installing crankshaft hub
#19
well, i guess i'll head out to the garage in a few minutes, im freaked out, ive spent 2 years pouring money into this project , lol, if i screwed it up in one day i'm a complete idiot. It actually wasnt my idea to pull out the hammer, you know how some dads are :P BRUTE FORCE WILL WORK!! =/
#21
http://shbox.com/1/hub.jpg there is the hub
http://shbox.com/ci/balancer_hub.jpg
Go get the stun gun you got hidden in your closet ans zap dad in the kidneys!
All the stuff i am talking about is for a late LT1 mid late 90's
http://shbox.com/ci/balancer_hub.jpg
Go get the stun gun you got hidden in your closet ans zap dad in the kidneys!
All the stuff i am talking about is for a late LT1 mid late 90's
#22
crap. ok im confused, i got an underdrive pulley from march, and apparently it goes first, then the balancer, thats what the paper said that came with it to install it, that pic u got there only shows the balancer, is this all ok ?
#24
Take a deep breath and take the pully or balancer off so you got a bare hub. Much easier to work with. Make sure to lube the hub and crank good if you pull it off. It goes on a bit hard just dont beat the crap out of it. (too much) A few nice blows with a block of wood and you should be able to get the bolt in without the thick washer. If dad twitches hit him with the stun gun again!
#25
ok heres what happen : I went out to the garage, stopped using the large washer, the bolt reached, so i tightened it, and it went in a bit, tightened it till the crank started moving, but theres still silver i see thats sticking out rather than the t hing being flush to the crank, is this wrong? mebbe it goes in more -- newbie me :O
#26
Where are you located in Chicago? I am in Plainfield... Just get yourself a long 7/16 -20 threaded rod so you can bottom out the threaded rod into the crank so there is no chance of stripping the crank threads.... I ask where you are cause I can get some for you......
#28
It may be too late, but this is how the hub should be oriented. The raised line on the hub should be in the same position as the dot on the crank gear. If you lined it up with the keyway, that's wrong. It probably won't bother you, though. There is usually no balancing done at the front of the engine. You won't be able to use the pulley arrow to tell you what position the pistons are in, though (unless you re-mark it by however much it is off).
IMO, pulling the hub on with the bolt is a bad idea. Talk to the people that have stripped the threads out of the front of crank by doing it and you will know what I mean. Better to use a threaded rod, washers and nut to pull the hub on (that's the exact premise of how the proper hub install tool works).
IMO, pulling the hub on with the bolt is a bad idea. Talk to the people that have stripped the threads out of the front of crank by doing it and you will know what I mean. Better to use a threaded rod, washers and nut to pull the hub on (that's the exact premise of how the proper hub install tool works).
Last edited by shoebox; 06-27-2004 at 08:02 AM.
#30
Originally posted by shoebox
IMO, pulling the hub on with the bolt is a bad idea. Talk to the people that have stripped the threads out of the front of crank by doing it and you will know what I mean. Better to use a threaded rod, washers and nut to pull the hub on (that's the exact premise of how the proper hub install tool works).
IMO, pulling the hub on with the bolt is a bad idea. Talk to the people that have stripped the threads out of the front of crank by doing it and you will know what I mean. Better to use a threaded rod, washers and nut to pull the hub on (that's the exact premise of how the proper hub install tool works).