How to replace the WPump & Opti Seals - with pics! AND Oil Leak Help
#1
How to replace the WPump & Opti Seals - with pics! AND Oil Leak Help
Sticky?
Hey guys ... I wrote up this article on the Impala site a while back and I think
that its worth while to link to it here also. Its a step by step process with a
bunch of pics for replacing the opti seal, and WP seal in the timing cover. It
even has a drawing so you can make a tool to install the WP seal properly and
not ruin the seal (it must have the lip facing the right way!).
http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...TOPIC_ID=30984
Other helpful hints on LT1 oil leaks :
1. LT1 INTAKE MANIFOLD OIL LEAK: the intake manifolds leak quite often in
the front and back (my Impala had a "Waterfall" of oil out the back). Normally
you pull the intake, and change the gaskets. I bought gaskets, but didnt get
the time to do this drawn out repair, so I tried retorquing the intake according
to the sequence in my Haynes manual. That was about 50K ago! The oil leak
is SO insignificant that it never makes it to the ground, and the area is "dry".
2. LT1 FRONT MAIN OIL SEAL : another common oil leak is the front seal, I got
the GM replacement for my wifes 95 Camaro, and a Kragen purchased Chicago
Rawhide seal (PN 17286) for the 95 Impala. The GM one started to leak again
about a week after replacement. It went into the timing cover WAY too easy.
The CR seal needed to be pounded in (as you would expect). Your choice!
3. LT1 OIL LEVEL SENSOR : this one was kinda funny actually. I had a nasty
oil leak on my driveway. ICK! I thought the front seal went on the 95 Impala,
but after investigating, I found that the oil level sensor was leaking. I put a
wrench on it and tightened it up. About a day later I noticed that didnt help.
Turns out the GM sensor is a two piece design, and oil eventually leaks RIGHT
through the damn thing! Tightening wont fix it! I went to Kragen and ordered
the Niehoff PM OP25051, which is a one piece sensor. In the meantime, I got
a standard oil plug to seal the oil pan: Motormite PN 65221 (M20-1.50) and I
used a paperclip bent between the two pins on the connector to make that
stupid low oil light turn off.
Tom
Hey guys ... I wrote up this article on the Impala site a while back and I think
that its worth while to link to it here also. Its a step by step process with a
bunch of pics for replacing the opti seal, and WP seal in the timing cover. It
even has a drawing so you can make a tool to install the WP seal properly and
not ruin the seal (it must have the lip facing the right way!).
http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...TOPIC_ID=30984
Other helpful hints on LT1 oil leaks :
1. LT1 INTAKE MANIFOLD OIL LEAK: the intake manifolds leak quite often in
the front and back (my Impala had a "Waterfall" of oil out the back). Normally
you pull the intake, and change the gaskets. I bought gaskets, but didnt get
the time to do this drawn out repair, so I tried retorquing the intake according
to the sequence in my Haynes manual. That was about 50K ago! The oil leak
is SO insignificant that it never makes it to the ground, and the area is "dry".
2. LT1 FRONT MAIN OIL SEAL : another common oil leak is the front seal, I got
the GM replacement for my wifes 95 Camaro, and a Kragen purchased Chicago
Rawhide seal (PN 17286) for the 95 Impala. The GM one started to leak again
about a week after replacement. It went into the timing cover WAY too easy.
The CR seal needed to be pounded in (as you would expect). Your choice!
3. LT1 OIL LEVEL SENSOR : this one was kinda funny actually. I had a nasty
oil leak on my driveway. ICK! I thought the front seal went on the 95 Impala,
but after investigating, I found that the oil level sensor was leaking. I put a
wrench on it and tightened it up. About a day later I noticed that didnt help.
Turns out the GM sensor is a two piece design, and oil eventually leaks RIGHT
through the damn thing! Tightening wont fix it! I went to Kragen and ordered
the Niehoff PM OP25051, which is a one piece sensor. In the meantime, I got
a standard oil plug to seal the oil pan: Motormite PN 65221 (M20-1.50) and I
used a paperclip bent between the two pins on the connector to make that
stupid low oil light turn off.
Tom
Last edited by sbca96; 01-01-2007 at 07:48 PM.
#3
#4
from Kragen .. I suppose NAPA has it, as I mentioned it was a Niehoff. Its an
all plastic one piece sensor. I can not locate the picture I found that has a
comparison between the two sensors.
Here is the location, stock sensor shown :
Tom
all plastic one piece sensor. I can not locate the picture I found that has a
comparison between the two sensors.
Here is the location, stock sensor shown :
Tom
#5
Well, the replacement I got was plastic, but it was used. The original was metal, so I guess that's how you can tell the difference.
#6
Yes and no .. the replacement GM unit is metal and plastic still.
Here is my leaky one ...
Here is the comparison picture I was thinking of :
Tom
Here is my leaky one ...
Here is the comparison picture I was thinking of :
Tom
Last edited by sbca96; 01-01-2007 at 07:38 PM.
#7
thanks for the write up, it saved me from butchering another water pump seal, used your handy highlighter tool for placement of the forth seal and now NO leaks from the front. i had posted on here for help then came across your write up. posted the same link as a f/u on my own question
#8
Glad I could help. I hadnt checked the post lately and was surprised to see
its had over 7000 reads! Amazing. Thats why I figured I might repost over
here so more can benefit. I am not sure who to contact to suggest it become
a sticky. Glad the "tool" worked out. Thanks for the feedback, it makes the
time spent putting that together worth while!
Tom
its had over 7000 reads! Amazing. Thats why I figured I might repost over
here so more can benefit. I am not sure who to contact to suggest it become
a sticky. Glad the "tool" worked out. Thanks for the feedback, it makes the
time spent putting that together worth while!
Tom
#9
I bought a brass plug for the oil level sensor opening, drilled and tapped it for an oil temp sensor and I now read the oil temp in the pan.
Jumper the wires in the harness to keep from having a "Low Oil" light on the dash.
Just another data point.
Jumper the wires in the harness to keep from having a "Low Oil" light on the dash.
Just another data point.
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