I need advice on engine rebuild
06-03-2010, 08:17 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 108
I need advice on engine rebuild
Hello all,
I tore my car down this past weekend for a LE2 swap but found a chipped cam bearing. I decided to yank the engine and do a bottom end rebuild so I can keep it running for the long term.
I don't know very much about a how to pick a good combination of parts, so hopefully I can get some input from the board. The car will be a weekend cruiser, maybe less than a 1000 miles a year. I have all the supporting parts for the top end kit.
After doing some research, I was thinking of using this kit if the machinist says my stock crank is still good:
Ai Budget 355cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Utilizes Stock 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft (Not Included!)
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
$1195* - Your local machinist will need to add their preferred bearings & balance your crankshaft to the new reciprocating assy.
or this one if the crank is shot:
Ai Forged 383cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Compstar Forged 4340 3.75" Stroke Crankshaft
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-16cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
Main and Rod Bearings Included
Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar!
$2196 - Ready for Assembly by your local machinist.
I just had a couple questions:
1.) Is this a good plan?
2.) Whats the typical machine costs to get something like this done?
3.) Are the only differences between the two kits the pistons and crank?
Thanks in advance!
I tore my car down this past weekend for a LE2 swap but found a chipped cam bearing. I decided to yank the engine and do a bottom end rebuild so I can keep it running for the long term.
I don't know very much about a how to pick a good combination of parts, so hopefully I can get some input from the board. The car will be a weekend cruiser, maybe less than a 1000 miles a year. I have all the supporting parts for the top end kit.
After doing some research, I was thinking of using this kit if the machinist says my stock crank is still good:
Ai Budget 355cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Utilizes Stock 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft (Not Included!)
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
$1195* - Your local machinist will need to add their preferred bearings & balance your crankshaft to the new reciprocating assy.
or this one if the crank is shot:
Ai Forged 383cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Compstar Forged 4340 3.75" Stroke Crankshaft
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-16cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
Main and Rod Bearings Included
Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar!
$2196 - Ready for Assembly by your local machinist.
I just had a couple questions:
1.) Is this a good plan?
2.) Whats the typical machine costs to get something like this done?
3.) Are the only differences between the two kits the pistons and crank?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Larsv8; 06-04-2010 at 08:49 PM.
06-03-2010, 08:23 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,129
Sounds reasonable, I am finishing up a build on a 97 LT1, 1400 for a stock short block and then another 600 for the top end and final assembly. I would expect the extra cost you are running into to be from the upgraded parts. Good luck.
Charlie
Charlie
06-03-2010, 09:01 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 108
You had 2g cost just in machine work?
06-04-2010, 08:50 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 108
Hello all,
I tore my car down this past weekend for a LE2 swap but found a chipped cam bearing. I decided to yank the engine and do a bottom end rebuild so I can keep it running for the long term.
I don't know very much about a how to pick a good combination of parts, so hopefully I can get some input from the board. The car will be a weekend cruiser, maybe less than a 1000 miles a year. I have all the supporting parts for the top end kit.
After doing some research, I was thinking of using this kit if the machinist says my stock crank is still good:
Ai Budget 355cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Utilizes Stock 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft (Not Included!)
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
$1195* - Your local machinist will need to add their preferred bearings & balance your crankshaft to the new reciprocating assy.
or this one if the crank is shot:
Ai Forged 383cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Compstar Forged 4340 3.75" Stroke Crankshaft
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-16cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
Main and Rod Bearings Included
Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar!
$2196 - Ready for Assembly by your local machinist.
I just had a couple questions:
1.) Is this a good plan?
2.) Whats the typical machine costs to get something like this done?
3.) Are the only differences between the two kits the pistons and crank?
Thanks in advance!
I tore my car down this past weekend for a LE2 swap but found a chipped cam bearing. I decided to yank the engine and do a bottom end rebuild so I can keep it running for the long term.
I don't know very much about a how to pick a good combination of parts, so hopefully I can get some input from the board. The car will be a weekend cruiser, maybe less than a 1000 miles a year. I have all the supporting parts for the top end kit.
