How many street driven LT1's are making 500+ to the wheel N/A?
#31
Not particularly, I had to once again search to even find what you were talking about. I didn't even revisit said post where you mentioned my car... which has never "underperformed" for what it has.
Yes, it has gone 12.0's with just a little cc503 cam.. not bad for a full weight street car on DR's back then.
Now it's gone 11.30's as the same full weight street car with room to go... on drag radials, all motor, no suspension work, etc.
More accomplishment than you've layed out factually. Don't act like I'm embarrassed as to my car's results, because ask anyone around, I'm 100% proud of my car's progress to date. You give me nothing to be bitter about when you tell me you have a sprayed 180k mile shortblock with a hotcam and stamped rockers.. I couldn't be any less impressed because I've seen plenty of 12 second versions of just that running around to care.
But if I were to start over, sink equal amounts of money into two shortblocks, I would have come out lightyears ahead if I had started on an LSx platform. And if deny that it just makes you look like an idiot.
Yes, it has gone 12.0's with just a little cc503 cam.. not bad for a full weight street car on DR's back then.
Now it's gone 11.30's as the same full weight street car with room to go... on drag radials, all motor, no suspension work, etc.
More accomplishment than you've layed out factually. Don't act like I'm embarrassed as to my car's results, because ask anyone around, I'm 100% proud of my car's progress to date. You give me nothing to be bitter about when you tell me you have a sprayed 180k mile shortblock with a hotcam and stamped rockers.. I couldn't be any less impressed because I've seen plenty of 12 second versions of just that running around to care.
But if I were to start over, sink equal amounts of money into two shortblocks, I would have come out lightyears ahead if I had started on an LSx platform. And if deny that it just makes you look like an idiot.
I wouldnt say light years ahead no, maybe a little. Same money into a LSX and a LTX...the playing field does level off when you get into aftermarket heads etc. The ONLY things is as of late is the L92 head that would make it cheaper(by a good stretch)...up until it was released it was closer than most people think...NOT ON THE DYNO, ON THE TRACK!
David
#32
Very good points, KID. There is a 600+ FWhp 396 LT1 out there with a very driveable torque curve. It idles quite smoothly ~900, pulls strongly from the teens, has a very flat torque curve, and peaks power in the low-mid 6000 range.
KID called it: The heads are not GM, but they are for an LT1 and were ported by one of the best in the country. It's not an LT1/4 intake either, but it is a modified cast aluminum one. And yes, the HR cam was very specific to the combination.
The owner wants a stealthy DD, so he's not braggin' nor even talking about it. I doubt if he's chassis dynoed it, but with 600+ on the engine dyno, 500 rw probably isn't much of a stretch. It's his fun car...a whole lot of fun.
No it's not cheap, either.
KID called it: The heads are not GM, but they are for an LT1 and were ported by one of the best in the country. It's not an LT1/4 intake either, but it is a modified cast aluminum one. And yes, the HR cam was very specific to the combination.
The owner wants a stealthy DD, so he's not braggin' nor even talking about it. I doubt if he's chassis dynoed it, but with 600+ on the engine dyno, 500 rw probably isn't much of a stretch. It's his fun car...a whole lot of fun.
No it's not cheap, either.
480+ rwhp N/A, Great Powerband.....super driveability, torquey (pulls easily up hills @ 45mph in 6th gear) idles @ 875 rpm. HR cam specific to the combo, not a LT1/Lt4 intake and heads are not GM but ported by one of the better porters in the DFW area. Even has 4 mufflers to keep it semi-quiet. Oh, wasn't cheap either.
As Lloyd Elliott put it after a ride. “A real sleeper, pulls super strong in 3rd gear after it hooks good.”
Only took me ten years of different combo's to find one that made good power with no compromises to either reliability or drivability. Think I have 90% of the gremlins squared away and time for another dyno session. Honestly think the car has 500 rwhp in it as it made the 480 some with a ported LT4 intake and not the current sheetmetal which everything says should make more power.
Unless I go with a different engine combo using better heads like SBC2 heads or 18 degrees……. honestly, can’t think of what else to do with the car. Don’t care what anyone says, it wasn’t easy or I’m not very smart or just not very lucky. One of the three…..maybe all.
my vote is: great heads, not going overboard with the cam but having enough, details, details, details and a lot of time working out issues and tuning. Now all of a sudden it sounds easy. Bet a Cave Man could do it.
Last edited by Denny McLain; 06-18-2007 at 05:06 PM.
#33
#34
It could, but not by me. Literally tore up three combo's trying to make solid roller cams work on a street car. Broken lifters, galled camshafts, lifter parts breaking the block!!! You name it. Whatever the secret of making them reliable is.......I don't know it.
#35
Denny, did you street drive the car ALOT? Sit in traffic alot, supposedly oil pressure and oil temp is the killer. What lifters and springs did you use? Also valve bounce is a killer.
I can't believe you are selling your car. I have never seen it...read alot about it though.
I hope my solid roller lives...we will see. I bought the new Comp Endurex solid lifter, Ferrea stainless valves, tool room springs, Xceledyne locks and retainers and shaft rockers....about the best you can get as far as I know.
David
I can't believe you are selling your car. I have never seen it...read alot about it though.
