I did a quick forum search and didn't see any posts about this so I figured I would post.

I need to replace all the heater and radiator hoses on my 95 Z28 Lt1. Quite frankly it looks scary (pricey) as hell. I am going to have to do it cheap but want it to work and look reasonably decent.

How hard is it to replace the hoses, which ones can be spliced into the weird reverse flow aluminum fittings? Which can't?
How much should it cost?
Is there any post replacement procedure for making sure the cooling will work correctly?
Any help will be very much appreciated.

 

As far as the heater hoses go they are actually sections even though it appears one peice with the factory clamps. The factory clamps are pretty easy to cut off with a hacksaw(or cut off tool) and screwdiver(just dont cut too deep or will damage the metal filling the hose slips over. There is a flow control valve in it also so may or may not need to replace it too. Im thinking I replaced all mine including the flow control valve for under 100 bucks. If I remember correct it was $200 + to get a new assembly from the dealer. Im guessing the radiator hoses would be had for under a $100 also.


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If your not familiar with shoebox website it is one of the best resources for the lt1 guys. I will get you the link. I believe he has the details on cutting the heater hose factory clamps and probably most of the info and pictures.


Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

 

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids


Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

 

Yeah I am well aware of Shbox. I actually looked at it again last night and say the procedure for cutting the connectors off. The more I loo at it the more I think I might be able to use bulk hose for a lot of it, and am finally getting around to doing the throttlebody bypass so that will cut down on the hoses.
Luckily I also found coupons at coupon cabin (my sister in law told me about it) for autozone and advance.

Unfortunately, The reason behind me doing this isn't an old faulty hose (they all do need to be replaced. turns out the Water Pump has went bad and pukes all the coolent out last night in traffic, getting the serpentine belt wet so it was slipping, pulling out into traffic with out steering was scary for a second!

So now I have to replace the waterpump...and since I am at it time to replace the cap and rotor on the opti as well as the plugs and wires.

Awesomeness.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Any pointers on changing the water pump? Looks surprisingly easy.

 

Remember the coupler when you install the pump.


Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

 

read the current thread " changed water pump now have oil leak" or something similar to that. Being very careful not to damage the drive seal is important as well as having the o-rings in place and the coupler. Depending if either seal was leaking may be time to replace the seals.(the thread includes a link with good pictures and instructions and even part numbers) Dont forget to loctite rotor screw as well. I could see bulk hose work fine a a few of the heater hose connection but if I am not mistaken the ends at the water pump are two different diameters. I almost want to say one is larger diameter on one side that the other side also(flared). I very well may be wrong on that.


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So far everything was going good until i got to the middle bolt on the drivers side of the water pump, first it is a nut then there is a bolt buried deep in there, how in the hell do I get to it?

Looks like I am going to have to take the coil and all kinds of other crap off then take the aluminum accessory drive thing off.

 

Coil, no, but you do have to remove the AIR pump. You will also find one of the bolts on the other side slightly obscured by the p/s pulley, but you should be able to manage it.

 

No I HAD to take the coil, IAC loose on it's little piece that it holds on to, then I had to take the accessory rail off that held that.

getting the crank pulley off was a magjor pain in the ***. Tried everything finally broke down and rented a puller and came right off.

I was worried about the opti since the WP dumped everywhere. There was a oily mix in there. I cleaned it out and it looked decent afterwards. No rust.
Put a new cap and rotor on it and sealed it up with RTV around the top.

put the crank pulley back on with a bunch of anti-seize.

I have been taking pics and am planning to do a write up if anyone is interested.
It's from a corvette site but this thread has helped a lot:
Replacement Optispark and Water pump install - Part 1 (includes pictures) - Corvette Forum

I already have half the engine off, I have a leaking exhaust issue I need to fix from hurridly changing the starter a few months ago, and I am between jobs so I have the time. I am willing to pull whatever there is to get to the spark plugs.

What do I need to pull to get to them?

 

Are you THE shoebox?

if so i love your site. Helps us all out a lot!

 

Never had to touch that stuff on mine to replace the pump. Al that is covered in my cam removal guide.

Everyone has their favorite way to do plugs. Whatever you must remove or do to reach them is subjective to the person doing the work.

Yes I am. Thank you.

 

I am totally wrong. The front of the engine was so dirty I thought I had to take off the the coil and IAC. But today when I bolted it back on I saw that I didn't actually have to take it off. I stand corrected.

It didn't hurt to take it off and clean it though.

I had a long lasting oil leak that took me forever to track down. Finally I discovered it was the passenger side valve cover. To many mechanics with air tools over tightening. Recently got that fixed.

Have you guys seen how much coolant costs now a days? MAN!
$15 for 50/50????

 

Oh, a little bragging. The car has 213,100 miles and is still in the original optispark (water pump was too) I opened it up and it had a little oily mix in it. Was mostly clean. I cleaned it up pretty nicely and put a new cap and rotor on it and sealed the top with RTV. I am hoping it will last me a few more hundred thousand miles.

 

Can anyone tell me the difference between the 95 spark plugs and the 96-97 spark plugs?
I bought a tune up kit on ebay years ago from a guy that didn't need it and got an amazing deal. Oly problem was it was from a 96. I shouldn't have any issue switching the plugs should I?