Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
01-29-2005, 01:44 PM
#1
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Location: Moore Oklahoma
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Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
I just finished installing Kooks 1 ¾” LT1 headers and off-road Y-Pipe on my 1997, Z28 (w/ front 02s, rear 02 simulators, air and EGR). The Kooks headers really fit great and are everything they’re advertised to be! I would definitely recommend them for anyone with an F-Body, LT1. You will not find a better LT1 header, all aspects considered. I spent a considerable amount of time trying to determine which long-tube header would be the best for my LT1 and now I’m sure I made the right choice with the Kooks!
First, the headers are very high quality, fit great and stainless steel doesn’t require coating. They install easy, plug access is great (all plugs), ground clearance is good for long tubes and the Y-Pipe fits very well into the existing exhaust system. Also, the starter and oil filter are easy to remove and reinstall with the Kooks. And, it feels like the Kooks, along with the large Y-Pipe and no Cats have created a large gain in HP! I’m looking forward to putting my Z28 on the dyno to see what the actual HP gain is. Also, the car really sounds great now with the Kooks!
My son and I took our time installing the Kooks and Y-Pipe to ensure everything was done correctly. And, we learned a lot during the installation. So, if anyone has any questions about the Kooks LT1s, or the installation, I’ll be happy to answer any questions.
Also, I designed and installed an aluminum heat shield for the Y-Pipe path on the driver’s side. I would highly recommend the heat shield for any F-Body long-tube and Y-Pipe installation (not just Kooks), as the poly fuel lines and brake lines are extremely close to the Y-Pipe on the drivers side. The passenger side has a factory heat shield.
Oh yes, I bought my LT1 Kooks at Scoggins-Dicky, Lubbock Texas.
First, the headers are very high quality, fit great and stainless steel doesn’t require coating. They install easy, plug access is great (all plugs), ground clearance is good for long tubes and the Y-Pipe fits very well into the existing exhaust system. Also, the starter and oil filter are easy to remove and reinstall with the Kooks. And, it feels like the Kooks, along with the large Y-Pipe and no Cats have created a large gain in HP! I’m looking forward to putting my Z28 on the dyno to see what the actual HP gain is. Also, the car really sounds great now with the Kooks!
My son and I took our time installing the Kooks and Y-Pipe to ensure everything was done correctly. And, we learned a lot during the installation. So, if anyone has any questions about the Kooks LT1s, or the installation, I’ll be happy to answer any questions.
Also, I designed and installed an aluminum heat shield for the Y-Pipe path on the driver’s side. I would highly recommend the heat shield for any F-Body long-tube and Y-Pipe installation (not just Kooks), as the poly fuel lines and brake lines are extremely close to the Y-Pipe on the drivers side. The passenger side has a factory heat shield.
Oh yes, I bought my LT1 Kooks at Scoggins-Dicky, Lubbock Texas.
01-29-2005, 02:24 PM
#2
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
Nice report...I feel exactly the same way. 
And I too have the Kooks 1 3/4 LT's with their highflow catted Y-pipe on my LS1, so like you, I agree they are by far and away the best header (longtube or not) on the LT1/LS1 aftermarket.
Truly great quality, fit/finish, darn good flow, and provide an awesome sound over the manifolds... 
Mike
And I too have the Kooks 1 3/4 LT's with their highflow catted Y-pipe on my LS1, so like you, I agree they are by far and away the best header (longtube or not) on the LT1/LS1 aftermarket.
Truly great quality, fit/finish, darn good flow, and provide an awesome sound over the manifolds... Mike
01-29-2005, 08:04 PM
#6
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
If im not mistaken those 1 3/4" longtubes are well over a grand. Like 1200-1400? Those things better be washing my dishes and doing my laundry for that kind of $. Ill stick with hooker coated long tibes thanx. You may get what 5hp from the kooks for double the price? Hookers fit greta, last a long time, and put down great #s. For about hal the price. I cannot see how nayone can reasonably justify the added expense of the kooks. Unless you got $ to burn, in which case tell me ill send you my paypal adress!
01-29-2005, 08:29 PM
#7
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
Originally Posted by 1 Nasty Bird
If im not mistaken those 1 3/4" longtubes are well over a grand. Like 1200-1400? Those things better be washing my dishes and doing my laundry for that kind of $. Ill stick with hooker coated long tibes thanx. You may get what 5hp from the kooks for double the price? Hookers fit greta, last a long time, and put down great #s. For about hal the price. I cannot see how nayone can reasonably justify the added expense of the kooks. Unless you got $ to burn, in which case tell me ill send you my paypal adress!
