LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

how to scan codes on a 94 Z?

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Old 02-20-2004, 05:12 AM
  #16  
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that black gunk is normal so long as its dry. gasket should only cost 3 bucks unless you go to pep boys then they want 10 bucks!!

they say its a dry gasket but i would throw sealant on it myself...
as for the rip it could be contributing to the problem as its unmetered air.
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Old 02-20-2004, 06:32 AM
  #17  
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Originally posted by licerio
when I cleaned my MAF i sprayed some all purpose cleaner, just a little bit on the screens,,does this mean i damaged my MAF? oops!
What kind of "all purpose cleaner"? You really shouldn't be using anything but "electronics" spray cleaner, or maybe some alcohol on a Q-tip. Anything else will not be good for the sensing element, and could leave a residue that's just as bad as what you cleaned off.

You keep mentioning "screens".... there is only on screen, on the inlet side. That is made of a paper/foil composite and shouldn't be "sprayed" with cleaner.

Also unclear what "connector" you pulled off to disconnect the MAF sensor. The connector is right in the middle of Shoebox's picture, and it connects right to the side of the MAF body, so its hard to understand how you could remove the wrong connector, and if you did, which one it would be.

Shoebox's MAF sensor

You need to seal those tears in the inlet elbow.... even something like duct tape (on the OUTSIDE) would provide a temporary fix. That air leak is really screwing things up, as noted in the post above.

The throttle body sounds like it needs a good cleaning. READ THE INSTRUCTION FIRST, before you start taking things apart and spraying things on them. The TB istself should be cleaned with "throttle body cleaner", not carb cleaner. There is an anti-carbon coating on the blades that will be damaged by carb cleaner. The IAC motor is a relatively delicate piece, and has to be handled with care. The pintle should not be moved by hand, unless it is done the correct way.

You will need 3 gaskets for the TB.... the upper cover gasket, the lower (IAC/coolant) plate gasket and the TB to manifold gasket. Do not damage the O-ring on the IAC motor.... it is only available with a new IAC motor. If you remove the TPS senor - a good idea before you start spraying cleaner - be sure to keep and re-use the foam rubber seal that goes around the shaft.
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Old 02-20-2004, 07:06 AM
  #18  
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Thank you for the detailed instruction as far as the plug by the MAF..if you look at shoebox's picture, I pulled the one on the right of the arrow. what is that.. I pulled it while the engine is running, and check engine light came on and the car died...

as far as duct tape,,for temporary, how much is the elbow from the dealership? thanks
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Old 02-20-2004, 08:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally posted by gsboriqua
that black gunk is normal so long as its dry. gasket should only cost 3 bucks unless you go to pep boys then they want 10 bucks!!

they say its a dry gasket but i would throw sealant on it myself...
as for the rip it could be contributing to the problem as its unmetered air.

the black stuff behind the throttle body plate is kind of wet..is that still normal?

also what is the size of the 4 bolt of the throttle body and what is the tool name (exact) to remove the IAC..thanks
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Old 02-20-2004, 02:20 PM
  #20  
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You might need to replace your intake manifold gasket if its oily wet. That should be nothing but carbon build up I believe. From my understanding there was even a recall to have those gaskets replaced on 94's

not sure about the bolt size. Go ahead and buy a tool kit.
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