"White Knight"

Which LE heads are you using? He has the LE1, LE2, and the LE3. I am at a cross-road here. My motor has 125,000miles and is getting weak. So I either buy heads for this motor. or just start the bottom end of the other motor. I really don't have enough to money to build a whole motor. Or should i just buy some really good heads that i plan on using on the 396 i am going to have built? If you put new heads on an old motor with worn rings what happens to the head? Do you damage anything like burn valves or anything? I just want to hear what you guys have to say about it. Wait or buy the heads and build the short block, while i have fun with the heads?

slp223

i dont know the diffrence between le1, le2, le3 and so on stage xx does not mean a thing buy the best he has to offer and you will have a great set of head to do what ever you want with. Good parts are easy to sell if you ever need to. I have learned a lot the hard way here is some good advice doing it right the first time is cheaper then doing half a$$ the first and doing it right the second time.

bunker

I think the only difference between his le1,2,3 isn't the porting, its things like valve job, valves, type of springs used but the porting is the same quality.

matt.

"White Knight"

That's not the way i took it. Here is what he sent me.

Below is a basic run down on the head and cam packages. The best package will depend on HP goals, budget, rear gears, stall size, future plans, emissions, driving style, etc., etc, A phone call would be best to make sure that we can talk through these things and get a package that will work like you are wanting it to and also make sure that you have the complimenting parts to make each set up work.
The 2 cars that are running the LE2 heads and cam package have all of the mods, good tuning, etc. and made 409 RWHP (A4) and 415 RWHP (M6). I have 6 others waiting top be assembled and dyno #'s will slowly come in on them. I have 1 LE1 cam and heads package in a car and it made 399 RWHP with an A4, stall, 3.42's, LT's etc. He ran 11.60's at 117 MPH but the car WORKS and the 60 ft (1.66) has A LOT to do with the E.T. The MPH shows that the car is making power though. This kinda performance was AMAZING (E.T. MPH and Dyno #'s) and I and not sure if this is what everyone with this set up can expect or if just has it tuned PERFECT. Either way, it is a good idea of what the combination CAN do with the right stuff.

I offer cam and head packager from $1100 to $1700 depending on driving style, emissions, RPM range, budget, etc.

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LE1 cam pulls from 2000 to 6300 RPM and should make 370-390 RWHP with matching heads, 30 lb injectors, 52 TB, 1 3/4 LTs, No cats, good tuning, etc. The heads are ported using stock valves, performance valve job, back cut valves, CM 612 springs, retainers and locks, milling, cleaning and assembly. These heads flow about 255/180 with a 195 cc intake port and stock LT1's flow about 215/150 with a 170 cc intake port.

Heads and cam are $1100 (plus shipping) and will pass emissions with good tuning. This has the RPM range of the Hot Cam or CC 305 cam but makes more HP and TQ through out the entire RPM range. This will work
with any gear and converter but the track times will be better with a stall and some gear.

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LE2 cam pulls from 2200 to 6500 RPM and should make 400-420 RWHP with matching heads, 30-36 lb injectors, 52-58 mm TB, 1 3/4 LT's, no cats, GOOD tuning, etc. The heads are ported and machined for larger Ferrea 2.00/1.56 valves, Comp 987 dbl springs, TITANIUM 10 degree retainers, locks, locators, milling, cleaning and assembly. These will flow about 270/190 with a 205 cc intake port.

Heads and cam are $1600 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This has the RPM range of the CC 306 cam but will make more HP and TQ at peak and across the board. The REAL difference will be the LE2 cam will make TQ in the 2500 RPM range and the cc 306 doesn't start until way past this. It will make more HP than the cc 306 at ALL RPM's.

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LE3 cam pulls from 2600 to 6800 RPM in a 350 (2300 to 6500 RPM in a 383) and should make 410 to 430 RWHP with matching heads, 36-42 lb injectors, 58 TB or mono blade, GOOD tuning, etc, etc, etc. These are the same heads from above but with Comp 977 springs instead of the 987's. These are stronger and will also need Comp R lifters to handle the spring pressure.

Heads and cam are $1700 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This cam is similar to the GM 847 cam but makes about 10 more HP at peak and starts making HP sooner. Makes more HP and TQ across the board. Needs gear and converter to work well in a 350. Pretty much a racing cam for the 350 or a good street cam that will act like the LE2 in a 383.

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Everyone has a different opinion about what is streetable and what a safe RPM limit is for their engine.

I would suggest a DYNO TUNE to make sure everything is optimized but the 3 people mentioned in this e-mail have mail order tunes and are doing pretty well. They might get more with a DYNO TUNE though. A DYNO TUNE is pretty expensive and tough to find some one that can do it as well. This is why most get a mail order tune from MADWOLF or PCM FOR LESS. Both can be found on CamaroZ28.com.

If you are looking for just cylinder heads and no cam, the heads are priced at . . . . .

$750 for the LE1 heads only
$1250 for the LE2 heads only
$1300 for the LE3 heads only

Give me a call and I can help you pick a combo that you will be happy with.

Lloyd Elliott------------------------972-617-5671------------------------Red Oak Tx 75154
NightTrain66@msn.com





I need to know is there anything bad about putting new heads on a really worn motor though? I don't want to pull them off and have all burnt valves when i get my new motor. Maybe i'm just worried of getting them dirty........lol