shoebox

I guess I may have looked at the linked post, but I didn't see any background info relevant to this thread. That was pretty much a thread hijack as well. Oops.

I guess the trouble is intermittent now because in one sentence you say it works and in the next you say it doesn't.

I really do hesitate to get in on a thread when it starts off with complaints and blame. In most cases, it is very counter-productive to finding the actual source of the problem. You have to be clear, detailed, analytical and logical to correctly troubleshoot a problem.

LT4orbust

I know!! I used to work at a GM dealer. But if you need it down now,at least thats how i worked.I'm way behind on their systems so i can't help on this subject.

Heatmaker

"I guess the trouble is intermittent now because in one sentence you say it works and in the next you say it doesn't."

That's just how random the problem is. The car works regular... turn off...comeback... then nothing. All i did yesterday was take the gathered info and try a couple test to find out that the VAT's system is causing the problem. Since I had no aid of a "theft" light. Using your diagrahm and Getsome17's advice I was able to narrow it down. So something is wrong with the VAT's. Whatever it is it's serious enough to keep a car down for 24 hours. Don't see why all day yesterday I couldn't start the car... but as soon as I tried this morning it worked even though I did nothing at all. Something has gone bad... any how of course I'd be angry... This crap cost me my new Job. If you depend on a certain means of transpo to get from point A to point B and it fails on you... how are you to feel? When you spend so much time and money invested in a car.... the least thing you can expect from it is to work. Replacing parts get's old and very $$$ very quickly. I'm just like the next guy... trying to move faster on a budget.

Trmpt63529

you should really test the vats system.....when you bypass it and it runs and then quits ..is because the vats controls the fuel pump too. put a volt meter on the two white wires at the bottom of the column and see if the ohms change when you stick the key in.....it should change when you put it in and should stay changed when you turn the key to on and ignition. if it doesn't read any ohms then the two white wires on the ignition switch have broken off (search the forum...its a very common problem), another problem to check, i had this problem with my z28, get out lock the door with your key fob...then unlock it manually with the key. see if that helps.

Trmpt63529

and if you are selling the car...i'm interested!

LT4orbust

I've seen too many simple things like a bad internal battery problem(correct voltage but no amperage) and bad fuses that look good , don't overlook anything. Maybe take a closer look at the connectors , try turning your headlights on while cranking it, see if they dim to much??? I'd get a wiring diagram and track it down

95 Z/28 LT1

Maybe you have a bad ground.

scoobysnax83

man, biting my nails all the way through this one. I really can't stand someone who rants in a post. Yea it sucks. Suck it up or sell it. Anyway, you hit the nail on the head with this...

You more than likely have a dirty "reader" so to speak or a bad connection to the "reader. Bypass the key resistor used by the VATS system under the dashboard and go from there. I lost a set of keys once and had to spend 2 days with resistors testing each resistance individually by waiting in 10 minute intervals with MP's breathing down my neck saying they were gonna tow my car. Rob probably remembers that one. He was my best friend during that issue.

If you didn't mess it up with the alignment you probably messed it up with the ignition switch replacement.

O yea and one more thing that I may have not mentioned....

Suck it Up!

O yea, and one more thing. Registered since 1969 and your just a registered user now, Rob. What's up with that? I really don't like the new board at all.

But, I guess I'll suck it up.

Heatmaker

I'm willing to bet it's the key resistor also... Becasue under the dash I'm getting a good reading from the white wires...and my car is now starting.
My key reads at 1.862 and the vats wires are reading the same. So while I was testing I pulled the vats conencter apart and started the car up... and just as before it was doing what it did yesterday...(except my Theft light was flashing this time ) So it probably is that... and since nether of the keys I have worked I'm betting it's an issue with the wires... I got some resistors from radio hut ... So I guess were ready for war next time.

Thanks everyone for helping me out...it is much appreciated...

scoobysnax83
"I lost a set of keys once and had to spend 2 days with resistors testing each resistance individually by waiting in 10 minute intervals with MP's breathing down my neck saying they were gonna tow my car."

Been there before with the Police when my M6 threw me the bird... it sucked very much.


Trmpt63529
"and if you are selling the car...i'm interested!"

It was justa joke...I'm too attached to my ride.


I easily get pissed at my car because I've spent 3 years rebuilding it... and now simple things keep getting in the way of


LT4orbust
"I've seen too many simple things like a bad internal battery problem(correct voltage but no amperage) and bad fuses that look good , don't overlook anything. Maybe take a closer look at the connectors , try turning your headlights on while cranking it, see if they dim to much??? I'd get a wiring diagram and track it down"

Yes... things are easy to track when you have a good diagram. The one in my haynes book is... "below average" ... time to get a real shop manual.


95 Z/28 LT1
"Maybe you have a bad ground"

I checked most of the grounds the first time this happend last week. I freshend them up with some sand paper... and Electronics cleaner.