Javier97Z28

You have your car tuned for 30lb injectors but still have the stockers in it? Not so good...

Kain

Its a number to see how much weather plays a part on performance. Instead of whatever altitude your track is at, your car performed like how it would run at 4229 feet above sea level.

I agree. Get those 30#'ers in ASAP.

Daniel6718

agreed..i think its running lean 100% of the time...because the computer thinks your gettin more fuel but your not...id say thats why you so down on hp...with just a cam stall gears and tune i run 12.4's full weight...now im a bit lighter

NightTrain66

first thing is to get bigger inj and good tuning. This will allow you to make the power you need to run 115-118 MP in the 1/4 mile. Even though the car "feels" like it is pulling hard, it will feel MUCH stronger when the injectors are installed and is supplying enough fuel. Gte someone to dyno tune the car and play with timing and fuel to get some real power from the set up.

That will at least take care of the "power" part of it.

A good track time is gonna be a result of vehicle weight and traction. The cars that run well will have 2 things . . . . . lighter weight and a good 60 ft.

1.70-1.80 60 fts are doable in a 6 speed car with stock 7.5 rear end. Get some Pete Z bars (from Thunder racing) and some sticky tires and remove the front sway bar. This will help alot. Every tenth you shave off your 60 ft will result in a 1.5-2.0 reduction in 1/4 mile times. If you are peddling the car in 2nd gear and can't keep it nailed, you could see even more time knocked off.

Get the parts mentioned and practice launching until the 60 ft is best and lauch that way from now on. You can get all kinds of other suspension parts to help the car 60 ft better also but the parts I mentioned will be the first ones to get you rolling.

If you shave 4 tenths off your 60 ft, you will be 6-8 tenths faster in the 1/4 mile. Just think about the A4/stalled cars that get a 1.50 (or better) 60 ft and then you understand why they are faster at the track even though the 6 speed is better for auto cross and can be more fun to drive on the street.

Every 100 lbs you remove will result in 1 tenth also. The faster cars do have some weight reduction and you will see cars weigh anywhere from 3400-3200 lbs (with driver) running good times. A few are even below 3000 lbs. These cars require alot less power to run fast. If you do not KNOW how much your car weight, get on the scales at the track. A full weight F body is not light and it will allow you to compare to other cars if they have weighed their car also to see how they compare.

Lastly, weather is a factor and I doubt if anyone is happy with track times this time of year. A cool October/November night will result in a good reduction in ET as well. Focus on the inj, tuning, traction and weight and by then the weather will be cooler and you will be happier with the results.

Hopefully this gives you a few things to work on.

Tricked-Out-Toy

Thanks alot, some great info in there! ill post up the next time I run..

Gripenfelter

You're way lean. You're going to blow something soon without 30# injectors.

Tricked-Out-Toy

Update. long story short bent a push rod, colapsed a lifter, last weekend I replaces the pushrods with Hy-techs and picked up some Morels from brett along with a holley 58mm TB and 30# injectors. I have to say, everyone who said I was running lean has to be wrong, I pulled the plugs and they were blacker than any plug Ive ever seen in my life! I couldnt believe the car ran on those! so now that I just put bigger injectors in, im running just as rich if not more. I drove the car a couple hours last weekend and I can already feel the plugs fouling. what gives? I know Ion knows what he is doing and my setup isnt that uncommon so what else could my rich condition be from? I currently have my fuel pressure set at 43psi, and valves are adjusted to 1/8-1/4 turn. I have an exhaust leak but its back by the mufflers and I made sure the intake was clean and sealed properly. any ideas?

SS RRR

You need to get it scanned and dyno tuned. Not knocking Ion's work, but a mail order tune will get you in the ballpark on most applications. Every applicatoins reacts to modifcation differently.
As far as the 24's go you may have been running an acceptible mixture at part throttle. I believe everyone who said anything about that was referring to WOT. Any ideas why the pushrod is bent? I mean this sounds serious enough to pull the head to see if you damaged a valve and piston.

NightTrain66

The 24 lb inj will not supply enough fuel to feed your engine at high RPM. They can feed the car at idle, cruising and even WOT up until a certain RPM (3500, 4000 or even 4500 RPM) but they will NOT feed your engine once it starts making anywhere near the power it should make.

You are looking at the plugs after cruising, idling, etc and the black plugs are just a result of the current tune (bad or misadjusted TPS, O2's, maf, etc, etc)

If you installed the 30 lb inj and did not do any tuning for them, do not crank the car until you get at least a mail order tune for the new parts you have added. Otherwise the computer is telling the inj to spray the same amount of time that the stock inj was spraying and it is giving WAY too much fuel.

Make sure and keep the fuel pressure at stock PSI and inform the tuner of this and ANY changes to the fuel pressure. Most are gonna sugguest the fuel pressure to remain stock.

Sweetred95ta

I'm not understanding. You said you had stock injectors and tuning for 30#ers? And that it was running rich? If this is the case, the car is only going to run richer with the 30#ers. And I don't mean a little richer, a lot richer. And, there might be something wrong. The car shouldn't have ran rich, period. It should have ran lean and you're lucky you didn't do any damage. You need a dyno tune with a wideband setup.

RealQuick

stock gears + bad weather = $hit mph

Get 3.73's atleast, dynotune and better weather and you'll be ~116mph no problem.

Javier97Z28

As noted by SS RRR you need to find out why you bent a pushrod first. Did you have a rocker come loose on you (that's happened to me)... did you drop a valve and slap a piston? (leakdown test is in order)...

Once you get that sorted out, it's time to get that thing on a dyno and see what the hell is going on with your tune.

My mail order tune was close enough with my LE2 cam/head setup (before my shortblock went) to crack 11's the first time out.

SStrokerAce

Javier, could be that it's a hardened PR those things are like staws especially with any LE stuff.

Bret

Javier97Z28

True enough, which is why I'm now running those sexy Comp Hi-Tech's

Tricked-Out-Toy

SS, i checked my compression and everything looked good, if I had a bent valve I woud have seen a difference between the other cylinders. judging from the part it looks like the lifter colapses caused the push rod to come out of the rocker pocket and from the "impact" load it just bent. I can see damage around the pocket on the rocker but other than that the valve train looked fine, the springs look good the valve had a very small "nick" on the side but that was it, I replaced the one rocker ($50 next day from Jegs) and swapped out the lifters and pushrods re adjusted and the car runs great, not stumbling or rough idling, non of the common symptoms of a bent valve.

Llyod, The tune I have in it now was originally set for a 58mm tb and 30# injectors so the tune IS set for what I have in there NOW, before I was running a stock TB and 24# injecctors on a tune that was supose to be for the 58mm TB and 30# injectors. hope that clears that up.