How Do I Put LS-1 Ignition on Lt-1
06-13-2003, 08:55 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: smog zone adjacent to a great lake
Posts: 1,462
It's not a kit! At one point in time (early on), another 'party' was to supply/be responsible for remaining components to make it a kit/package, however that party didn't follow through with original plans.
The LTCC is composed of the harness and opti signal conversion module.
And How successful is it?
No complaints from me.
The LTCC is composed of the harness and opti signal conversion module.
And How successful is it?
No complaints from me.
06-13-2003, 10:22 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Upstate New York,USA
Posts: 1,791
No complaints from me either. Terrific Product.
http://www.dw-zone.com/ltcc/ltcc.asp
www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/LTCC.htm
I've talked 3 other guys into using it too.
THe customer support is amazing as well. Bob Bailey (creator) is one-of-kind as far as customer satisfaction goes. Supergood.
Dave
http://www.dw-zone.com/ltcc/ltcc.asp
www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/LTCC.htm
I've talked 3 other guys into using it too.
THe customer support is amazing as well. Bob Bailey (creator) is one-of-kind as far as customer satisfaction goes. Supergood.
Dave
06-13-2003, 10:32 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Upstate New York,USA
Posts: 1,791
For me,... I got in on the Group Purchase (by 1 day before it was over) and bought mine for $350 worth of pennies. Got the LS1 coils a couple of months earlier on one of these boards Classifieds. All 8 plus the factory LS1 Harness (Not needed for the LTCC BTW) for $75 shipped from Florida to my Houston Texas Home.
06-14-2003, 09:18 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Upstate New York,USA
Posts: 1,791
Well, the benefits are these:
a. Hotter spark at the plug because each coil only fires one cylinder per firing sequence(2 crank revolutions) whereas the stock coil fires all 8. This gives the coils more 'saturation time'(time to build up a full charge for a spark command).
b. If your stock coil fails(stops working), your won't be able to drive it till you replace it. If a LTCC/LS1 coil fails, you can at least get to a safe place/home.
c. An opti is pretty much like any conventional distributor. Meaning it has a high voltage cap and rotor that will wear out and need to be replaced. The main unconventional aspect (and certainly, the aspect that warrants the most bitter of complaints) is the fact that it is mechanically inaccessible without removing various parts of the motor to even get to it to service it. Just like any other cap/rotor distributor, the high voltage (50,000 volts I believe for HEI and our cars) which etches away the end of the rotor as well as the posts inside the cap. Eventually bits of this carbonized (burnt) metal is flung off and accumulates in the bottom of the Opti. This might be okay if it weren't for the fact that the Optical sensor that tells the PCM when to fire weren't down there to be blinded by this debris. So by eliminating the high voltage portion of the distributor(Opti) function, we are eliminating the most common reason for failure of the Optispark.
The LTCC in extremely easy to install. It comes with a ready made, and generous length, wiring harness with factory quality weatherpack connectors for the coils and opti harness interface.
There are four 'unfinished ends' (tip of the wires have been stripped of insulation, ready to solder) that you, as the installer, will connect. Two pink wires (Hot/Power wire for the LTCC box and the coils themselves) are to be twisted together and are to be connected to the 12 volt wire going to your stock coil. The White wire (Spark command from the PCM) is to be connected to the stock Ignition Coil Module White wire. The remaining Yellow wire is only to be used if you have a 'Window Switch'(for turning on Nitrous, electric shifter, throttle stop, etc) or Rev limiter. If you don't use those devices, simply cut the unfinished tip off the wire, fold it up, secure the coil with a small zip tie and stuff it back into the LTCC split loom out of sight/harms way. You then pull the factory wiring harness plugs off the stock coil and stock ignition coil module and secure out of the way. Mounting the coils can be done in a variety of ways and is limited only to your imagination.
Some mount them like stock LS1 Fbodies. Some mount them in brackets hung from beneath the windshield cowl. George Baxter hung his on rods he fabricated just in front of and on either side of the harmonic balancer. I bought a stick of aluminum angle stock ($8), created a cardboard (old shoe box) template of the LS1 coil bracket, Traced/cut/drilled the shape of the template from the angle stock and put each bracket/coil on a valve cover bolt.
The common misperception is that the entire Optispark is a piece of junk. It's not! The optical portion is fantastically accurate and foolproof when it's 'vision' isn't obscured by debris or water.
The reason I went with the LTCC is 'prevention'. My stock 96 opti never failed in the 125,00 miles I've daily driven the car(I'd taken it apart 3 times and cleaned it in that interim though, just to be safe) but I knew it was a matter of time. I was actually in the midst of creating a box just like this when Arnie posted something about the LTCC.
