If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
10-11-2005, 04:59 PM
#1
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If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
Does it mean the waterpump is bad if it leaks? I was just wondering because I replaced the gaskets and it still leaks and put silicone on the outer plate with the bolts and it still leaks, im thinking it's from the waterpump bolts because the car stays under 180
10-11-2005, 05:20 PM
#2
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
If it leaks out the weephole, it is usually time for replacement. If leaking somewhere else, you need to find out why. You should use thread sealant on the bolts.
10-11-2005, 07:53 PM
#3
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
Dont drive it with it leaking antifreeze out of the pump. Its just asking for the Opti to take a **** on you. Unfortunatly, GM thought it was smart to mount the distributor where they did.
Antifreeze + Opti =
Antifreeze + Opti =
10-13-2005, 04:44 PM
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
Originally Posted by HardcoreRM125
Dont drive it with it leaking antifreeze out of the pump. Its just asking for the Opti to take a **** on you. Unfortunatly, GM thought it was smart to mount the distributor where they did.
Antifreeze + Opti =
Antifreeze + Opti =
10-13-2005, 05:09 PM
#5
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
Originally Posted by SSConceptz
Yeah it already runined the opti (I think the opti was a great design) and it is leaking out the weephole. What the hell is it leaking there for?
10-13-2005, 05:30 PM
#6
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
Originally Posted by Dave89IROC
the "weephole" actually vents the bearing, but if the internal seal leaks(antifreeze old and acidic, bearing failing, ect.), it leaks coolant out the hole
10-13-2005, 05:32 PM
#7
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
IF its constantly dripping out the wheep hole its timeto replace it. According the the service manual some weepage is normal. They suggest trying to correct it by using these pellets you add to the radiator from GM which may relap the surface of the leak stopping the leak. They also mentioned results may not be apparent until after a week or two. This was only for minor leaks, if your is gushing out the weep hole time for a new WP. WP's arent too bad to replace. Its just a pain if the gasket is stuck on real good ...
10-13-2005, 08:20 PM
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
Originally Posted by SSConceptz
Couldn't I just replace the bearing etc?
10-14-2005, 04:12 PM
#11
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
So if I find the parts would it be better to do it myself? Also someone told me I can take mine to Autozone I think and give it in as a core and get a reman for like $45
10-14-2005, 04:55 PM
#13
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
i had to replace my water pump 2times in three months because of that stupid weeping hole ,mine wasnt reman either it was a brand new one to boot , my pump has a lifetime warranty on it too
10-14-2005, 05:03 PM
#14
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Re: If the waterpump leaks does it mean that it's bad?
could be on its way out - go ahead and get a reman from autozone ($~50 after core). Its a pretty easy swap, just drain coolant, remove lines/hoses (make sure you have rags/towels EVERYWHERE) and just unbolt the pump.
Get a razor and some (180 grit maybe?) sandpaper, scrape (with the razor) as best you can to get all the gasket material off and then sand the gasket surfaces on the pump itself and on the block. Don't let shavings get in the coolant passages, make sure you sand the surfaces down really well so no gasket material remains. Also make sure you score (scratch marks) the surfaces really well - this helps the gasket material seal a LOT better. MAKE SURE YOU USE THREAD SEALANT ON EVERY DAMN BOLT YOU USE (not loctite) - Follow the torque specs for the pump in your haynes manual (i believe around 30 lb/ft for the big ones and in a particular pattern ... I just swapped sides putting each bolt back on and tightened them in 3 seperate increments, then finally made sure they were all well tightened well). Reconnect everything, refill and bleed the coolant system then you're all done!
Get a razor and some (180 grit maybe?) sandpaper, scrape (with the razor) as best you can to get all the gasket material off and then sand the gasket surfaces on the pump itself and on the block. Don't let shavings get in the coolant passages, make sure you sand the surfaces down really well so no gasket material remains. Also make sure you score (scratch marks) the surfaces really well - this helps the gasket material seal a LOT better. MAKE SURE YOU USE THREAD SEALANT ON EVERY DAMN BOLT YOU USE (not loctite) - Follow the torque specs for the pump in your haynes manual (i believe around 30 lb/ft for the big ones and in a particular pattern ... I just swapped sides putting each bolt back on and tightened them in 3 seperate increments, then finally made sure they were all well tightened well). Reconnect everything, refill and bleed the coolant system then you're all done!
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