ZBLKHELLRZR

I wonder how many others will chime in over time in regards to Kooks. I don't know if it's worth jumping from FLP's to set of stepped 1 3/4 to 1 7/8's on my 396 but I may try it since I don't like a 2.5 y-pipe. Can't get one built around these parts if anyone was wondering. I would've done that long ago......

TCAL95Z you got any pics? Trying to see what the ground clearance is like.

bdc95ta

Yes TCAL95Z, pics of the oil filter and steering shaft area would be great.
-b

BMAN'S SCZ

I want to see a side shot of the ground clearence!

TCAL95Z

I'll take some pics tonight.
I don't know how to post them. I'll need some help witht that.

The steering shaft is only hitting on the bolt head that connects it to the steering column. This only happened after I installed the BMR K member.

For the oil filter, as long as you use the AC Delco you'll have no problems
but a K&N touched the header and a regular Fram only gave about 3/8" clearance which didn't appear to be a lot of room but might work.

nateh

I've been running with my Kook's now for a week or so. I did an oil change with a standard-sized Purolator filter. It is a tight fit, but I was able to make the change. One thing you'll want is a strap-style filter wrench, preferably one with a flexible strap. It's tough to get a tight enough hold on the filter to hand-tighten it correctly, and it's difficult to get a regular filter wrench between the bottom of the filter and one primary. A slightly shorter filter would make all the difference. Other than that, these headers are very good. I've got a stock K-member and have no difficulty with the steering shaft hitting.

Really though, the plug clearance is one big reason I've been so happy with them. Plug changes are sooooo much easier than before on my car.

LT4383

Bolted mine on last night, these things are awesome!!!! Worth every penny. The drivers side header is real close to the oil level sender, but I'm also using the bigger Canton oil pan. kooks

CDE

I have the stepped Kooks as well and will be bolting them up to a 383 with a DP kit on it jetted for 250 shot, just waiting on the heads/intake/cam from Futral to come in. I am glad to hear alot of positive things about them. I am kinda nervous about the tru duals I was going to run. I hope it can be done. I am taking it to Lanes in Tx, if anybody can do it, he can. And I will be using a BMR K member so I hope I dont run into any problems with that either.
They look great sitting in my spare parts room though!!!

TCAL95Z

I took a grinder to the top of bolt for the steering shaft tonight and just took off the ridge and a little more. It appears to have fixed the clearance problem. I need to take a test drive to be sure but I can turn the steering wheel to wheel without any interference.

CDE

Keep me posted

bdc95ta

tcal95z, I'll host em for ya if you want send them to brandondavid@houston.rr.com. Also thanks for the tech info. and not just coming on here and saying, yeah there great headers!!
-brandon

WHYTLIE

I just test fit my 1 3/4" stepped into 1 7/8" Kooks (without any smog fittings) and 3.5" collectors.

I have a '96 Camaro 6-spd with a PA racing K-member, solid roller 396", etc.

First problem was that one of the primaries hit my AC Delco PF 44 (long, race filter) so I removed that. Then it hit the low oil level sending unit because I am running the road race Canton oil pan. Removed the Low Oil level sending unit and it bolted up fine. Plenty of clearance with the steering linkage as well.

But now I have to figure out what oil pan to run, and I'm going to remote mount my oil filter so I can still use a good quality, large oil filter.

Going to call Canton to see what they can do about a "drag race" LT1 oil pan.

Also, on the pass side, the 3.5" collector tubing is VERY close to the small "bracket" on the floorpan. A small screw used to be there, to hold a piece of the (long discarded) heat shielding in place. I think I'll cut that "bracket" off the body for extra clearance.

I am going to try and track down some 3.5" Aerospace V clamps and flanges to tig weld onto the collectors so I can easily bolt up (and remove) a true dual/H-pipe setup. True dual 3.5" exhaust with some Borla or Spintech mufflers... guess it's time for a trailer...

Oh yeah, I am going to get these coated by Jet Hot as well. Get them done in the Black or OEM Grey coloring so they don't have that "bling-bling" look to them.

Another question. The Kooks come with the good sealing "green" gaskets that are cut to near perfection with the header flange. Only thing is, once they start to leak, they blow out fast. And they leave that sticky, green residue which is a PITA to clean up. I'd rather run my trusty old Fel Pro header gaskets, but don't know how to "port" them to match the headers. Any other ideas on header gaskets? I know someone makes a "graphite" inset header gasket that you can "port" but I don't know how well they hold up to temps. I'm also running nitrous.

Hope this insite was a little helpful, and thanks for any and all help you can provide.

nateh

Amen to the paper gasket comment. Mine leaked on one side. I ended up putting in a Fel-Pro and it took care of the problem. Since I used the Fel-Pro as the template in porting the exhaust ports I figured no gasket porting would be necessary. Even though it doesn't match the header primary sizes, it isn't blocking flow into the primary.

My headers didn't hit the oil filter, but changing filters is difficult with many standard replacement filters. It can be done, but getting the filter off is much more difficult. I switched to the AC-Delco replacement filter. It's shorter than the standard filters and I can get my filter wrench around it. With that filter, oil changes are MUCH easier. I could see a definite problem if you wanted to use the deep filter.

WHYTLIE

Well the Kooks I have have some "port" matched gaskets that are unlike ANY other gasket I have ever seen. The exhaust ports on the primaries are so hogged out that the piping goes AROUND the holes for the header bolts. A standard Fel Pro header gasket gets in the way here. Also between the two siamesed exhaust ports.

As for the oil filter... do you have the straight 1 3/4" or the stepped headers? I imagine the stepped headers take up more room being that they are made with a larger (albiet small difference) diameter piping. And the fact that I am running the 3.5" collector.

nateh

I got the same green paper gaskets, and they are ported to the primary shape. They perfectly match. However, the header flange sports a much larger opening than the head port. My point was that even though the Fel-Pro gasket is smaller in diameter than the header flange primary opening, it isn't smaller than the exit of the port on the head, so it's not impeding flow in any way.

I have the straight 3" system, so you're going to have more clearance problems than I have. The short filter sure helps.

Good luck!

kevm14

Any thoughts on how the CIA mids would do against these long tubes in the 300-350rwhp range? I'm thinking long tubes are unnecessary at this power level.