Lt1 to 383
#2
Re: Lt1 to 383
I'd worry more about why you want to go to a 383 before you try to figure out what is required and how much work/cost it will be.
Are you just wanting more power? Are you planning on reving high? Are you going NA or spraying? ETC.
Are you just wanting more power? Are you planning on reving high? Are you going NA or spraying? ETC.
#5
Re: Lt1 to 383
That's a little misleading... sure thats how it was done originally but these days it doesn't make sense, there are many 3.75" cranks on the market today. If you need a rotating assembly anyway, and are looking for more power, a 383 stroker can be built for marginally higher costs than a 350/355 (not including proper supporting mods for higher displacement, head porting, cam, etc etc
#6
Re: Lt1 to 383
That would get you to 383 but wouldn't work on that alone. The pistons have the wrong compression height for that stroke and would collide with the heads on the first revolution. You need pistons with the pin placed closer to the top...
In addition, I think the 400 had different size main bearings.
Best path is to get a rotating assembly designed to yield the right bore and stroke.....
In addition, I think the 400 had different size main bearings.
Best path is to get a rotating assembly designed to yield the right bore and stroke.....
#7
Re: Lt1 to 383
Sorry for the bad spelling and punctuation. I use a phone to post and its a pita. You can purchase a balanced kit starting around 600. I have no experience with these kits but I see them all over ebay. I would think u could buy a long block with a decent warranty for just a little bit more then you could build one. That's the problem with building your own if you screw up nobody pays for it. Most high performance shops will give you some sort of warranty with their engines. All depends on what you are looking for
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dbusch22
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10-31-2016 11:09 AM