How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
08-05-2004, 02:32 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 43
How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
Are symptoms of a bad ignition switch when you try to start the car, the key is hard to turn and then when you finally do, there is no cranking? The guages light up and everything but there is no attempt to start cranking.
IS it the key and little chip on it that causes this part to go bad? Or is the ignition switch a part on the steering column?
My car isnt starting so im about to change the ignition and key so was seeing all of yall had to buy 2 seperate parts from the dealer (key and ignition)
And is there a [how to'[] page on doing this job/
thanks
IS it the key and little chip on it that causes this part to go bad? Or is the ignition switch a part on the steering column?
My car isnt starting so im about to change the ignition and key so was seeing all of yall had to buy 2 seperate parts from the dealer (key and ignition)
And is there a [how to'[] page on doing this job/
thanks
08-05-2004, 02:54 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 2,521
Re: How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
My key got harder and harder to turn in the ignition cylinder. It ended up being a burned up ignition switch. When I say burned up I mean it- it got so hot for some reason that it started melting the plastic that it's made of, causing it to try and fuse parts together and be hard to turn 
It's kind of a pain in the *** to replace. You have to drop the underdash panels. The one that covers the part closest to the firewall, and the other one that is directly under the column is held on with two philips head screws, and two 7 millimeter screws. Once you have those things out of the way you loosen the nuts that hold the steering column up, and drop it down. I believe they are 12 or 14 millimeter. I would disconnect the battery before dropping the column- probably not needed, but I get weirded out when working around an airbag. After you drop the column down(it won't come out, it will just hang down) you can access the ignition switch assembly. It is screwed on top of the column. Also, the high beam switch for the lights are adjacent to the ignition switch. Take the assembly apart slowly, paying special attention to how it all fits together. If you take your time and pay attention you won't need an install page, it's straightforward. One hint: There is a little adjustment built in, I.E. you can move the ignition switch forward and backward on the column which can mess up the position of the linkage, so after you tighten it down in place, bolt the column up and test it to make sure it works correctly before you bolt the rest of the underdash on. Test the headlight high beam switch as well.
It's kind of a pain in the *** to replace. You have to drop the underdash panels. The one that covers the part closest to the firewall, and the other one that is directly under the column is held on with two philips head screws, and two 7 millimeter screws. Once you have those things out of the way you loosen the nuts that hold the steering column up, and drop it down. I believe they are 12 or 14 millimeter. I would disconnect the battery before dropping the column- probably not needed, but I get weirded out when working around an airbag. After you drop the column down(it won't come out, it will just hang down) you can access the ignition switch assembly. It is screwed on top of the column. Also, the high beam switch for the lights are adjacent to the ignition switch. Take the assembly apart slowly, paying special attention to how it all fits together. If you take your time and pay attention you won't need an install page, it's straightforward. One hint: There is a little adjustment built in, I.E. you can move the ignition switch forward and backward on the column which can mess up the position of the linkage, so after you tighten it down in place, bolt the column up and test it to make sure it works correctly before you bolt the rest of the underdash on. Test the headlight high beam switch as well.
08-05-2004, 02:59 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Henry, VA USA
Posts: 1,171
Re: How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
I had to replace mine about 3 years ago in my 95 Z28. When I turned the key, nothing happened. Not a SOUND, not a start click, battery, nothing. It would not do anything. It is either your ignition switch or maybe the starter
soleniod. But probably the first over the latter.
I didn't get to replace mine hands on, but from what I seen it didn't look to bad. I don't remember the price. I don't think it is your key, b/c you would probably get the Security light in the dash.
Anyway, the switch is obviously under the driver side dash, you should be able to see it once you take that plastic molding off.
Good luck, I am sure other will chime in!
soleniod. But probably the first over the latter.
I didn't get to replace mine hands on, but from what I seen it didn't look to bad. I don't remember the price. I don't think it is your key, b/c you would probably get the Security light in the dash.
Anyway, the switch is obviously under the driver side dash, you should be able to see it once you take that plastic molding off.
Good luck, I am sure other will chime in!
