Hub install tool - make my own?
03-19-2003, 02:30 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,213
Hub install tool - make my own?
I have seen a couple of threads regarding make a hub installer using threaded rod, a washer/plate/impact socket, and a nut.
My question is, how strong would the threaded rod have to be? I can only get stainless steel which I was told is equivalent to grade 2 strength. Would this be good enough? I will take care not to bottom out the rod in the crank threads, and will use the longest nut I can find....
This is to install a one piece fluidampr which is keyed.
My question is, how strong would the threaded rod have to be? I can only get stainless steel which I was told is equivalent to grade 2 strength. Would this be good enough? I will take care not to bottom out the rod in the crank threads, and will use the longest nut I can find....
This is to install a one piece fluidampr which is keyed.
03-19-2003, 02:41 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 1,639
I would get around a 2.5 or 3" grade 8, the gold bolts, with the right threads, and like 4 grade 8 washers, i think they make them, if not, normal ones, and put it on that way. Just take the bolt out of the crank hub and thread it into the crank. Unless those things work completely different which they may, but thats how I did it with my balancer
03-19-2003, 02:49 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,213
yep they are installed as one. I am reluctant to use a bolt because I do not want to risk ruining the threads in the crank snout....
Using a threaded rod turned finger tight about 1cm short of bottoming out will minimize stress on the crank threads since the nut on the rod will take the load. I just want to make sure that a stainless steel rod will be strong enough (grade 2 equivalent). I guess the worst case scenario is that i strip the rod at the nut and just throw it away.
Using a threaded rod turned finger tight about 1cm short of bottoming out will minimize stress on the crank threads since the nut on the rod will take the load. I just want to make sure that a stainless steel rod will be strong enough (grade 2 equivalent). I guess the worst case scenario is that i strip the rod at the nut and just throw it away.
03-19-2003, 03:00 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 1,639
Good question, they are pretty tight threads, and there is about an inch, I dont see why not, unless you need a 4ft long pipe for leverage to turn the nut I wouldnt forsee a problem doing it your way. Or what you could do is if you can find about a 4", if thats long enough, grade 8 bolt, you could cut the head off and rethread it, i think you can thread even those bolts, maybe not though.
That is your last resort anyways.
03-19-2003, 05:40 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,148
Dont hammer on the crank, get a 1/2" longer crank bolt. You can find the thread info here:
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/damper.html
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/damper.html
03-20-2003, 12:52 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,213
Well the keyed fluidampr slid on about halfway by hand, and it was really easy to use the crank bolt and a spacer to pull it on the rest of the way.
No need to build/use a installer tool.
However a press-fit stock hub might be tougher to get on, making this tool a good idea.
No need to build/use a installer tool.
However a press-fit stock hub might be tougher to get on, making this tool a good idea.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
10-31-2016 11:09 AM
1LEThumper
Forced Induction
40
07-14-2003 12:45 PM