LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

How much will factory bottom end hold?

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Old 02-13-2007, 02:50 PM
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How much will factory bottom end hold?

I am rebuilding the bottom end of my LT1 this summer, i plan to just pull it apart, re-hone the cylinder walls, install some clevite bearings, new rings, and probably polish the crank. I plan on putting on a LE2 set-up and will continue to spray a 100 shot. Do you think it will stay together?

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Old 02-13-2007, 02:56 PM
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If your gonna rebuilt it you might was well spend alittle extra for insurance.
Forged Rods and fairly cheap
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...22&CtgID=21452

Throw in a set of good forged pistons..
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...71&CtgID=16042

And go have fun!
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Old 02-13-2007, 02:59 PM
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Back when I had nitrous I was makin over 500rwhp on a stock 96k bottom end, then I thought better of it and took it off.
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Old 02-13-2007, 03:04 PM
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Splayed mains might be nice if affordable.JMHO
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Old 02-13-2007, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BUBBA
Splayed mains might be nice if affordable.JMHO
Nice yes, but not needed for what he's doing..
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Old 02-13-2007, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BUBBA
Splayed mains might be nice if affordable.JMHO
Yeah I wouldnt mind it, but this is a budget build while im in college.
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:01 PM
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I put multiple 10 lb. bottles through my car. never spraying below a 100 shot, and up to a 200 shot on the stock block with over 100k. Never any problems!
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 69gto96z
I am rebuilding the bottom end of my LT1 this summer, i plan to just pull it apart, re-hone the cylinder walls, install some clevite bearings, new rings, and probably polish the crank. I plan on putting on a LE2 set-up and will continue to spray a 100 shot. Do you think it will stay together?
If you make sure to over engineer the Nitrous kit... meaning, have ALL the failsafes in place so that it NEVER goes lean, and so that you cant ever (by mistake) spray it at too low of an RPM... it "should" hold for a long time........Iv'e been running a 190 shot of nitrous (at the crank) since august of 98 on the stock bottom end(lost count of how many bottle refills)......and for the last year and a few months I've been running a 125 Rear wheel HP shot of nitrous on top of the LE2 mods in my signiture......all is still well (knock on wood ).......Cylinder leakdown test was recently done and is still pretty much the same as when the car was new...and the cylinder pressure is still nice and even........good luck with yours..........Joe
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Old 02-13-2007, 11:07 PM
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Joe, that is good to know. I do have all the safety features. I have a fuel pressure switch, a mallory 685 box with timing retard and a window switch. Cant think of anything else I would need.
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Old 02-14-2007, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 69gto96z
Joe, that is good to know. I do have all the safety features. I have a fuel pressure switch, a mallory 685 box with timing retard and a window switch. Cant think of anything else I would need.
Yeah, you should be good to go ...... (if you havent already)...run colder plugs to get even further away from detonation.....After trying nearly everything out there, I like the Autolite 103's ......Joe
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:43 PM
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Yeah, I forgot to put that on there, I am running TR6's.
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Old 02-14-2007, 03:15 PM
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If its going to see any n20 I suggest springing for at least a cheap forged piston. A ping or two on spray and some hyper pistons will fall apart.

I know any suggestions that add several hunder dollars are hard, but your biggest single cost will be the machine shop anyways. Why spend a grand to put a stock motor back together?
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:19 PM
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There wont be any shop work involved except maybe magnafluxing the block. I can do it all myself. That is why I was trying to just stay stock on the bottom end so I didnt have to get it re-balanced.
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:55 AM
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Don't forget to use some ARP bolts for the mains and rods. That should help a little.
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-RATED94
Don't forget to use some ARP bolts for the mains and rods. That should help a little.
And the heads.
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