08-05-2004, 03:02 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Henry, VA USA
Posts: 1,171
Re: How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
Originally Posted by FastZinTennessee
My key got harder and harder to turn in the ignition cylinder. It ended up being a burned up ignition switch. When I say burned up I mean it- it got so hot for some reason that it started melting the plastic that it's made of, causing it to try and fuse parts together and be hard to turn
It's kind of a pain in the *** to replace. You have to drop the underdash panels. The one that covers the part closest to the firewall, and the other one that is directly under the column is held on with two philips head screws, and two 7 millimeter screws. Once you have those things out of the way you loosen the nuts that hold the steering column up, and drop it down. I believe they are 12 or 14 millimeter. I would disconnect the battery before dropping the column- probably not needed, but I get weirded out when working around an airbag. After you drop the column down(it won't come out, it will just hang down) you can access the ignition switch assembly. It is screwed on top of the column. Also, the high beam switch for the lights are adjacent to the ignition switch. Take the assembly apart slowly, paying special attention to how it all fits together. If you take your time and pay attention you won't need an install page, it's straightforward. One hint: There is a little adjustment built in, I.E. you can move the ignition switch forward and backward on the column which can mess up the position of the linkage, so after you tighten it down in place, bolt the column up and test it to make sure it works correctly before you bolt the rest of the underdash on. Test the headlight high beam switch as well.
It's kind of a pain in the *** to replace. You have to drop the underdash panels. The one that covers the part closest to the firewall, and the other one that is directly under the column is held on with two philips head screws, and two 7 millimeter screws. Once you have those things out of the way you loosen the nuts that hold the steering column up, and drop it down. I believe they are 12 or 14 millimeter. I would disconnect the battery before dropping the column- probably not needed, but I get weirded out when working around an airbag. After you drop the column down(it won't come out, it will just hang down) you can access the ignition switch assembly. It is screwed on top of the column. Also, the high beam switch for the lights are adjacent to the ignition switch. Take the assembly apart slowly, paying special attention to how it all fits together. If you take your time and pay attention you won't need an install page, it's straightforward. One hint: There is a little adjustment built in, I.E. you can move the ignition switch forward and backward on the column which can mess up the position of the linkage, so after you tighten it down in place, bolt the column up and test it to make sure it works correctly before you bolt the rest of the underdash on. Test the headlight high beam switch as well.
That is weird, the same thing happened to mine, and we couldn't figure out why. The ignition switch that was in there, it was burnt looking, and the plastic looked melted around the connectors. Strange. I have no idea why that happened. But mine was the exact same way.
08-05-2004, 03:19 PM
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mishawaka, IN
Posts: 1,770
Re: How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
Mine has gone out. And the connectors are on their way out.
My suggestion is buy a new switch and connectors and replace all that junk. And you might as well drop the steering column, no point in trying to replace it while it's up in there, you'll just frustrate yourself to death.
Go to shoebox's home page, he's got great r&r instructions for the ignition switch, and part #s to boot.
It's not too terrible if you're not in a hurry. It took me and a friend a couple hours.
My suggestion is buy a new switch and connectors and replace all that junk. And you might as well drop the steering column, no point in trying to replace it while it's up in there, you'll just frustrate yourself to death.
Go to shoebox's home page, he's got great r&r instructions for the ignition switch, and part #s to boot.
It's not too terrible if you're not in a hurry. It took me and a friend a couple hours.
08-05-2004, 04:18 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quad Cities
Posts: 609
Re: How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
I had to replace mine...TWICE. Within 6 months of each other. The first melted the plastic connector. The second I believe failed because of the melted connector. I replaced the switch and the connector and havnt had issues since.
Symtoms:
Erradic Gauges while driving (Speedo Jumping 40mph up, then all the way to zero, randomly)
intermittent power loss to dash (gauges die, etc. Car would stop responding, seemed to be idling.)
Smell of burning plastic
When key is turned to on, everything lights up, etc.. but when you turn to run the power seems to shut off. (CD Player, dome lights, etc stay on)
Symtoms:
Erradic Gauges while driving (Speedo Jumping 40mph up, then all the way to zero, randomly)
intermittent power loss to dash (gauges die, etc. Car would stop responding, seemed to be idling.)
Smell of burning plastic
When key is turned to on, everything lights up, etc.. but when you turn to run the power seems to shut off. (CD Player, dome lights, etc stay on)
08-05-2004, 05:09 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,714
Re: How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
How many? Enough people to where I thought I should write a procedure to replace it. It's a common failure item.
If you lower the column and detach the rod from the switch, you can then manipulate the key and see if it still hangs up or not. This will help you isolate the trouble to the key cylinder, the switch or even the rack mechanism in between.
It's a common failure item.If you lower the column and detach the rod from the switch, you can then manipulate the key and see if it still hangs up or not. This will help you isolate the trouble to the key cylinder, the switch or even the rack mechanism in between.
08-05-2004, 09:08 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 43
Re: How many of you have replaced the Ignition switch??
Well for some reason i thought the ignition switch was the ignition cylinder and having that replaced tomorrow. I had to get a new key cut out also which was another $25.......Has anyone had to replace their ignition cylinder? I hope this gets my car working and i dont have to replace the ignition SWITCH that yall are talking about !
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