93TA

looking for some opinions... i'm getting a cam installed in my car, and the shop that is doing it, 'strongly suggests' i get one of the jegs keyed crank hubs. i always thought u only needed one if you had a blower? i don't mind buying it if i need it, just dont want to buy it for no reason. what do you guys think?

rclearyiii

I dont think you really need it unless you are going to run a blower either.

pro94lt

Save your money

NJ-LE

Why not? Cheap insurance.
What's the cost of having a machine shop cut a keyway in the stock hub?

PWR SHFT

Cheap insurance for what? The hub is a pressed on fit part. The damper is neutral ballanced so if it does spin, which is very unlikely, there will be no negative effect.

mzgp5x

I have one on my 97ss. I do run a D1 Procharger. I like how the machined hub fits on the crank. It is undercut for easy alignment of the key, and, is very easy to align on the crank snout. I have had a stock hub w/ a keyway cut, but, very difficlt to align due to no undercut while pressing on. It destroyed my front cover hub seal mount. I use an installer from Summitracing.com. Lube it up before install. B.

NJ-LE

Also, if it slips then checking/setting lifter preload becomes more of a hassle.

PWR SHFT

Smart thing to do with a blower. A lot of guys double keyway with moderate and up boost.

NEVER lube an interference part!. If it is difficult getting on, bake it in the oven to expand it. Although keyways help slippage, its the interference fit that really hold on the hub.


Don't understand how. There are no timing marks or timing pointer on an LT1 to determine where the pistons are in relation to TDC.

Injuneer

There is a line on the hub, and an arrow on the LT1 damper, and you can align it to sit a 12:00 o'clock at #1/#6 TDC (as the factory did when they built the engine). But if the hub is free to move, the arrow becomes unreliable.

PWR SHFT

You learn something new every day!