Injuneer

Yes, the voltage needs to be measured across the wires that connect to the TPS sensor, not to anytthing else. The center blue wire is the signal wire. The black wire is the ground. Checking between the two, you MUST get 0.20 V (not 0.02V) or more for the PCM to baseline the 0% TPP. While you are checking things, make sure you have a constant +5V between the gray wire (reference voltage) and the black wire.

Get the closed throttle voltage correct before you start looking at the WOT voltage. You might want to read below, to see why you may have two wires crossed.... since I had a very similar experience.

TPP is important because the PCM looks at the TPP to determine when to switch the PCM from closed loop (14.7:1) programming to power enrichment (PE) mode = what the PCM interprets as "WOT" and switches to the much richer target A/F ratio required to produce max torque and HP.

Do not assume anything is wired correctly.... when I got my stroker back from the shop - a shop that I'm convinced could wire the space shuttle - they could not get the TPS voltage adjusted to what I thought was correct. With my MoTeC ECU, its no big deal, since you manually baseline the 0% TPS voltage while programming, then set the 100% voltage, to give the ECU the range it has to cover. The MoTeC was happy, but the TPS was also paralleled into my stock PCM, to control the IAC motor (MoTeC could not handle the GM "stepper" motor, at that time). I had problems with idle. They had slotted the TPS sensor trying to correct it, and swapped out a couple spare sensors just to check. After I stared at the wiring long enough, measuring all the combinations of TPS resistance and voltage, and after asking Shoebox for a photo of his stock/virgin TPS sensor wiring, I realized the shop had switched the gray and blue wires while removing my old NOS electronic WOT switch from the wiring. The TPS voltage under those conditions was only ranging from about 1.2V - 3.0V. Swapped the blue and gray wires, and all my troubles went away.

thebufenator

ah okay.
Well that should help me.......

I will check the wiring, but I doubt its wrong.......I removed the harness and re-isntalled it....didn't mess with anything....

Anyways, not sure what the TPS voltage is now, but the TPP reads 0% at idle now, and at WOT it reads 75%.

yesterday when I drove it, with it reading 11%, the idle was pretty bad.
Now it seemed to idle around 950ish just fine, lumpity lumping away.
vacuum seems to be better aswell, as I could lock the front brakes pretty easily.

I will do some more measuring tommorrow, and find out what my vacuum and TPS is.

Assuming my TPS wiring is fine, any idea what would cause it to only go to 75% when at WOT? The only thing I can think of is a bad sensor, but I am not experianced at all.....

Thanks for all the assistance so far

96flame

Are you using the pedal when checking WOT or opening the TB by hand? Make sure that the throttle blades are openning all the way when using the pedal.

thebufenator

opening the blades all the way.......with my hand.

But now its not running fine.........sounds like a spark issue....
It will start fine.....then about 10 seconds later the idle will start breaking up, no matter waht I do it stops firing....
blub blub - dies -blub blub - dies

Its also popping a code, so I am going to check that out before checking my plugs.

EDIT

the code it was popping was DTC 22, low TPS voltage. If I raise it any higher, freescan shows that my TPP is greater then 0%. Is this an issue with freescan, or can I possibly have some hidden problem here?
Would this code contribute to the car cutting out like it was?

thebufenator

Okay, still having TPS issues.....
With the TPS voltage any higher then 0.02 volts, the TPP is higher then 0

Here are two scans I got:
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/...rent=first.jpg
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/...urrent=sec.jpg

THis TPS thing is really wack......
The scans show my TPS voltage and TPP.
with my TPS at .02v, I pop a code, DTC 22, for low TPS.
If its any higher, the TPP is 1% or greater

thebufenator

anybody have idea's about the TPS / TPP problem here?

Dave1980

any update??

thebufenator

Not with the TPS.
I was unable to work with the car over the weekend due to having a drill weekend with the guard and school.

I will be going back on thursday......updates then :P

93z383

Wow, looks just like all the other posts I did about a year ago when I put my LE3 package in my 383...OK so Here are my thoughts...First, Just take a leap and buy a new TPS, and MAP sensor. Keep the old ones just incase, First we need to clear the TPS fault code, If im right you had the car running with either the TPS unpluged and moved the blades OR you removed the tps and ran the car moving the Blades and it through that code, So lets get that cleared first, Next with datamaster you can see the TPS voltage with only the IGN on and car not running, IF you want, remove the TPS from the throttle body and move it through a minor range to verify you are getting a rise and fall in range of voltage, then get it to 0% with the TPS removed from the TB, open the blades a decent amountwith the set screw, start car, watch the IAC counts with the TPS at 0% you can be relatively sure the computer is using the closed TPS idle step table. Which is what you want. Next you should see 0 on the IAC counts because all the air is coming through the blades, start to back off the TB set screw until you get the counts to stay in the 10-20 range while idling with no ac or accessories on, in closed loop mode, if you can keep it running that long. Now if the TPS is slotted correctly turn car off, keep ign on and reinstall TPS watch as the voltage changes and if at all possible keep it at 0%, if you cant its possible you slotted in the wrong direction and should hollow out the wholes in the other direction.

OK if you can get that done, tell me how it goes and we will go to the hole drilling process.......