No sense in re-inventing wheel!
a. Hotter spark at the plug because each coil only fires one cylinder per firing sequence(2 crank revolutions) whereas the stock coil fires all 8. This gives the coils more 'saturation time'(time to build up a full charge for a spark command).
b. If your stock coil fails(stops working), your won't be able to drive it till you replace it. If a LTCC/LS1 coil fails, you can at least get to a safe place/home.
c. An opti is pretty much like any conventional distributor. Meaning it has a high voltage cap and rotor that will wear out and need to be replaced. The main unconventional aspect (and certainly, the aspect that warrants the most bitter of complaints) is the fact that it is mechanically inaccessible without removing various parts of the motor to even get to it to service it. Just like any other cap/rotor distributor, the high voltage (50,000 volts I believe for HEI and our cars) which etches away the end of the rotor as well as the posts inside the cap. Eventually bits of this carbonized (burnt) metal is flung off and accumulates in the bottom of the Opti. This might be okay if it weren't for the fact that the Optical sensor that tells the PCM when to fire weren't down there to be blinded by this debris. So by eliminating the high voltage portion of the distributor(Opti) function, we are eliminating the most common reason for failure of the Optispark.
The LTCC in extremely easy to install. It comes with a ready made, and generous length, wiring harness with factory quality weatherpack connectors for the coils and opti harness interface.
There are four 'unfinished ends' (tip of the wires have been stripped of insulation, ready to solder) that you, as the installer, will connect. Two pink wires (Hot/Power wire for the LTCC box and the coils themselves) are to be twisted together and are to be connected to the 12 volt wire going to your stock coil. The White wire (Spark command from the PCM) is to be connected to the stock Ignition Coil Module White wire. The remaining Yellow wire is only to be used if you have a 'Window Switch'(for turning on Nitrous, electric shifter, throttle stop, etc) or Rev limiter. If you don't use those devices, simply cut the unfinished tip off the wire, fold it up, secure the coil with a small zip tie and stuff it back into the LTCC split loom out of sight/harms way. You then pull the factory wiring harness plugs off the stock coil and stock ignition coil module and secure out of the way. Mounting the coils can be done in a variety of ways and is limited only to your imagination.
Some mount them like stock LS1 Fbodies. Some mount them in brackets hung from beneath the windshield cowl. George Baxter hung his on rods he fabricated just in front of and on either side of the harmonic balancer. I bought a stick of aluminum angle stock ($8), created a cardboard (old shoe box) template of the LS1 coil bracket, Traced/cut/drilled the shape of the template from the angle stock and put each bracket/coil on a valve cover bolt.
The common misperception is that the entire Optispark is a piece of junk. It's not! The optical portion is fantastically accurate and foolproof when it's 'vision' isn't obscured by debris or water.
The reason I went with the LTCC is 'prevention'. My stock 96 opti never failed in the 125,00 miles I've daily driven the car(I'd taken it apart 3 times and cleaned it in that interim though, just to be safe) but I knew it was a matter of time. I was actually in the midst of creating a box just like this when Arnie posted something about the LTCC.
No sense in re-inventing wheel!
06-14-2003, 01:26 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Upstate New York,USA
Posts: 1,791
Here's a small (4Kb) mpg of my dyno on 5/31/2003 at MTI.
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/dyno531.MPG
I'd just LT1 edit loaded a new flash file that didn't have the best timing table in the world (timing not agressive enough at 34 degrees total timing at WOT) and so my numbers were off my best.
Corrected rear wheel hp/tq were 362/383 . Jayson took the RPM's to 6,800 rpm. Peak power occurred at 6,200.
I got 3rd place in MTI's Spring Break shootout in the 11 second index this past April. Here's a pic of me in the third elimination round at the shootout. The guy in the red LS1 says his car is normally a high 10 car at HRP(Houston raceway park). All of our numbers were down due to high heat/humidity by about 4 tenths. I tree'd him pretty well here since my front wheels are up about an inch and he's still sitting there
and this is a heads up .400 tree race.
http://www.minivette.com/SBSO/images/DSCF0110.jpg
All with the LTCC/LS1 coils in place!
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/dyno531.MPG
I'd just LT1 edit loaded a new flash file that didn't have the best timing table in the world (timing not agressive enough at 34 degrees total timing at WOT) and so my numbers were off my best.
Corrected rear wheel hp/tq were 362/383 . Jayson took the RPM's to 6,800 rpm. Peak power occurred at 6,200.
I got 3rd place in MTI's Spring Break shootout in the 11 second index this past April. Here's a pic of me in the third elimination round at the shootout. The guy in the red LS1 says his car is normally a high 10 car at HRP(Houston raceway park). All of our numbers were down due to high heat/humidity by about 4 tenths. I tree'd him pretty well here since my front wheels are up about an inch and he's still sitting there
and this is a heads up .400 tree race.http://www.minivette.com/SBSO/images/DSCF0110.jpg
All with the LTCC/LS1 coils in place!
