badass383

Let's do a little math, shall we. Since the leak you've done 5K miles. The leak started over a year ago. So 30K minus 5K = 25K. The time frame is 2.5 years minus over a year. Let's say over a year is 1.5 years. Therefore, 2.5 years minus 1.5 years is 1 YEAR

So in 1 year you managed to put 25K miles on that engine. AND you're bitchin cause it leaks. No no, not hard miles. When the average is 12K to 15K per year. No, not hard miles at all.

How many oil changes have you done during all this mileage? Did you do the first one after 1K miles to remove the asperities?

I noticed you side stepped 2 times where someone asked why you didn't even check the PCV during the past "over a year".

As Fox sports would say "c'mon man".

Most of us are not happy when someone jumps to conclusions and trashes someone else.

Top Speed

I've side-stepped HOW? I already mentioned I didn't check the entire PCV system.

Yes, I DID do an oil change after 1000 miles. The car has been run with either Mobil 1 5W-30 or Royal Purple 5W-30.

You're right, "c'mon, man..."

Top Speed

Okay, since for some reason I'm all of a sudden a discredited liar, according to this last person who could throw accusations but offer nothing to this thread, I am standing out at the car right this moment, and the pcv valve is working.

bw_hunter

What is the purpose of this thread? If it's to bash some engine builder, well, that obviously isn't going to work. If it's to find and fix the problem, let's concentrate on that.

Enough with the 'math' and 'discredited liar' comments...how does that crap help anyone? Let's talk through the steps in diagnosing the issue and then propose solutions depending on that diagnosis. That way, someone who does a search finds something useful. Since the first thing we ask when someone asks a question is "Did you do a search?", that makes sense, right?

Top Speed, you've gotten good suggestions from people like Injuneer and Speedy. Check 'em out and reply back.....things like a leakdown test tell us a lot.

Top Speed

Uh, that's what the purpose of the thread is...to diagnose an issue. Intentions aren't to bash anyone, but I'm not going to hide the fact that it isn't of my doing, either. Next step is the leakdown test...

bw_hunter

Since you don't know what the problem is yet, you can't assume that you, or the builder, is blameless. Focus on the diagnostics and worry about blame later...if ever.

Top Speed

What do leak-down tests normally run, and is this something that could be done pretty much by any garage?

bw_hunter

A leak down test is similar to a compression test. There is a specific tool with air pressure guages on it. The idea is that you pressurize the cylinder and measure how long it holds the pressure before it "leaks down". The tool is inexpensive but I don't have an idea how much a garage would charge to run it....maybe some of the other viewers can help...

Does the car burn oil? I'm thinking that excessive blow-by, which is combustion gasses getting past the rings and pressurizing the crankcase, should also lead to visible oil burning....

Top Speed

No burning oil, no smell of burning oil, no excessive oil consumption, no loss in oil pressure according to factory gauge, no tapping, no loss of power, no decrease in fuel mileage, nothing out of the ordinary with the antifreeze, no hard starting or tapping upon start-up, etc.

I'm at a loss. Basically, everything just points to a crap build with seals leaking everywhere...

Dunno what my next option is after a leak down test. Any suggestions?

Sigfrid

Sorry about all your issues there. I can tell you that my remanufactured LT1 (by a reputable racing shop) started leaking from the front cover on DAY 1. My oil pan is also leaking and I have put less than 3000 miles on the car. I also had to remove the intake manifold and can tell you that it was no easy task to put it back together without a leak. My expectations for an LT1 are that this thing will never be leak free. I amy be wrong but then again, my driveway is there to prove it. good luck with your troubleshooting. I would start reading up on how to seal the intake manifold as that is the hardest. You are stating that it is leaking from everywhere so I take it it is leaking from the intake, the valve covers, the front coer and the oil pan, right?

bw_hunter

Nah...this isn't true. LT1's are no more prone to leak than a regular small block Chevy.

A leak from the front cover on day 1 indicates improper assembly. Even reputable racing engine builders make mistakes.

Oil pan leaks are usually either improper tightened distorting the pan or over-torquing the oil level sensor (they're plastic and they crack, allowing oil to get out). The fact that you had a front cover leak and a pan leak tells me they cut the gasket to get the cover on and you're suffering the consequences.

To the Original Poster, are you sure it's leaking from all the seals or is there just oil everywhere? A leaking intake manifold seal will get oil everywhere and fool you into thinking things are worse than they are. Try this:

1) Pull the car up onto some ramps.
2) Spray the OPTI cover with WD-40 and then cover it with aluminum foil. You'll have to get it from both top and bottom.
3) Apply an aerosol engine degreaser to the entire engine...keeping away from the OPTI as much as possible...concentrating on the back of the engine, essentially in the area between the intake manifold and the bell housing. Wait 1/2 hour.
4) Rinse off the cleaner with a hose...not a power washer. Do NOT direct the water stream toward the OPTI.
5) After the water runs off, pull the aluminum foil off the OPTI.
6) Start the engine on the ramps and run it a while, looking for oil leaks. If you don't see any dripping oil, shut down the engine and reach behind the intake manifold and touch the block....if it's oily it's simply the intake manifold leak. That's easy to fix, and fix right. No special tools at all, just soime knowledge and patience.

Top Speed

You are correct on all accounts. I talked to a shop today and they said a leak down test was not necessary, as there is no loss in power or poor running quality, and that it's probably just a pain in the *** of a leak to find...

bw_hunter

Hardly. In fact, he's incorrect on most.

You'll find the leak..just follow my recommendation....

Injuneer

Odd.... I've owned my LT1 for 16+ years, and the garage floor is still clean. Never had an oil leak on the stock engine - ~65K miles, 6 years - or the stroker - no idea how many miles on it over the last 10 years, but its certainly stressed significantly more with the 300-shot than when it was a stocker.

Leaking rings will not cause a "sensible" loss of power, and even if it did, the loss would be so gradual, you wouldn't notice it. And may not cause any imbalance in engine firing, if all the cylinders are experiencing heavy blowby. Apparently you have chosen to ignore the issue of possible crankcase pressure, and the fact it can blow oil out of all the seals. Its actually very easy to check.... all the symptoms are there. But I guess its easier to "talk to a shop".... and ignore what people are telling you here.

Good luck!

Z28SORR

A leak down check at a competent shop shouldn't be any more then an hour labor charge.
Following "Hunters" advice isn't going to cost much and if you are "leaking all over the place" you can then still do the leak down check.
My 97 LT1 is as dry as a bone.