01-29-2005, 08:46 PM
#8
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Location: Moore Oklahoma
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
The Kooks LT1 headers w/ EGR and air injection ports were about $770 and then another $208 for the off-road Y-Pipe (w/o cats) from S&D. Total $978, ask for Kris at S&D.
The headers came with the standard 6-point black header bolts, typical header gasket and high quality stainless steel band clamps for the collectors and Y-Pipe. However, I used ARP stainlees 12 point bolts (1" long w/ washer) and Earls header gaskets (a real high quality item). The 12 point bolts make it a lot easier to get a boxed end wrench on at the right angle and the ARP SS 12 points look really good.
I would rather send I little too much for something of real quality and value, as opposed to saving some money and then ending up with some junk on my car! Again, I spent a considerable amount of time looking over all aspects (good/bad, coating, plug access, Etc.) of the long tube headers available for the LT1s and know my choice with the Kooks was the right choice! I also visited the Kooks factory on Long Island when I was there with work and while I was still trying to decide on headers (I'm from Oklahoma). I was very impressed with their facility and all header products.
The headers came with the standard 6-point black header bolts, typical header gasket and high quality stainless steel band clamps for the collectors and Y-Pipe. However, I used ARP stainlees 12 point bolts (1" long w/ washer) and Earls header gaskets (a real high quality item). The 12 point bolts make it a lot easier to get a boxed end wrench on at the right angle and the ARP SS 12 points look really good.
I would rather send I little too much for something of real quality and value, as opposed to saving some money and then ending up with some junk on my car! Again, I spent a considerable amount of time looking over all aspects (good/bad, coating, plug access, Etc.) of the long tube headers available for the LT1s and know my choice with the Kooks was the right choice! I also visited the Kooks factory on Long Island when I was there with work and while I was still trying to decide on headers (I'm from Oklahoma). I was very impressed with their facility and all header products.
01-29-2005, 09:39 PM
#9
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Location: CHI-TOWN
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
Ok i thought the headers alone were like 1200. Around 700ish really isnt that bad, hookers are low 600s. So another 100 bux for a noticably better header may be worth it. If your spedning taht kinda dough on a header might as well move up to the best. But how much is overkill? I dunno, kinda wishing i got kooks now insteada the hookers, oh well. Its like buying a computer, its obsolete before you plug it in.
01-30-2005, 12:13 AM
#11
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Location: SACHSE, TX
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
just wanted to say that i agree i got these headers and i love them too. my car is real low and i never bottom them out. and for most of the headers they sit higher than my slp sfc do
01-30-2005, 08:51 AM
#12
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
I'll get some installed pictures of the Kooks LT1 headers, Y-pipe and driver's side heat shield posted when I have some extra time. I had to leave on a two week business trip a few days after I completed the installation. I'm currently in Atlanta GA and close to the Atlanta Motor Speedway (AMS). We're Iced-in here.
On the installation:
(1) You "do not" have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack-up the engine. Although, you will need the car up on jackstands high enough, or on a lift lift to slide the headers into place from underneath the car at a 45 to 50 degree angle.
(2) Driver's side; you'll first need to remove the steering column u-joint assembly along with the plastic covers (the covers will not be reused). To accomplish this, remove the lock bolts on each end of the u-joint assembly (column & steering sector gear box). Slide the assembly further up on the steering column while removing the steering sector end, then slide the u-joint assembly back off the steering column from underneath the car. You may need to use a wooden dowel and hammer to tap the u-joint assembly (up, then down). I didn’t even remove the oil filter and the header slipped in from underneath without any problems. Reinstall the spark plugs and plug wires ensuring the 90 degree boots are turned so they don’t touch the header tubes. An old trick for plug installation, is to use a section of 3/8” rubber fuel line slipped over the plug ceramic. You position the plug in the head and then rotate the hose as a long flex coupling until you’re threaded in and ready for the socket.