I hope my solid roller lives...we will see. I bought the new Comp Endurex solid lifter, Ferrea stainless valves, tool room springs, Xceledyne locks and retainers and shaft rockers....about the best you can get as far as I know.
David
#36
David from talking to guys that have the SR's living on the streets it the idling that kills them.
But if you notice the new trend in SR lifters id the HIPPO design which is supposed to prolong the life.
How much is not clear. I have a set of the Crower's going into mine and an hoping for the best.
But if you notice the new trend in SR lifters id the HIPPO design which is supposed to prolong the life.
How much is not clear. I have a set of the Crower's going into mine and an hoping for the best.
#37
Denny, did you street drive the car ALOT? Sit in traffic alot, supposedly oil pressure and oil temp is the killer. What lifters and springs did you use? Also valve bounce is a killer.
I can't believe you are selling your car. I have never seen it...read alot about it though.
David
I can't believe you are selling your car. I have never seen it...read alot about it though.
David
Driving…….Just plain ol driving in Dallas Tx. Not a lot of sitting and idling but some. A fair share of street racing and some track racing. Couldn’t get more than 2-3K miles before something broke or a cam galled.
Selling my car………..After owning the car for 10 years I'm kinda in disbelief that I'm entertaining selling it also. Been a killer toy and almost a way of life, but have about $60k in medical equipment I need to buy and for a while anyway, no time to play with it. It flat may not sell as it’s way to nice to give away and I’m not going to.
Met about every goal set out for the car with the last placing in a national level car show. Two months to paint it dissembling the body replacing everything, another month detailing the engine compartment and how many thousands of dollars later??. Never again!! What? For a $10.00 plaque.
#38
I put down 535 rwhp N/A with more left in it. Street driven.....not everyday but it does go out on some weekends. I could make it a driver if I spent alot of time on the driveability tuning but at this point it is not my daily driver so I really don't care. My advice is to build up a 475 rwhp hydraulic cammed 383 with stage II heads from PortPros, LE, AI....etc. You will be happy with that combo and have less issues to work through. It is hard enough to get traction with 400 rwhp on the street.........think of 500+ rwhp! I built my set-up for nitrous and I am thankfull it put down these #'s N/A but it took a lot to get there.
Tony Shepherd
Tony Shepherd
#39
I put down 535 rwhp N/A with more left in it. Street driven.....not everyday but it does go out on some weekends. I could make it a driver if I spent alot of time on the driveability tuning but at this point it is not my daily driver so I really don't care. My advice is to build up a 475 rwhp hydraulic cammed 383 with stage II heads from PortPros, LE, AI....etc. You will be happy with that combo and have less issues to work through. It is hard enough to get traction with 400 rwhp on the street.........think of 500+ rwhp! I built my set-up for nitrous and I am thankfull it put down these #'s N/A but it took a lot to get there.
Tony Shepherd
Tony Shepherd
David
#41
I thought it was a simple question.
1) LT engines, NO LS's.
2) 500 or more RWHP. Any dyno. If your making this much it doesn't really matter.
3) Street driven. I assume this means at least an occasional drive down the freeway, with a valid license and sticker if required.
4) N/A on pump gas. No spray, no blowers, no turbo's.
If I'm correct there have been just two, and one didn't say if it was on pump gas of not?
I think this is worthy of an answer, as this seem the limit for LT's, n/a on pump gas.
2) 500 or more RWHP. Any dyno. If your making this much it doesn't really matter.
3) Street driven. I assume this means at least an occasional drive down the freeway, with a valid license and sticker if required.
4) N/A on pump gas. No spray, no blowers, no turbo's.
If I'm correct there have been just two, and one didn't say if it was on pump gas of not?
I think this is worthy of an answer, as this seem the limit for LT's, n/a on pump gas.
#43
#44
I put down 535 rwhp N/A with more left in it. Street driven.....not everyday but it does go out on some weekends. I could make it a driver if I spent alot of time on the driveability tuning but at this point it is not my daily driver so I really don't care. My advice is to build up a 475 rwhp hydraulic cammed 383 with stage II heads from PortPros, LE, AI....etc. You will be happy with that combo and have less issues to work through. It is hard enough to get traction with 400 rwhp on the street.........think of 500+ rwhp! I built my set-up for nitrous and I am thankfull it put down these #'s N/A but it took a lot to get there.
Tony Shepherd
Tony Shepherd
But I’d say you were pushing the street driver stuff as anytime I see a FAST engine management system, obvious huge solid roller cam or you wouldn’t need the engine management system, filled block and vacuum pump on a car. In my mind that’s a race car. I can’t imagine passing state inspections or how it would fare in stop n go rush hour traffic on 1-35 when it hitting three figurers temp wise.
Seen some pretty killer race cars come out to the street races and they all claim to be “daily drivers.” Guess it’s all in the definition of what is considered a “street car.”
Killer car…… tuff squeezing it into the daily driver category, but I love it anyway. Bet it does very well at the street races. I'd be asking for a bunch of lengths based upon what I see.
#45
The question itself is simple....but flawed as some of us have pointed out.
Pump gas...stock PCM...driven to the track...once you get away from these, it is irrelevant what you have motor wise imo.
Pump gas...stock PCM...driven to the track...once you get away from these, it is irrelevant what you have motor wise imo.