After doing some research, I was thinking of using this kit if the machinist says my stock crank is still good:
Ai Budget 355cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Utilizes Stock 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft (Not Included!)
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
$1195* - Your local machinist will need to add their preferred bearings & balance your crankshaft to the new reciprocating assy.
or this one if the crank is shot:
Ai Forged 383cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:
Compstar Forged 4340 3.75" Stroke Crankshaft
Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged Pistons (-16cc)
Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
Main and Rod Bearings Included
Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar!
$2196 - Ready for Assembly by your local machinist.
I just had a couple questions:
1.) Is this a good plan?
2.) Whats the typical machine costs to get something like this done?
3.) Are the only differences between the two kits the pistons and crank?
Thanks in advance!
06-05-2010, 12:01 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,705
Machine costs could be anywhere from 500-1500 depending on how good of a job they do/how pricey the shop is.
Get a few quotes, see if you can take look around a shop. typically you want a very clean shop.
The 2nd kit is a 383, the pistons are a different cc and the it comes with a crank.
You could get a kit from summit racing for 650, it only comes with forged pistons and rings, bearings, etc. You would re use your stock rods and crank, put ARP bolts into the rods for some more strength. This will be a cheaper route, it wont be as strong tho....
how much power do you want? Just heads and cam??? do the summit route than.
Get a few quotes, see if you can take look around a shop. typically you want a very clean shop.
The 2nd kit is a 383, the pistons are a different cc and the it comes with a crank.
You could get a kit from summit racing for 650, it only comes with forged pistons and rings, bearings, etc. You would re use your stock rods and crank, put ARP bolts into the rods for some more strength. This will be a cheaper route, it wont be as strong tho....
how much power do you want? Just heads and cam??? do the summit route than.
06-05-2010, 02:52 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 108
Machine costs could be anywhere from 500-1500 depending on how good of a job they do/how pricey the shop is.
Get a few quotes, see if you can take look around a shop. typically you want a very clean shop.
The 2nd kit is a 383, the pistons are a different cc and the it comes with a crank.
You could get a kit from summit racing for 650, it only comes with forged pistons and rings, bearings, etc. You would re use your stock rods and crank, put ARP bolts into the rods for some more strength. This will be a cheaper route, it wont be as strong tho....
how much power do you want? Just heads and cam??? do the summit route than.
Get a few quotes, see if you can take look around a shop. typically you want a very clean shop.
The 2nd kit is a 383, the pistons are a different cc and the it comes with a crank.
You could get a kit from summit racing for 650, it only comes with forged pistons and rings, bearings, etc. You would re use your stock rods and crank, put ARP bolts into the rods for some more strength. This will be a cheaper route, it wont be as strong tho....
how much power do you want? Just heads and cam??? do the summit route than.
As long as it can handle the LE2 package, I am happy.
06-10-2010, 11:53 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,129
Cut out all the guess work and buy a short block from Golen...I hear nothing and have seen nothing but great things from them.
06-10-2010, 02:03 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,129
06-10-2010, 07:58 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 108
Well I dropped the engine off at the machinist this morning.
At minimum he is going to hot tank it, dissassemble, check for problems, do bearings/plugs, reassemble, put all my new parts (heads/cam) on and paint. He quoted me 200 for that, which I thought was pretty reasonable.
If the crank is good but the pistons/rods are shaky I will go with the AI 355 kit.
If the crank is bad, I'll go with the 383 setup.
We'll see how it all turns out I guess. Thanks for info all
At minimum he is going to hot tank it, dissassemble, check for problems, do bearings/plugs, reassemble, put all my new parts (heads/cam) on and paint. He quoted me 200 for that, which I thought was pretty reasonable.
If the crank is good but the pistons/rods are shaky I will go with the AI 355 kit.
If the crank is bad, I'll go with the 383 setup.
We'll see how it all turns out I guess. Thanks for info all
06-11-2010, 06:18 PM
#15
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,825
