Jim_H

I decided to throw on my Kooks headers and Kooks Y-Pipe which I had lying around for a few months.

The quality is excellent and I am very happy with the spacing between the headers and the k-member/frame. I was a little disapointed with the lack of space between the oil filter and driver side header. I also had to remove the oil cooler in order to fit any oil filter on.

My remaining questions for those with Kooks are simple:

1) How do you tighten the spark plugs which are second-closest to the firewall on both banks? The only thing I can think of is a offset wrench.

2) What do most do to connect the y-pipe to the cat-back. I am assuming you have to bring to an exhaust shop to weld it together.

I still have to put the starter back in and add some coolant since I removed the oil cooler. Thanks for any input.

CANTONRACER

I run Kooks 1-3/4" stepped to 1-7/8" with a 3" collector...I could not find any oil filter small enough so I installed a oil relocation kit. $50 and I have to run a Ford part now...

Then the starter was an issue....I bought the smallest starter at my local speed store (Summit Racing) and it barely fits. $240

Then I had an issue of keeping my sparkplug wires off my nice headers...so I bought some 3000 degree sparkplug sheaths...$60 and sore fingers

And you know those monster ports that came with your Kook's...those ports are smaller than my ports so gaskets are becoming a PITA to me.

Also, with my Canton oil pan the low oil sensor went bye bye.....

You could just run some band clamps...

tagz

I usually use a 5/8 spark plug socket, the one with the hex head on the socket end. I put it on without a rachet and use a wrench to tighten

CANTONRACER

The only sparkplug that gives me a problem is # 5.

2QUIK6

#6 is pretty tough to get to, the 5/8" spark plug socket I have won't fit over the plug with the header in the way, so I took a 5/8" socket, drill the end out so the spark plug would fit thru it, then welded a handle onto it at about 110* angle, worked like a champ and I don't have to remove the starter either to get to it.

always faster

I ve connect my kooks to my magnaflow cat back with a butt joint band clamp.All the i need to do was cutting off 3 inch on the cat back pipe and that was it.

All the plug can be taking out with a standard plug socket and a ratchet or an open wrench except the number 6(3rd one on pass side).The normal socket would not fit.I think i need the short slp modified socket and an open wrench.

Has far has the filter im using the stocker(pf454 i think)i can reach it easily with my hand to unscrew it and all i need to do to make it pass between the pan and the headers is a small pry bar.

No starter issue.

The Engineer

I have Kooks and really like them. I use the short oil filter and it isn't any problem to install, or remove. I have a Moroso LT oil pan on my new engine and the combination of the pan and headers (both items) makes the starter difficult. Number 6 plug is not easy.

I'm sure you will like your Kooks once you get them installed.

WD

2000GTP

I have the Magnaflow catback and the i-pipe is slightly over 3 inches which allowed it to slip right over my y-pipe so I could connect it with a band clamp. Not sure what catback you are using though.

Jim_H

Unfortunately, I cannot get a spark plug socket or any socket on #5 or #6. There is simply not enough room. I may go looking for an offset wrench today and hopefully that will solve the issue.

I have an SLP 2otl exhaust. There is probably an 1/8" gap around the kooks y-pipe. Will a band clamp still work? Also, where can you find band clamps?

I am a little worried about the starter as it did look tight. I will try to install tonight.

2000GTP

That is alot of gap, not sure how well a band clamp will seal that.

Jim_H

I thought the same. I figure I will need to have it welded at an exhaust shop. I may have them put a flange on to allow for easier removal.

2000GTP

That is probably the route I would go, especially if you have to disassemble it in the future, it will be that much easier to remove three bolts then to have to grind off a weld.

NJLT1SS

Kooks 1 3/4 to 1 7/8, 3" collectors, custom 3" to 4" y pipe (done by Mufflex) to a 4" Mufflex cat back with a Flowmaster 40 series race muffler:

















Nick

Jim_H

Nice set-up. It looks like you relocated the oil filter. I was able to remove the oil cooler and I believe I have enough room now.

I am still hoping to find a wrench to get on to #5 and #6 spark plugs.

mark94

I use the short oil filter and stock starter with no issues. Before I installed the y-pipe, I took it to a muffler shop and had then re-size it to fit over my SLP catback pipe and then used one of the band clamps to connect it. To change the plugs, I use a craftsman 5/8' offset box wrench. You can get them all with this one wrench.