i didnt have to twist mine much at all

 

Just keep in mind that the cam journals and bearings will all clear each other at the same time time so try to keep the cam "suspended" or at least let it down very gently as each journal is cleared, don't let it fall as that will be banging hard on the bearings and you don't want them scuffed. If you let it down gently, you'll have to pick it back up to continue pulling the cam out so the only reason to let it down will be to reposition your grip on the cam.
Hope that makes sense.

 

Makes good sense. Thank you. I think i may get the cam out today which is awesome. Im having some trouble pulling off the timing cover though. I dropped the oil pan about 1/4 of an inch but when i try and remove the timing cover it is pulling the rubber piece of the oil pan gasket with it... am i supposed to lift up on it ? or just pull it free?

 

The timing cover has to come off striaght forward, you can't slide it up any until its free of the waterpump shaft and the alignment posts that stick out about 1/4" at the lower part of the cover between the bottom bolts. You'll have to use a small flat head screw driver to carefully pull or slide the front part of the oil pan gasket down until it clears the timing cover.
Personally I've never had very much luck getting the pan gasket to seal again, its hard enough getting it to seal with a brand new gasket...once any oil is on the surface of the gasket, it won't seal even with rtv. Use UltraBlack rtv it seals the best...if it doesn't seal back, then doing the pan isn't all that bad once you get into it.....remove motor mount bolts, and then loosen the 6 subframe bolts until theres just 3 or so threads holding it, remove the top strut bolts, and then jack the motor up as high as it will go and the pan will slip right off after rotating the motor to get the front counter weight and rod connector up out of the way..
Removing the front hub for the timing cover is more of a daunting task for me

 

I dont know what magic you guys used to remove your timing covers without ripping the gasket...

I ended up tearing mine.. not on purpose, but it still tore. When i looked at how the gasket was wedge into the timing cover bottom there just seemed no way to get that off without ripping the gasket.

Also, alot of people told me to lower my oil plan, but my pan seemed to hit the power steering lines and/or steering rack before it really got any lower than about 3/4 of an inch.


But hey ... oil pan was leaking anyhow...

 

Did you remove the cam yet? If not here is a video for you. Keep in mind that I held the camera in my right hand while pulling the cam with my left so it's a fairly easy procedure. Be as gentle as possible. This is taken from my how to rebuild your Lt1 video...

 

Bingo. That's the way it should always be done. Three bolts at least 3.5" long. It gives far more leverage and less margin for error for either removal or installation.

 

Wow thanks for the video! I havent removed the cam yet.. I didnt have the long bolts.. I'll probably do it this weekend. i was too busy cursing my torn oil pan gasket.

 

He seems to really be banging it around in that video!!...I'd take much more care and go slower than what that video shows thats for sure if you're not planning on removing the entire block and putting in new cam bearings.

 

You are absolutely right. Way too rough taking it out.

 

I thought the cam banged around alot too. But hey give the guy credit.. he did it with one hand lol

 

not very smart unless the engine is a "throw away..."

 

The 3 long bolts work the best until you can get a good grip. Just take your time and it should come right out.

 

Right on.. just the like the video.. without the banging right

Just kidding.. thanks for posting. You went above and beyond.

 

Yep, I use longer bolts everytime too. Even if building it on a stand.