BRENTT94Z

Ive searched the forums trying to find simular issues that Im curently having.

Watching my scanmaster I have between 2-4 degrees of timing being taken out @ Idle. At WOT a max of 7 degrees is taken out which is what my PCM has been programmed to take out max. The catch is I have no Knock counts and I just replaced my KM with a LT4 KM.

Any Ideas??? Please Help

Also watching my BLM's I do have the common as we all know it w/ larger cams,
SPLIT BLM's.
My L BLM's are reading 108 At Idle and my Right side is reading 132. WTH is the deal here. 02 readings are simular, between the 2. Cell16 issue.

Please dont hesitate to voice your opinions.
Thanks
Brentt

BRENTT94Z

So, nobody has had this issue or what. Please help me out here guys, Im loosing hair over this everyday.

1racerdude

Lt-4 KM will do ya NO good like I have been saying for a long time. Do a board search and get the inline resistor from Radio Shack and install in your knock circuit.

BRENTT94Z

How will this inline resistor help me if I have no exhisting knock counts, Much less the wasted money on the LT4 KM?

gmr speed

As for pulling timing at idle it might have something to do with your solidroller. Most people including myself, delete the ks with a solidroller. Your valvetrain is to loud for the sensor. That might fix all your proplems. Also what program you running?

Deenasty

as for the split blm's I would consider running an open loop tune.

Injuneer

First, you have to understand that there are more things that control knock retard than the knock sensor. It is completely possible for the knock count to remain stationary, but for the knock sensor to be sending a knock signal. Knock counts seem to have some connection to things like burst knock, various combos of throttle position and MAP readings, etc. It is very common to see data logs with knock retard, but no increase in the knock count, and logs with large increases in the knock count, but no knock retard.

As far as the sensor.... the LT4 KM is a filter for the known noises that roller rockers make. There is no way you can just assume its going to filter the noise signature of a solid roller camshaft.

I run a solid roller, and no knock sensor. The tune is backed by numerous engine and chassis dyno pulls, and for severe applications like a 300-shot, I only use fuel from a single source, with known quality. That's one way to minimize the risk of no knock sensor. My setup was put together by one of the top tuners on the East coast (authorized installer/tuner for MoTeC, Accel/DFI, FAST, Haltech and E'motive) and he indicated that there was no way around the problem. He had played with filter circuits that some people had devised, and couldn't find any that was reliable.

Mindgame

Try this for the split BLM's.

Ditch the knock sensor.

-Mindgame

BRENTT94Z

I guess Ill delete the knock sensor. Thanks for your help guys. Happy to know Im not the only one runing a Solid. On a another note, I did swap PCM's w/ the same tune file and so far I have no timing being pulled out at Idle nor WOT, but I do still have split BLMS though. Only when the car goes in closed loop. Its not as bad as it was w/ the other PCM. Originally it was 108blm on the left. Now it averages 112-114. I checked for exhaust leaks and vacume leaks and didnt have much luck last night on either. I did read up alittle on Injuneers way of determining vacume leaks, on his website. I may try that tonight. So what I gather here is, I need to keep an eye on what cell numbers the PCM goes into, accelerating in 4th gear up to 2000 rpms and then do the same from 2000 and up, correct?

Mindgame

Brent,

Did you follow the link I posted to LJ's site? I've ironed out a few LT's with split BLM problems following his advice.

If you stay on top of your engine tune & run good fuel, then there's absolutely no reason to keep the knock sensor.

-Mindgame

BRENTT94Z

I just checked it out, thanks for the link man, That had some good pointers, Have you tried that setup yet? Im not real sure how long this split blm issue has been occuring, but I didnt truely notice it until I put Nitrous Works Wet plate back on. I just wonder if that could have any effect on this. The plate goes between the throttlebody and the Intake.