the more air enters the manifolds...
(Someone correct me if im wrong
I'm also interrested in checking my EGR...
I just did my PCV valve, the old one looked sorta ok, but was pretty gunked up. Getting a pair of needle nose pliers helpd with that a LOT.
Wonder if my EGR Is ok, i'm troubleshooting a spurratic stumble at low rpm as well and have heard a bad egr could lead to it
I think its lack of air, the engine would spin faster the more air enters the manifolds...
(Someone correct me if im wrong
I'm also interrested in checking my EGR...
I just did my PCV valve, the old one looked sorta ok, but was pretty gunked up. Getting a pair of needle nose pliers helpd with that a LOT.
Wonder if my EGR Is ok, i'm troubleshooting a spurratic stumble at low rpm as well and have heard a bad egr could lead to it
#13
Originally posted by Wild1
Great illustration!!! So, when vacuum is applied to the EGR while the engine is running, it should stall. Right? Is this because of the rush of excessive air?
Great illustration!!! So, when vacuum is applied to the EGR while the engine is running, it should stall. Right? Is this because of the rush of excessive air?
#14
Didn't mean to throw a curve... thanks for clearing that up Shoebox. So, by applying vacuum to the EGR... we are increasing the amount of exhaust gas entering the intake. That will add "spent" exhaust gases into the intake reducing the amount of burnable air causing the car to stuble or die.