I need a 10 second motor only combo
05-03-2005, 01:45 PM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Richardson, TX USA
Posts: 648
Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
Two Options
1. Cut every unecessary piece of metal off your car, get down to about 2400 lbs and wellah.
2. Afr 210's fully ported, solid roller, gen7 to spin above 7000 rpm, great exhaust and intake, and wellah.
There ya go.
Michael
1. Cut every unecessary piece of metal off your car, get down to about 2400 lbs and wellah.
2. Afr 210's fully ported, solid roller, gen7 to spin above 7000 rpm, great exhaust and intake, and wellah.
There ya go.
Michael
05-03-2005, 03:52 PM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
Posts: 2,725
Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
For N/A youre gonna need to reduce weight and get some extra cubes and compression. There are people that have done it with 355s but it really takes a killer combo. If your car is full weight youre gonna need more than 450 RWHP. If you can get the car down to 3000 or a little more you can do it with less.
05-03-2005, 04:53 PM
#7
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05-03-2005, 05:15 PM
#8
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
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Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
To run 10's with an LT1 isn't doesn't require any exotic parts, not even 396 cid, solid roller, or DFI.
For example, my last car was a 3rd gen Firebird in full street weight, including A/C. It ran 11.09 at 122.6 mph all motor on a mild combination. It was a 383 with 11.3/1 compression (all cast bottom end), AFR 210 Race Readys out the box, GM 847 cam (234/242 hydraulic roller), Victor Jr intake/Holley 750, SLP 1 3/4" shorties, and a single 3" exhaust. I never even had to rev it over 6200. It had a Vigilante 3200, 700R4, 3.73's, and 26" drag radials.
To build a high 10 second LT1, I'd do the same thing, but use a 58 mm TB and an LT4 intake with the runners raised, do some mild port work to the AFR 210's, and go with a more aggressive cam, maybe 240/248 using Comp Extreme hydraulic roller lobes. Some Hooker LT's couldn't hurt with bullet mufflers also.
For example, my last car was a 3rd gen Firebird in full street weight, including A/C. It ran 11.09 at 122.6 mph all motor on a mild combination. It was a 383 with 11.3/1 compression (all cast bottom end), AFR 210 Race Readys out the box, GM 847 cam (234/242 hydraulic roller), Victor Jr intake/Holley 750, SLP 1 3/4" shorties, and a single 3" exhaust. I never even had to rev it over 6200. It had a Vigilante 3200, 700R4, 3.73's, and 26" drag radials.
To build a high 10 second LT1, I'd do the same thing, but use a 58 mm TB and an LT4 intake with the runners raised, do some mild port work to the AFR 210's, and go with a more aggressive cam, maybe 240/248 using Comp Extreme hydraulic roller lobes. Some Hooker LT's couldn't hurt with bullet mufflers also.
05-03-2005, 05:23 PM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
I'm a motor guy but before I worried about the HP part of this...
I would call up Billingsley and ask him what you need suspension wise.
Then take weight out.
Then a good head cam package. If you have a car that dead hooks, 3000lbs and good heads and cam you could go 10's
Bret
I would call up Billingsley and ask him what you need suspension wise.
Then take weight out.
Then a good head cam package. If you have a car that dead hooks, 3000lbs and good heads and cam you could go 10's
Bret
05-03-2005, 06:23 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: In a house by the bay
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Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
Definitely get the car on a diet.
Definitely get the car setup to cut very low 60' times. 1.5 or preferably better.
If you don't have the money for a set of AFR's, don't worry cause you don't really need them either. We were doing this way back when the good heads were the "turbo 292's".
You need a very healthy cam and my choice would be a solid. Just less trouble in the long run. You need to cam it to peak at ~7k unless you want to go aftermarket EFI. Buy good lifters and a rev-kit. You need to make sure your dynamic compression is 8.5-9.0:1.
Good headers, good exhaust, all the bolt on stuff.
You'll need top-shelf porting on stock castings and you'll want the intake ported to the same degree. Get as much mass out of the valvetrain as you can afford. Either go to rocker stands or tie the studs together with a girdle. Yeah, the centerbolt variety aren't the best, but they're better than nothing IMO.
If auto, work with Coan, JW, whoever you like, on a custom converter. If 6-speed, I'd just fork over the bucks for a street twin and be done with it. You'll need plenty of gear out back (12 bolt) and all of that will depend on the tire diameter, weight, tranny, camshaft and converter you decide to run.
You can knock a good deal of weight out of the front by going to a tubular k-member and upper/lower control arms. I'd go with a set of Hal shocks and an adjustable torque arm from BMR or Spohn. Adjustable rear control arms and control arm relocation brackets. Relocate the battery and run an air bag in the right rear spring for preload and dialing in the car's pull off the line.
You'll also need lots of fuel and lots of safety equipment.
Should get you started....
Good luck.
-Mindgame
Definitely get the car setup to cut very low 60' times. 1.5 or preferably better.