(3) Passenger’s side; the starter needs to come out along with the alternator. Before installing the header, you should use some of the heavy-duty aluminum insulation tape (heating and air item) to wrap the starter wring harness and the connector and wire for the right front wheel ASB sensor. The ABS sensor wiring is on the frame and somewhat close to one of the header tubes. Once this is accomplished, slide the header up from underneath the car. Re-install the spark plugs and plug wires ensuring the wires are clear of the header tubes. The factory plug wire paths are good for the Kooks, just make sure the wires are in their normal path and the 90 degree boots are at the correct angle, so they not touch the header. The alternator and starter go in last. We left off one of the alternator support rods that went to the front header bolt on port #2. The factory alternator bracket and the other support rods (there are several) are more then adequate. Also, the starter was easy to install with the Kooks.
(4) Y-Pipe connection; The factory exhaust pipe (single pipe) behind the y, is 2 ¾”. We cut the factory pipe to length to match the Kooks Y-Pipe outlet which is necked-down to match the factory 2 ¾” pipe. We had a muffler shop swedge (increase the diameter) of the factory pipe for a slip-fit over the end of the Kooks Y-Pipe. The lowest part of the exhaust system is where the Y-Pipe crosses over and I have 3 ¾” ground clearance.
On the installation:
(1) You "do not" have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack-up the engine. Although, you will need the car up on jackstands high enough, or on a lift lift to slide the headers into place from underneath the car at a 45 to 50 degree angle.
(2) Driver's side; you'll first need to remove the steering column u-joint assembly along with the plastic covers (the covers will not be reused). To accomplish this, remove the lock bolts on each end of the u-joint assembly (column & steering sector gear box). Slide the assembly further up on the steering column while removing the steering sector end, then slide the u-joint assembly back off the steering column from underneath the car. You may need to use a wooden dowel and hammer to tap the u-joint assembly (up, then down). I didn’t even remove the oil filter and the header slipped in from underneath without any problems. Reinstall the spark plugs and plug wires ensuring the 90 degree boots are turned so they don’t touch the header tubes. An old trick for plug installation, is to use a section of 3/8” rubber fuel line slipped over the plug ceramic. You position the plug in the head and then rotate the hose as a long flex coupling until you’re threaded in and ready for the socket.
(3) Passenger’s side; the starter needs to come out along with the alternator. Before installing the header, you should use some of the heavy-duty aluminum insulation tape (heating and air item) to wrap the starter wring harness and the connector and wire for the right front wheel ASB sensor. The ABS sensor wiring is on the frame and somewhat close to one of the header tubes. Once this is accomplished, slide the header up from underneath the car. Re-install the spark plugs and plug wires ensuring the wires are clear of the header tubes. The factory plug wire paths are good for the Kooks, just make sure the wires are in their normal path and the 90 degree boots are at the correct angle, so they not touch the header. The alternator and starter go in last. We left off one of the alternator support rods that went to the front header bolt on port #2. The factory alternator bracket and the other support rods (there are several) are more then adequate. Also, the starter was easy to install with the Kooks.
(4) Y-Pipe connection; The factory exhaust pipe (single pipe) behind the y, is 2 ¾”. We cut the factory pipe to length to match the Kooks Y-Pipe outlet which is necked-down to match the factory 2 ¾” pipe. We had a muffler shop swedge (increase the diameter) of the factory pipe for a slip-fit over the end of the Kooks Y-Pipe. The lowest part of the exhaust system is where the Y-Pipe crosses over and I have 3 ¾” ground clearance.
01-30-2005, 09:25 AM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: western, Massachusetts
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
>I have the Jet Hot LT and they are pretty awesome too .
Does the Kooks LT header have a Y pipe with cats for the LT1 ?
BTW Scoggins Dickey is a pretty good company to deal with I spent a lot of $ there and no complaints unlike a certain enine builder
Does the Kooks LT header have a Y pipe with cats for the LT1 ?
BTW Scoggins Dickey is a pretty good company to deal with I spent a lot of $ there and no complaints unlike a certain enine builder
Last edited by bowtiepwr; 01-30-2005 at 09:28 AM.
01-30-2005, 09:54 PM
#15
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Location: near waco tx.
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Re: Kooks LT1 Headers are great!
coating is not for rust. its to contain heat in side the headers and keep the underhood temp down.
there no way i would pay 1000 for a set of headers espeacily non coated. after having jethots and coated theres no way i would have a header without jethot coating.
there no way i would pay 1000 for a set of headers espeacily non coated. after having jethots and coated theres no way i would have a header without jethot coating.