If you don't have the money for a set of AFR's, don't worry cause you don't really need them either. We were doing this way back when the good heads were the "turbo 292's".
You need a very healthy cam and my choice would be a solid. Just less trouble in the long run. You need to cam it to peak at ~7k unless you want to go aftermarket EFI. Buy good lifters and a rev-kit. You need to make sure your dynamic compression is 8.5-9.0:1.
Good headers, good exhaust, all the bolt on stuff.
You'll need top-shelf porting on stock castings and you'll want the intake ported to the same degree. Get as much mass out of the valvetrain as you can afford. Either go to rocker stands or tie the studs together with a girdle. Yeah, the centerbolt variety aren't the best, but they're better than nothing IMO.
If auto, work with Coan, JW, whoever you like, on a custom converter. If 6-speed, I'd just fork over the bucks for a street twin and be done with it. You'll need plenty of gear out back (12 bolt) and all of that will depend on the tire diameter, weight, tranny, camshaft and converter you decide to run.
You can knock a good deal of weight out of the front by going to a tubular k-member and upper/lower control arms. I'd go with a set of Hal shocks and an adjustable torque arm from BMR or Spohn. Adjustable rear control arms and control arm relocation brackets. Relocate the battery and run an air bag in the right rear spring for preload and dialing in the car's pull off the line.
You'll also need lots of fuel and lots of safety equipment.
Should get you started....
Good luck.
-Mindgame
05-03-2005, 07:12 PM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Posts: 2,743
Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
I agree that you need a low 1.5 60' time, but that can be done with a mild gear, an off-the-shelf Vigilante or Yank converter, and radial tire.
With all due respect, Mindgame, I think your recommendation is a bit elaborate for "only" high 10's. The weight reduction is unnecessary (though it makes the engine-part easier), the cam doesn't have to be "very healthy" (which I enterpret to mean 260+ at .050), you don't have to peak it at 7000 (6000 would work for thos goals), light-weight valvetrain and stud girdles are not required at 6200, neither is all the suspension work. Some poly bushings, stiffer rear shocks, and front sway bar delete should do it just fine.
With all due respect, Mindgame, I think your recommendation is a bit elaborate for "only" high 10's. The weight reduction is unnecessary (though it makes the engine-part easier), the cam doesn't have to be "very healthy" (which I enterpret to mean 260+ at .050), you don't have to peak it at 7000 (6000 would work for thos goals), light-weight valvetrain and stud girdles are not required at 6200, neither is all the suspension work. Some poly bushings, stiffer rear shocks, and front sway bar delete should do it just fine.
05-03-2005, 07:22 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: In a house by the bay
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Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
I'm thinking more about building something that runs low 10's - 10-flat. I should have been more specific but maybe I went off the deep end on a combo that was just to touch the 10's?
My idea of a "very healthy" cam would still be streetable in the 240-250 @.050 range.
Just how I'd approach it, but yeah... you could do it with less extravagance.
-Mindgame
My idea of a "very healthy" cam would still be streetable in the 240-250 @.050 range.
Just how I'd approach it, but yeah... you could do it with less extravagance.
-Mindgame
05-03-2005, 08:07 PM
#15
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Location: In a house by the bay
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Re: I need a 10 second motor only combo
Hey, glad I get your approval Mike.
Been a few years but I've been down this road a few times with building 10 sec (or better) cars....
Went 9.11 in a 68' Camaro with a 360, leaf spring suspension and all steel body (~3100 lbs). 60's were usually in the low 1.3 second range on 10.5" tires.
My 66' Nova... high 1.3 low 1.4 60' and mid 9-second 1/4's.
Another 68' Camaro I recently sold, FI 385, leaf springs, 10.5" slick, went consistent low 10's with 60's in the 1.5 sec range.
So maybe I'm overshooting things but yeah, I know what it takes to get there. Just bumping things up from low 11-second car to mid 10's is quite a leap in itself.
You young guys are lucky though.... you have a lot better heads than we had when I was growing up racing. The LT1 head itself is miles ahead of those old castings.
Things are easier today that's for sure...
-Mindgame
Been a few years but I've been down this road a few times with building 10 sec (or better) cars....
Went 9.11 in a 68' Camaro with a 360, leaf spring suspension and all steel body (~3100 lbs). 60's were usually in the low 1.3 second range on 10.5" tires.
My 66' Nova... high 1.3 low 1.4 60' and mid 9-second 1/4's.
Another 68' Camaro I recently sold, FI 385, leaf springs, 10.5" slick, went consistent low 10's with 60's in the 1.5 sec range.
So maybe I'm overshooting things but yeah, I know what it takes to get there. Just bumping things up from low 11-second car to mid 10's is quite a leap in itself.
You young guys are lucky though.... you have a lot better heads than we had when I was growing up racing. The LT1 head itself is miles ahead of those old castings.
Things are easier today that's for sure...
-Mindgame